Inexpensive 2wd lift options - Page 3

yeah it's lifted · #31 05-16-2014, 09:48 PM

I wish mine was 4x4.

brxxxck · #32 05-16-2014, 10:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yeah it's lifted

i wish mine was 4x4.

preach brother.

Xx-L1l-M3-xX · #33 05-16-2014, 10:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yeah it's lifted

I wish mine was 4x4.

a plus is you get better gas mileage, probably the only plus lol, or prerunner it out if you got money to put into it

Sent from my windows phone cuz windows>ios

brxxxck · #34 05-16-2014, 10:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Xx-L1l-M3-xX

a plus is you get better gas mileage, probably the only plus lol, or prerunner it out if you got money to put into it Sent from my windows phone cuz windows>ios

I'm more in the process of turning it into a camping/ road trip vehicle. I'm not a huge fan of the pre runner look so I'm probably going to go more of a rugged route with it.

Xx-L1l-M3-xX · #35 05-16-2014, 10:38 PM

Ohh alight, yea the pre runner look is definitely a personal preference thing. I wanna have their wide stance but with just a 1.5 2 in lift to its lower and wide

Sent from my windows phone cuz windows>ios

doyouquaxu · #36 05-16-2014, 11:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Xx-L1l-M3-xX

a plus is you get better gas mileage, probably the only plus lol, or prerunner it out if you got money to put into it Sent from my windows phone cuz windows>ios

Less money to regear, and you learn to drive instead of relying on 4x4 to get you out.

thadius856 · #37 05-17-2014, 08:37 AM

Another vote for the spindles. OP, your time and safety are worth something. And it's more than the cost difference of the coils vs spindles.

Before yesterday, I had never worked on the suspension of any vehicle before. Between tuts here and videos on YouTube, I managed to glean all the info I needed to do the job. If I were only doing the spindles, it would have been a couple hour job.

Ended up also replacing lower ball joints, outer tie rod ends, upper ball joints, upper control arms, rotors, pads, wheel bearings and seals. The parts are cheap enough and I wanted the Moog greasable upper ball joints. I have access to a full shop with a 4-post lift, a full complement of tools, and the ability to solicit full-time mechanics for advice at $5/hr all-inclusive. Note, if you use a lift bay, you'll need a hydraulic support to take the weight off the lower control arms (front) and the differential (rear).

Left side took 4 hrs 15 mins. 30 mins of that was when we had everything back together, then realized we hadn't reinstalled the brake dust guard, so we ripped the rotors back off, only to realize the Wheels n Parts spindles don't have mounting holes for them. Oh well, to the scrap pile they went.

Most of the time was spent learning how to do things the right way (pressing out the old ball joints, pressing in the new ones, removing the mud flap over the upper control arm). The right side took only 1 hr 20 mins to complete once we knew the tricks (knock the old lower ball joint out with a sledge, hold the mud flap out of the way, etc). Now that I've done it one, I think I could safely swap in lift spindles in under an hour per side.

The shackles were super easy. My truck has only minor surface rust in some spots, so it was literally 2 bolts come out, 200# buddy hangs from the leaf spring, 2 bolts go in. Both spindles were replaced in under 30 mins, while we BS'd. If you've got a goodly amount of rust or siezed bushings, it'll likely take you a while.

OP, with the 4" WnP spindles and the 2" Belltech 6400 lift shackles, you'll go from running 1" lower in the front to 1" higher in the front. Looks great to me, but something to consider if you're super set on running dead-level. You could always add lift blocks or add-a-leaf to bring up the rear a little more as well. With a wheel/tire upsize, I picked up ~5-1/2" at the door frame.

Before

Wheels/Tires

Cooper Trendsetter SE (Mud/Snow) P225/75R15 on 15x6 steelie teardrops
Michelin LTX M/S2 (All-season Highway) P275/75R16 on 16x8 American Racing alloys

After

MadridRanger1994 · #38 05-17-2014, 06:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thadius856

Another vote for the spindles. OP, your time and safety are worth something. And it's more than the cost difference of the coils vs spindles. Before yesterday, I had never worked on the suspension of any vehicle before. Between tuts here and videos on YouTube, I managed to glean all the info I needed to do the job. If I were only doing the spindles, it would have been a couple hour job. Ended up also replacing lower ball joints, outer tie rod ends, upper ball joints, upper control arms, rotors, pads, wheel bearings and seals. The parts are cheap enough and I wanted the Moog greasable upper ball joints. I have access to a full shop with a 4-post lift, a full complement of tools, and the ability to solicit full-time mechanics for advice at $5/hr all-inclusive. Note, if you use a lift bay, you'll need a hydraulic support to take the weight off the lower control arms (front) and the differential (rear). Left side took 4 hrs 15 mins. 30 mins of that was when we had everything back together, then realized we hadn't reinstalled the brake dust guard, so we ripped the rotors back off, only to realize the Wheels n Parts spindles don't have mounting holes for them. Oh well, to the scrap pile they went. Most of the time was spent learning how to do things the right way (pressing out the old ball joints, pressing in the new ones, removing the mud flap over the upper control arm). The right side took only 1 hr 20 mins to complete once we knew the tricks (knock the old lower ball joint out with a sledge, hold the mud flap out of the way, etc). Now that I've done it one, I think I could safely swap in lift spindles in under an hour per side. The shackles were super easy. My truck has only minor surface rust in some spots, so it was literally 2 bolts come out, 200# buddy hangs from the leaf spring, 2 bolts go in. Both spindles were replaced in under 30 mins, while we BS'd. If you've got a goodly amount of rust or siezed bushings, it'll likely take you a while. OP, with the 4" WnP spindles and the 2" Belltech 6400 lift shackles, you'll go from running 1" lower in the front to 1" higher in the front. Looks great to me, but something to consider if you're super set on running dead-level. You could always add lift blocks or add-a-leaf to bring up the rear a little more as well. With a wheel/tire upsize, I picked up ~5-1/2" at the door frame. Before Wheels/Tires Cooper Trendsetter SE (Mud/Snow) P225/75R15 on 15x6 steelie teardrops Michelin LTX M/S2 (All-season Highway) P275/75R16 on 16x8 American Racing alloys After

spindles it os for me as well. Wow the truck looks nice man.

brxxxck · #39 05-17-2014, 06:56 PM

Thad your truck looks sweet. Really cool to see what my exact set up will look like after.

GoHawks117 · #40 05-18-2014, 05:47 AM

-Madrid Ranger, This may not effect you, but when I was researching my spindle lift (Fabtech) I came across information stating that the brake rotors are slightly larger on Sport and Splash model Rangers than the Xl, XLT, and Edge models. The spindles I purchased for my 03 Edge would not have fit a Sport or Splash model. According to my research, and then agreed to by the mechanic who built the truck. It would be ashame for you to buy something that did not fit your truck properly.

MadridRanger1994 · #41 05-18-2014, 06:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GoHawks117

-Madrid Ranger, This may not effect you, but when I was researching my spindle lift (Fabtech) I came across information stating that the brake rotors are slightly larger on Sport and Splash model Rangers than the Xl, XLT, and Edge models. The spindles I purchased for my 03 Edge would not have fit a Sport or Splash model. According to my research, and then agreed to by the mechanic who built the truck. It would be ashame for you to buy something that did not fit your truck properly.

I agree, thanks for the info Michael, I'll do some research and we shall find out!

thadius856 · #42 05-18-2014, 09:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GoHawks117

-Madrid Ranger, This may not effect you, but when I was researching my spindle lift (Fabtech) I came across information stating that the brake rotors are slightly larger on Sport and Splash model Rangers than the Xl, XLT, and Edge models. The spindles I purchased for my 03 Edge would not have fit a Sport or Splash model. According to my research, and then agreed to by the mechanic who built the truck. It would be ashame for you to buy something that did not fit your truck properly.

Quote:

Originally Posted by MadridRanger1994

I agree, thanks for the info Michael, I'll do some research and we shall find out!

WheelsNParts sells a different lift spindle for the Sport models.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1999-2010-Fo...item2ecfd111e3

About $1 difference from their XL/XLT/Edge version.

Description for the XL/XLT/Edge version:

Quote:

Fits:

2001 - 2011
Two Wheel Drive
Ranger Trucks*

Will not fit 2010-2012 Rangers with Stabilitrack ABS*

Description for the Sport version:

Quote:

Fits:
1999 - 2010
Two Wheel Drive with Torsion Bar Front Suspension
Ranger Edge Trucks ONLY

Will not fit 2010-2012 Rangers with Stabilitrack ABS*

MadridRanger1994 · #43 07-12-2014, 06:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thadius856

WheelsNParts sells a different lift spindle for the Sport models. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1999-2010-Fo...item2ecfd111e3 About $1 difference from their XL/XLT/Edge version. Description for the XL/XLT/Edge version: Description for the Sport version:

Got em!

Toddzilla · #44 09-09-2014, 12:34 AM

Hey guys, I'm just starting out. Bought my truck a few days ago ('03 2wd xlt 3.0L) and had a question that I haven't been able to find the answer to on frf. I get that coil spacers can cause problems down the line in ball joints and so on, but what about these?: http://www.andysautosport.com/produc..._753020-6.html
I would venture an uneducated guess that "lift springs" would put the same kinds of stresses on your ball joints and change geometry all the same?

thadius856 · #45 09-09-2014, 10:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Toddzilla

Hey guys, I'm just starting out. Bought my truck a few days ago ('03 2wd xlt 3.0L) and had a question that I haven't been able to find the answer to on frf. I get that coil spacers can cause problems down the line in ball joints and so on, but what about these?: http://www.andysautosport.com/produc..._753020-6.html
I would venture an uneducated guess that "lift springs" would put the same kinds of stresses on your ball joints and change geometry all the same?

I'm no expert, but I gotta imagine that's the case. I think they'd also stiffen the ride quite a bit, maybe even shorten the travel available.

If lift spindles are available to your model (looks like they are), then they're probably the best bet, even if they cost a little more in the short term.