Any one know how to hook up the third brake light from a snugtop camper? The ranger I have has a wire that goes to the left back light but is not hooked up. What connections do I need to make to hook the third brake light work???

__________________
2001
2.3L
8000K
Snugtop
OEM Alloys
33xxx miles

you can just grab one of the brake light wires if you wanna be lazy but it will blink when you turn.

if you stop by a topper store they sell a small little converter box that you take the left and right tail light jumped into it then run a wire out of it and it wont blink then.

__________________

ok, im not sure if anywhere on o'ahu, hawaii has a camper shop here but where can i find one on the internet? is there any specific converter box brands that are widely/commonly used?? What is the best option for hooking up the third camper light?

__________________
2001
2.3L
8000K
Snugtop
OEM Alloys
33xxx miles

you can run a wire all the way to the cab and tap into the 3rd brake there...

__________________
Sold:2004 XLT 4x2 Ext. Cab. 3.0 Mods: 3" spindle, AAL, shackle, 32x11.5 on 15x8s, billet grille, clear corners, flow 40 dumped, line-x, CB/PA, traction bars, lil sound system, auto up down windows
Sold:2005 XLT 4x4 Ext. Cab. 4.0 Mods: ProComp lights w/ HID swap on tabs, 32x11.5 on 15x8s, CB/PA, black out heads/corners, lil sound system, cranked t-bars, flow 40 dumped, line-x, shell, bed rug, 06+ tails, metal tail gate handle since plastic one shattered, OHC, Mustang Dome.

looks like so





proper name is Logic module

http://www.commandelectronics.com/th...ke-lights.html

^ $15 here seems a little steep prob find it cheaper if you hunt around


EDIT here is the company that makes it might be able to call them the might be able to tell you someone on the island that might be a dealer?

http://www.atcomp.com/php/product34e...=23&prod_id=55

__________________

just what I was thinking...

Tap into the green & black wires from the 3rd brake light harness.
Green = positive
Black = negative

__________________

I suggest you put quick disconects on your wires in case you want to take off your shell.

__________________
2010 Silver Ford Ranger XLT 2.3L 2WD StyleSide Reg Cab Auto, Open 7.5" - 4.10 diff.
TruxEdo tonneua cover, rubber bed mat, Ranger all weather floor mats.

Definitely do that. Clipping wires every time is not so fun, well the clipping is, the getting them back together isn't.

__________________
Sold:2004 XLT 4x2 Ext. Cab. 3.0 Mods: 3" spindle, AAL, shackle, 32x11.5 on 15x8s, billet grille, clear corners, flow 40 dumped, line-x, CB/PA, traction bars, lil sound system, auto up down windows
Sold:2005 XLT 4x4 Ext. Cab. 4.0 Mods: ProComp lights w/ HID swap on tabs, 32x11.5 on 15x8s, CB/PA, black out heads/corners, lil sound system, cranked t-bars, flow 40 dumped, line-x, shell, bed rug, 06+ tails, metal tail gate handle since plastic one shattered, OHC, Mustang Dome.

NICE thanks guys, i will try and get a wire from the third brake light or get one of the boxes...i'll keep you guys posted...!!

__________________
2001
2.3L
8000K
Snugtop
OEM Alloys
33xxx miles

I did the Logic module because I didnt feel like running a wire from my 3rd brake light i was lazy

__________________

If I had known about the module, I would have done that...

__________________
Sold:2004 XLT 4x2 Ext. Cab. 3.0 Mods: 3" spindle, AAL, shackle, 32x11.5 on 15x8s, billet grille, clear corners, flow 40 dumped, line-x, CB/PA, traction bars, lil sound system, auto up down windows
Sold:2005 XLT 4x4 Ext. Cab. 4.0 Mods: ProComp lights w/ HID swap on tabs, 32x11.5 on 15x8s, CB/PA, black out heads/corners, lil sound system, cranked t-bars, flow 40 dumped, line-x, shell, bed rug, 06+ tails, metal tail gate handle since plastic one shattered, OHC, Mustang Dome.

it does simplify things

__________________

Not trying to resurrect a super old thread, but I do want to add some answers to what I haven't been able to find until I just did it today.

I've got a 1997 Ranger XLT, 2wd 3.0, ymmv. I bought a SnugTop Hi-Liner made in 2000 off of Craigslist and the wiring was not too hard. I didn't think this would be worth posting until after it was done, so I didn't take a bunch of photos, I may edit this later. Here's what I did.

1. 4 Wires hung down from inside the canopy, 2 for the brake light, 2 for the overhead light.
2. Removed the overhead (internal) light because it was broken. I did leave wiring to put it back in easily, more on this in a sec.
3. Pulled off my rear left tail light, as that's what side the canopy cables ran to.

4. Pulled out a multimeter to verify the brake light line I wanted to splice into only activated when the brake was pressed, not when the blinker was on. (I have 3 lights in each housing (tail/brake, blinker, reverse, therefore this is possible to tap into). FWIW, I spliced into the green one marked below.

Ignore the blue clippy-things, that was from a hasty trailer light install from the previous owner.

5. I then soldered leads onto the female A/B parts of a 4-pin connector, one for positive, one for ground. I left the C/D leads available to eventually attach a constant 12v source for the canopy light.

6. I then soldered my leads to the green cable on the tail-light through my splice. Wrapped with tape.

7. I used a crimp-on connector to attach to a nearby ground inside the fender, the pic is just of the trailer ground, I just doubled it up.


8. I had to guess which lead was which inside the canopy for pos/ground because they were both black. I made the assumption that the black with the stripe was ground, and it seemed to work. Buttoned up my work with some plastic sheathing, and boom, all done, no blinking with a quick disconnect.



Hope that was helpful for used canopy users, and again, ymmv.

__________________
'97 Ranger XLT, 2WD, v6 3.0 - S.T.O.C.K.