POR-15 questions..... - Page 2

CodyL · #16 07-12-2011, 05:53 PM

Might have to try this stuff out too, heard it works like a charm. Damn Illinois-DOT salts the hell out of the roads here

knightmare1015 · #17 07-13-2011, 12:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Logan03CO

Yeah if you use one of their products like 'ChassisCoat' (Semi-Gloss Black) or 'Blackcote' (Gloss Black) over the POR-15 base coat you will be just fine.

The product doesn't last long once the container is exposed to air. Because of this, I always buy the smaller 4oz cans so once I open it...I try to use it all. The website says the 4oz version will cover about 12 square feet.

I find I waste less that way even though it costs slightly more to buy it in the smaller containers.

They've got 2 versions of clear top coat that even covers and protects those 2 products as well. One of them has a slight shine to it but it's a real deep luster to it, the other you can't even look at in direct sunlight. But I too find that the 4 oz. can would be best suited for me so I can do one section at a time and I can always put some plastic wrapping over the can before put the lid back on for storage so it won't seal to the can if I need some later.

Quote:

Originally Posted by CodyL

Might have to try this stuff out too, heard it works like a charm. Damn Illinois-DOT salts the hell out of the roads here

VA does to. But don't they use a sand and salt mixture in IL though? The last time I was there they did but it's been years since I have been there though. After I seen all of the equipment and materials used before the guy done his live demo up close and knew for sure it wasn't rigged and seen how well the stuff performed, I was sold on it myself.

Airtruksrus · #18 07-13-2011, 01:44 PM

I've had a chance to use it and didn't read the part in the instructions about bonding the can lid permanently if any got on the seal. Had to move it to other containers but the stuff works great as long as there is a clean bondable surface, impossible to remove and sands well, super hard. Using it to prep rusted and oxidized metal on my daughters car before getting the acrylic enamel laid down. Won't have to worry about rust on her car for a long time and would highly recommend as a primary undercoat.

knightmare1015 · #19 07-13-2011, 03:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Airtruksrus

I've had a chance to use it and didn't read the part in the instructions about bonding the can lid permanently if any got on the seal. Had to move it to other containers but the stuff works great as long as there is a clean bondable surface, impossible to remove and sands well, super hard. Using it to prep rusted and oxidized metal on my daughters car before getting the acrylic enamel laid down. Won't have to worry about rust on her car for a long time and would highly recommend as a primary undercoat.

I was amazed at how much stuff they actually have to offer now. They gave me a 35 page catalog of their products that they have. Basicly what I was told was I can do my entire truck and not spend no more than $800 bucks max, and 10 or more years down the road it would like like it did the day I used the stuff. Which is indeed kool.

Lee_T413 · #20 07-13-2011, 06:13 PM

i just last weekend did my frame. pulled the bed and did the underside of there. i basically did everywhere that had metal underneath. then, on top of that i did a top coat of rubberized undercoating (not that it needed it) to ensure its durability, and to touch up any spots i could not reach or missed with a paint brush. it really does dry to a rock hard finish, i could not chip it with a hammer, you have to grind it away if you were to get rid of it.

knightmare1015 · #21 07-13-2011, 06:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 00 FlareSide Ranger

i just last weekend did my frame. pulled the bed and did the underside of there. i basically did everywhere that had metal underneath. then, on top of that i did a top coat of rubberized undercoating (not that it needed it) to ensure its durability, and to touch up any spots i could not reach or missed with a paint brush. it really does dry to a rock hard finish, i could not chip it with a hammer, you have to grind it away if you were to get rid of it.

About how long does it take to apply it and let it cure to it's rock hard finish? The reason I ask is because they have several different amounts of time listed in the catalog, and the dude that did the live demo had a small portable oven which he used to speed up the curing process. We were there for about an hour and a half which includes the time we waited on him to arrive to do the live demo. There really is no specific time given for the curing process.

haybo19 · #22 07-13-2011, 07:03 PM

just did it today, looks great

Brodie_laj · #23 07-13-2011, 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by haybo19

just did it today, looks great

post pics, this is something i would be interested in doing sometime too

do you have to order this stuff from the company or can you buy it at the store

knightmare1015 · #24 07-14-2011, 07:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by haybo19

just did it today, looks great

Kool. How about some photos man?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brodie_laj

post pics, this is something i would be interested in doing sometime too

do you have to order this stuff from the company or can you buy it at the store

X2. I just read a little bit more in the catalog they gave me and this stuff can even be used on fiberglass which is kool.

I think I found my color that I'll be using on my 1923 T-Bucket project. It's listed under engine enamel and it's Ford's Corporate Blue.

Lee_T413 · #25 07-14-2011, 08:50 AM

it seemed to have cured in full sunlight for about 2-3 hrs. without sunlight 3-4 (from what it says on the can)

knightmare1015 · #26 07-15-2011, 08:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 00 FlareSide Ranger

it seemed to have cured in full sunlight for about 2-3 hrs. without sunlight 3-4 (from what it says on the can)

Thanks man. They have so many curing times listed in their catalog for different products that they have, they just didn't specifically say which curing times was for which product.

XLTRanger4x4 · #27 01-21-2012, 09:19 AM

hey when you guys apply this stuff on the undercarriage are there spots where you shouldnt put it or just go ape shit and have fun ?

Logan03CO · #28 01-21-2012, 07:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XLTRanger4x4

hey when you guys apply this stuff on the undercarriage are there spots where you shouldnt put it or just go ape shit and have fun ?

x2

Wondering about covering nuts & bolts and other items like that. After a google search, some forums say it doesn't cause any issues..and yet other places mention that you will never be able to undo them once covered in POR-15.

I purchased a few of those stater kits they sell; but I just haven't gotten around to tackling the project yet.

richarddhoward · #29 01-22-2012, 10:24 PM

Use common sense, I wouldn't put it on something you plan to have maintain to on a regular basis, but I'd slather the whole thing. The worst you'd have to do...repaint.

knightmare1015 · #30 02-12-2012, 09:14 PM

I finally got to use some of it about 2 weeks ago. There's several things that I don't like about it and they're listed below (sorry, no pictures please see reason listed below) :

#1: More cleaning required than listed.
They don't tell you this until you actually get a kit and I have yet to find this info on their website, but it does make sense though. They recomend you wash it with a soap that doesn't leave anything behind BEFORE you use the Marine Clean degreaser that comes in the kit. Plus before you use the degreaser, they also recomend you dry it to make sure there's nothing left behind. So basically there's more work involved than what's stated on the website. So if any one else can find it please post it.

#2: It stinks very badly.
I'd rather smell 10 dead skunks at one time than to smell this stuff. So I highly recomend that you get some kind of breathing device because there's no telling what this stuff will do to your lungs and sinuses.

#3: Drop cloth required.
If you get this stuff on a surface that you don't want to be covered, consider it ruined. It will make the biggest mess you'll ever see in your life.

#4: Gloves and disposable paint suit required.
Luckily I didn't get it on my hands because I did wear gloves, but I did have to throw away my clothes because this stuff got all over my clothes. If it gets on your skin, you're wearing it off unless you want to pull your skin off. Once it sets in your clothes, it will never come out.

#5: Won't work to well with an everyday paint gun.
My friend and I tried using this in his spare paint gun and it pretty much destroyed it. So if you plan on spraying it, I recomend that you get the gun that they recomend and it aint cheap either, which means spending more money than you intially wanted to. So if you're on a budget this can pretty much ruin it.

In all it wasn't that bad. So if you can afford it, by all means please do. Sorry for no pictures I didn't really have the time to grab the old camera and didn't really do much to amount to anything due to my health issues. If you can't afford to use POR-15 then ordinary truck bed coating should be enough. And for those wondering, you won't have to worry about the truck bed coating fading because it's not in direct sunlight.