I have looked at JYs around me and have had no luck finding one...anywhere to buy one? and is it a pretty simple install from a full glass to sliding glass?!

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2000 Extended Cab XLT 2WD
3.0 V6 Flex Fuel...Pioneer Deck w/ Pink LCD screen....Mustang Dome with LEDs Thanks BuggMan!
Needs installed:Explorer OHC with Green LEDs

I'll post since when I did NO ONE posted for me. I just learned the hard way how to do it.

I got a junkyard one, there we're about 20 rangers, about 10 had sliders.

To remove my solid-pane rear window I started inside the truck and used a spatula (!) yup a spatula to verrrrrrrry slowly pry the rubber gasket up and push it back (outside) the truck. One painstaking push at a time. Getting about 1/4" each time.
AFter 30min, and 3/4 of the way around the window, it fell out (caught it!), Gasket still intact.

You can cut the gasket to get it out in a heart beat, but why waste it?

At the junkyard I started in the bed of the truck and pulled the trim off (this one had exterior trim, mine did not) I then pried the rubber out with my bare fingers, it took about 10 minutes of prying the rubber out and pressing from the inside towards the outside with JUST MY HANDS, no tools (you'll break it, ask my bloody knuckles how I know this).


REmoving the glass is the easy part, now for the fun part: The install

Take the glass and put the gasket on it/stretch it all the way around the glass. Then take a piece of rope (I used 12 gauge wire because I'm ghetto like that) and push it in the DEEP channel in the gasket (there are 2 channels, one's a rib, ones a CHANNEL)

Wrap the entire window (starting in top center, all the way around, back to top center, and overlap some for good measure).

SO you have a window, with gasket, and a piece of wire wrapped in it.::

Place the window where it should go on the truck (helpful to have 2 ppl, I did it alone just fine with a piece of cardboard box to hold it up).

Gently press the window in, IT WON'T FIT. Now get in the truck, grab your wire, and pull slowwwwwly but FIRMLY. THe wire will pull the rubber gasket over the lip and into the inside. The first 80% of the window took minimal pressure on the wire. The last 12" took SERIOUS pulling (think: wire wrapped around hand and pulling with full body weight).


And POP it's in.

Took me 30min to get mine out, 10 min to get the one out at the junkyard. and about 20 min to put the new one in.

I highly recommend cleaning the gasket surface to make it smooooother (WD 40)

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'83 Ford Ranger 2.3L 4Spd, Dual Tanks, 195/60R15's, Welded Rear End TOTALLED AT 483,211 MILES

Thanks, how much did the JY charge you for the slider? I am hoping to go back out soon with my brother in law to look for a slider maybe some seats and he needs some stuff for his car...

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2000 Extended Cab XLT 2WD
3.0 V6 Flex Fuel...Pioneer Deck w/ Pink LCD screen....Mustang Dome with LEDs Thanks BuggMan!
Needs installed:Explorer OHC with Green LEDs

id love a slider but i have an ext cab so idk lol

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Ford Ranger Edge Supercab, 2004 3.0 Auto, 2WD, 4.10 Axle 31x10.5x15 BF Goodrich All Terrain T/A KO's


My Truck Is My Mountain Bike's Ride!

Class III hitch, Rhino Bedliner, Almost Maxed T-Bar Crank, Tuff Country Add A Leaf, Custom Low Anchor Points, OEM ('99) Tow Hooks, Pro Comp Offroad Lights , Mustang Dome Light, Clear Corners, Slim Toolbox, Blinker Mod,Cargo Brake Light Mod,Expo Lighted Visors, Ultra Silverstar heads/fogs, Fog/high mod, Reverse/switched lights, Bike Fork Mounts

Saul, your truck must be a single cab, the window setup on those is completely different than an extended cab 86-97 and 1998+ Rangers.

I paid $23 for the tinted rear slider in my truck. But I have an in, so you can expect to easily pay $30-$60 for one at the higher class rip off yards.

What you need to do to remove the rear window from a 98+ Ranger or an 86-97 Supercab is first the trim needs to be moved out of the way to gain access to the 8 nuts that hold the window in place. This is easily done by pulling the clips out, and then either pulling them all the way out and removing the trim, or just getting the trim far enough out to gain access to the nuts. You will also need to remove the coat hanger from the roof. Next you'll need to remove all the nuts. There are 3 on top, 3 on bottom, and one on each side. I suggest saving the ones on top for last, just in case the old seal has dried up for some reason. Once you get all the nuts off, gently push the window outward, pushing evenly around the window to prevent possible distortion. Eventually you should have at least one spot that is out enough for you to get your hand through. I suggest only pushing out one spot. This way you can then get out and hop in the bed, and then better support the window while you're removing it. If you have someone else to help you, this is not needed as they can be in the bed supporting the window. Now push the rest of the window out. You will need some kind of sharp object to cut the adhesive webs out. After a little bit of pushing the window should be out. The junkyard window should be out, and now you can use this same method to pull your original window out. Once you have your original window out, take some alcohol and get all the old seal off of your cab surface, as well as the new window. Once this is done you will need to install your new seal. The seal I recommend is the 3M ribbon sealer that you can find at Advance Auto Parts. I'll add a link to it at the end of my post. Once the new seal is applied, knead the seal onto the window to make sure it is fully seated. Now pick up the window and insert the threaded posts on the window back through the holes in the cab. Gently push around the entire outer edge of the window to be sure the seal sticks and get the window as flush to the cab as possible. Then, get inside the truck and put the nuts back onto the threaded posts, and tighten down hand tight. You may have to get in an out of the bed a few times to push on the window to get it to sit flush. After you get all the nuts tightened down, do the water test. Run a hose around the window to check for leaks. If none are present, then re-install trim and clips. If leaks are present, get in the bed and try pushing around the window again, and checking the nuts. Do this until no leaks are present, and then reinstall trim. Now, you should be done. If you're install goes anything like mine, you'll have the old adhesive webs all over your cab and bed, so you'll need to clean this up. Rubbing Alcohol works wonders just as it did for your cab/window mating surface.

Hope this helps man, if you have any further questions, PM me.

Link to recommended seal:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web..._T|GRP2034____

Link to How-To written by Jazz921:

http://www.fordrangerforum.com/how-s...w-98-09-a.html

Fordzilla::

You are correct: I have a single cab ranger.
I had no idea they we're a different setup. Glad to see someones' got the knowledge to help you out!

I paid $33 for the window/gasket/trim together

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'83 Ford Ranger 2.3L 4Spd, Dual Tanks, 195/60R15's, Welded Rear End TOTALLED AT 483,211 MILES

how are the window setups different?

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1993 Ford Ranger Splash
2wd 3.0 V6 5speed

MODS: Window decals, toolbox, and my wonderful Girlfriend lol

MODS TO COME: Light bar w/ 4 lights, Brush guard w/ 2 lights, and BIGGER TIRES!

No worries, i've been there before too.




The shape of the window differs slightly, and the way they mount differs as well. The 86+ Supercab/98+ single cab window features an adhesive type seal and bolts in, while the 1983-1997 single cab rear window features a dry type rubber seal that was also used in the F-Series all the way until 1996. These windows do not bolt in and pretty much "float" within the seal.

1983-1997 Single cab Ranger rear window. The slider and the solid were the same size/style. Note in this picture the distance between the top of the front bed panel and the bottom of the window.



1986+ Supercab and 1998+ Single cab Ranger rear window. Note in this picture the distance between the top of the front bed panel and the bottom of the window. This window is "taller" than the 1983-1997 single cab window.

Great pics!

When I was junkyard hunting for mine I made the designation of :elbow to wrist tall, or elbow to wrist taller. lol To determine what size mine was for proper transfer.


For the record, after a week of having it, I friggin love my slider

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'83 Ford Ranger 2.3L 4Spd, Dual Tanks, 195/60R15's, Welded Rear End TOTALLED AT 483,211 MILES

glad to see this thread. def needed some of this info. i want a sliding rear in mine now i know what im in for and what to look for. thanks guys!

Good write up Count

x2

Does anyone know if the gaskets are the same between the slider and solid glass I'm looking at one bug it doesn't have the gasket. So I want to use the gasket out of my fixed glass to install a slider. Will it work?

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2001 Ford Ranger Edge 3.0 auto | Push bar | Offroad lights | Toolbox | CB | CB whip | Tow hitch | Black Taillights | Marker Lights | Headlight mod | Silverstar Ultra ZXE | Pioneer Head Unit | Cold air intake | Mustang Dome Light | Cargo Lights | Expo OHC | Expo White Gauge Cluster | Auto Dim Mirror | Sliding rear window Mod | 05 Chrome Bumper | 03 15x7 Alcoas | 31x10.5x15 Cooper Discoverer A/T3

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__________________
2001 Ford Ranger Edge 3.0 auto | Push bar | Offroad lights | Toolbox | CB | CB whip | Tow hitch | Black Taillights | Marker Lights | Headlight mod | Silverstar Ultra ZXE | Pioneer Head Unit | Cold air intake | Mustang Dome Light | Cargo Lights | Expo OHC | Expo White Gauge Cluster | Auto Dim Mirror | Sliding rear window Mod | 05 Chrome Bumper | 03 15x7 Alcoas | 31x10.5x15 Cooper Discoverer A/T3