My quick write up on installing these since there's no instructions.
You have to take all the mounting brackets off the old headlamps and put them on the new ones. In my case I had to put my bracket in the lower spot as that was where the hole was on my header panel.


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Once mounted they will all look like this. Be careful locking the bulbs in and wiggle them around some to make sure they are in tight. The included clip thing doesn't do a good job of holding the bulb inside the housing.

As you can see the projector headlamps are still not hooked up. Last night me and my friend got them hooked up and let me tell you they were terrible to install. Here's the harness.


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It was a lot of guesswork. The part that took us the longest was definitely making the bigger hole through the grommet so that the switch and wires could go into the cab. We wired them all up and the switches LED stays on green. No matter if your truck is turned off. I don't think it's pulling much power cause I left my truck shut off all night and it started up fine this morning. But the projectors are not all that bright, to be honest. My fogs are brighter.


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But there it is. One of the wires on the harness was red and didn't have a clip on the end so we could connect it directly to the battery easily so we just put the wire in contact and screwed it tight to hold that in.

No one had anything posted about installing these headlights so I figured I'd help people in the future. Any more questions and I can take some more pictures or explain some things.
Overall these headlights are nicer than stock but I would rather have 1pc eBay ones or diamond cuts. For 39.99 plus shipping I can't complain much though. If you're looking for headlights make sure you search around cause you can find them cheaper someplaces than others.

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1993 Ford Ranger Splash 4.0
Regeared to 3.73's, Ultra 15x7 rims, 235/70/15 Yokohama Geolandar AT/S tires.
Mods: plastidipped grill and header panel, Throttle cable mod, aftermarket projector headlight and corners, Alpine CDA-105 Headunit, 2 MTX TS82 8" subs in trick boxes, strobe lights on front of truck. K&N drop in filter, 2.5" exhaust after catalytic converter to a Thrush Welded muffler, pipe exits at stock location.

Those look pretty bad IMO. I would have gone with clear heads and corners

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1994 Ford Ranger 4x4 extended cab 4.0 OHV
4" Rough Country lift
3" PA Body Lift
33x12.50x15 Goodyear Duratracs
15x8 Black MB 72 wheels
Red LED Interior
Throttle Mod
Stainless Brake Lines
Build Thread
SOLD

I like em everyone else seems to like them, if I do anything more it'll be headlight covers themselves.. I wasn't gonna do clear because clear just looks dumb to me

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1993 Ford Ranger Splash 4.0
Regeared to 3.73's, Ultra 15x7 rims, 235/70/15 Yokohama Geolandar AT/S tires.
Mods: plastidipped grill and header panel, Throttle cable mod, aftermarket projector headlight and corners, Alpine CDA-105 Headunit, 2 MTX TS82 8" subs in trick boxes, strobe lights on front of truck. K&N drop in filter, 2.5" exhaust after catalytic converter to a Thrush Welded muffler, pipe exits at stock location.

You mean Not At All. My previous pair held in just fine.(same thing but chrome)
But these ones dont work for shit!

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Oh and they look good.

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I think those look good, kinda gives me ideas for my ranger. lol

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Do you have yours mounted in there a special way at all?

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Go on eBay and look at the 1pc ones. That's what I would suggest getting

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1993 Ford Ranger Splash 4.0
Regeared to 3.73's, Ultra 15x7 rims, 235/70/15 Yokohama Geolandar AT/S tires.
Mods: plastidipped grill and header panel, Throttle cable mod, aftermarket projector headlight and corners, Alpine CDA-105 Headunit, 2 MTX TS82 8" subs in trick boxes, strobe lights on front of truck. K&N drop in filter, 2.5" exhaust after catalytic converter to a Thrush Welded muffler, pipe exits at stock location.

Nope. Lol just hanging there. I actually for got about it till this thread.
Ill break out the gorilla glue tomorrow. A few dabs should hold them temporally.

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this is bad ass, i would like to do that to my truck. how long did it taje you to install this?

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1997 ford ranger 4x4, reg cab with a 3.0 5 spd,

Uh about 4 hours altogether, two on separate nights. Would have been faster if we knew what we were doing on swapping them. But the hardest part is drilling through the grommet to run the switch and wire, hooking the lights up was cake

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1993 Ford Ranger Splash 4.0
Regeared to 3.73's, Ultra 15x7 rims, 235/70/15 Yokohama Geolandar AT/S tires.
Mods: plastidipped grill and header panel, Throttle cable mod, aftermarket projector headlight and corners, Alpine CDA-105 Headunit, 2 MTX TS82 8" subs in trick boxes, strobe lights on front of truck. K&N drop in filter, 2.5" exhaust after catalytic converter to a Thrush Welded muffler, pipe exits at stock location.

HEELLLPPP! I recently just got the same headlights, and have no clue as to how to wire them, thanks to them not coming with directions! Did you wire these into your headlight switch? That it what I want to do, so the projector comes on with brights. Any help would be much appreciated!

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'97 | Splash | Extended cab | 4.0 V6 | Painted Valve Covers | Painted Manifolds | 5 Speed | 4x4 | Billet Grille | Headlights | Flowmaster super 10| Power Acoustik Head Unit | Daystar 2'' Leveling Kit |Power Windows | Power Locks | Throttle Cable Mod | Explorer Power Seats | Explorer Console | Removed jump seat for storage | 255/70R15 General Grabbers AT2 | 2009 YZ250F |

I have the same ones, I took the headlight assembly out and unscrewed the projector price then unscrewed the screws hold that price together and there is a price of metal blocking the full lighting potential making them way brighter, sorry if all this sounds confusing

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93' ranger, 3.0 5 speed, purple, regular cab long bed, 03' rear bumper, 06' mirrors, 03 mustang seats, 235/75R15 maxxis big horn mud grips, 03' stock rims painted, 2'' leveling pucks, and all new bearings, seals, brakes and 3.73 gears in the rear.