I'm gonna be take the back half of a frame off, and replace it with a good half. Looks like I can just drill out some rivets. Unless its spot welded too? I don't see any welds.

Anyway, are those rivets hardened steel or anything like that?

ranger frame mid rivets.jpg

ranger frame mid rivets close.jpg

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MODIFICATIONS: Mustang Dome / Stepside bed / Mustang mesh headliner thing / Oh-Shit handles / Expedition Rear View Mirror / Explorer Sport-Trac wheels
COMING EVENTUALLY: OHC / Engine bay LED light strips / Front Crossmember+Tow hooks

Put a drill bit in to them and see. If they are too hard for the drill grind them off with an angle grinder or cutoff wheel.

I doubt if any rivet is hard because it has to be smashed or orbitally formed to complete the process. It might be tough because of forging/burnishing.

I would go straight for the air grinder and small cutoff wheel.

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00 XLT 4WD XCSB 4.0 my new baby
00 XLT 2WD RCSB 5.0 swap in progress.
98 XLT 4WD XCSB 4.0 dead
99 EXPO donor motor for dead one and parts for the others.
Newest Ranger Forum

Yeah get a grinder. You'll thank yourself. Been there done that.

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Checkout this thread where the guy did just that>
Spare Tire Carrier Removal/Rear Frame replacement

There are 16 of those ENJOYABLE rivets, as I've been there, done that a few years back. No easy way to do it...........I did it by drillin hole through the middle startin with small bit to larger, and then knocked the heads of with a drift punch. Was a lot easier than grindin them off.....less noisy, and frustratin.

Just my 02

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I do have a grinder, what kinda wheel should I use to do the least damage to the frame?

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MODIFICATIONS: Mustang Dome / Stepside bed / Mustang mesh headliner thing / Oh-Shit handles / Expedition Rear View Mirror / Explorer Sport-Trac wheels
COMING EVENTUALLY: OHC / Engine bay LED light strips / Front Crossmember+Tow hooks

The least amount of damage will be done with skill. You can mess it up using a drill or a grinder LOL.

I just finished a mad exhaust job and the cutoff wheel did me more good than a drill or the torch actually. Yes it is much louder and requires a little more skill but IMO it is way faster.

I use 3 inch reinforced cutoff wheels with a 1/4" hole on an arbor, I think they are .06 thick. You can get them at any home improvement store, MSC if you have one there, harbor freight....

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00 XLT 4WD XCSB 4.0 my new baby
00 XLT 2WD RCSB 5.0 swap in progress.
98 XLT 4WD XCSB 4.0 dead
99 EXPO donor motor for dead one and parts for the others.
Newest Ranger Forum

Big cutoff wheel works great. Got mine off real quick. Way faster than a drill bit ever could.

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Grinder and a punch, best way to go about it.

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Just finished a similar effort on my f100. I center punched, drilled with smallish bit and larger bit, going deep enough to get through frame. Then used a 4 inch angle grinder.

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2011 Ranger Sport;
1969 F100 LWB;
1971 F100 Flareside (project);
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2010 Harley Ultra Limited

Grind and punch, no effort at all

Should I use #8 or #5 bolts?

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MODIFICATIONS: Mustang Dome / Stepside bed / Mustang mesh headliner thing / Oh-Shit handles / Expedition Rear View Mirror / Explorer Sport-Trac wheels
COMING EVENTUALLY: OHC / Engine bay LED light strips / Front Crossmember+Tow hooks

Grade 8

Agreed, for just about EVERYTHING.

Black oxided socket head cap screws are all grade 8.

__________________
00 XLT 4WD XCSB 4.0 my new baby
00 XLT 2WD RCSB 5.0 swap in progress.
98 XLT 4WD XCSB 4.0 dead
99 EXPO donor motor for dead one and parts for the others.
Newest Ranger Forum

They arent too brittle? Don't I want a little flex?

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MODIFICATIONS: Mustang Dome / Stepside bed / Mustang mesh headliner thing / Oh-Shit handles / Expedition Rear View Mirror / Explorer Sport-Trac wheels
COMING EVENTUALLY: OHC / Engine bay LED light strips / Front Crossmember+Tow hooks

No. Fasten and flex are opposites IMO.

__________________
00 XLT 4WD XCSB 4.0 my new baby
00 XLT 2WD RCSB 5.0 swap in progress.
98 XLT 4WD XCSB 4.0 dead
99 EXPO donor motor for dead one and parts for the others.
Newest Ranger Forum