I want to add some tie down point to my 2000 4x4 ranger extended cab xlt, would the roof be an ok spot to put a few?

This is what I use on my truck. With the drop-in bed liner it's hard to get ropes on the inside. I got them for $25 a pair at Home Depot but you can probably get cheaper ones online.


image-1608181822.jpg

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2007 Regular Cab - 2.3 DOHC - 5 Speed Auto - 4.10 Gears - Maxtrac 7" Lift - Fiberwerx 3" Fenders - Bilstein 5100 Series - 15x10 Ultra 164's - 35x12.50x15 Red Letters - Custom dents

those look cool but I need so tie down points on my roof so that I can secure a refrigerator in the bed(while standing up). I was thinking about using two of these on the roof with bolts going through the sheet and structural metal. http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?...llow&cId=PDIO1
I would then put crank straps at the top and bottom face of the refrigerator going horizontal and then one on the top going side to side.

I wouldnt strap to the roof. I guess Im having problems understanding why you would even want to do that. Ive never had a problem just throwing a ratchet strap over top and across the front.

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I have a full size freezer that I want to make sure stays in place. Would one or two over the top and then one around the bottom do that?

Use four straps. Two that pull against each other near the bed to keep the lower portion in place and then

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Then two more that go diagonal and cross over the top of the freezer.

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1999 3.0 4x4 XLT Flex Regular cab long box
Miles: ~127k
Mods:
-Near leaf springs rated at 1150# each
-#1 T-bars new
-Rancho RS5000 series shocks all around
-2 7" Led bars on the bumper in fog pattern
-Toolbox, black diamond plate
-Frame mount receiver
-Manual front hubs
-Chrome stake hole tiedowns in rear set

Unless you have a real secure forward panel that is bolted to a STRONG part of your bed, or a good headache rack, there is no "good" point to scab in a quick and dirty tie down and move the thing safely. I would suggest you borrow/rent a trailer if you insist on not laying the freezer on it's side (a subject and a process that is, in itself, debatable).

*Ranger bed is how man inches tall and how tall is your freezer? Think about it.

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2004 Ranger FX4 Level II, 5R55E, Sonic Blue Pearl

Proudly JAP/RICE free since March 2000

Or you can do what my dad did in his old 96 ranger (formerly mine) just stand it up in the back and go fast over the railroad tracks! Needless to say the ranger won that battle and we broke the freezer. Not a single dent on the ranger, now that's ford tough!

But anyways I would do the 4 straps idea attached to the hooks inside the bed or the retractable bed rail "bully rings" cause I cant really imagine a way to secure that thing down while strapping it down to the roof.. All the drilling for what may rip out of the roof is a high risk in my opinion.

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2007 Regular Cab - 2.3 DOHC - 5 Speed Auto - 4.10 Gears - Maxtrac 7" Lift - Fiberwerx 3" Fenders - Bilstein 5100 Series - 15x10 Ultra 164's - 35x12.50x15 Red Letters - Custom dents

Yeah, don't drill into the roof.

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2000 Ford Ranger XLT
Extended Cab
3.0 Flex
4x4
Manual Transmission
Offroad Package

So I have decide I am not going to add some tie down points to the roof. I am going to go with what Shayzar7 suggested. Now I just have to figure out how to get in to bed.

Best way to get it in, a few friends and a bunch of beer

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1999 3.0 4x4 XLT Flex Regular cab long box
Miles: ~127k
Mods:
-Near leaf springs rated at 1150# each
-#1 T-bars new
-Rancho RS5000 series shocks all around
-2 7" Led bars on the bumper in fog pattern
-Toolbox, black diamond plate
-Frame mount receiver
-Manual front hubs
-Chrome stake hole tiedowns in rear set

Your roof is only a sheet metal skin. You'll destroy the roof the first time you put a strap to them.

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1997 B2300 reg cab 2.3 Lima, 15x8.5 Mickey Thompson classic 2, 31x10.50 cooper discover at3, 7.5 open 4.10 rear, dynomax super turbo catback, alpine iva-w200 w/ nav, kicker 6x8s, alpine type R 8, alpine 250W mono amp, power bass 400.4, tool box & camper shell, compustar alarm/remote start.
1956 Ford F100 rust bucket with big plans!

When you're securing something, you secure it from going forward...

Straps on the roof would allow it to tip forward on your cab.

Get a bunch of blankets and fill the gaps behind the fridge against the cab, then strap like mentioned. Around the back and over the top

a headache rack might be in order...otherwise strap it down from the top and rear/sides. not recommending this but if it was me I'd lay it down and just let it sit upright at home for a day or two before using it (that's what warranty is for right? lol)

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96 Xlt 2wd
4in rough country lift
31's