What should i do to fix this?

gcextreme · #1 10-21-2013, 05:42 PM

Here are some of my options:

1. I have several shops that want to REPLACE the whole bedside, prices range from $1700-$2300.
A. Bad thing about this is i will have to re-bedline the new bedrails and the bottom rockers again. Also the new painted bed will look newer and fresher than the rest of the truck thats 14yrs faded.

2. Two other shops are willing to cut out the damaged lower quarter panel and replace it by welding in a new one and painting it. Estimate for this is from $450-$750.
A. Bad thing here is the weld, i would have to bedline the inner side of course, as well as the outer side to protect the welded area from rusting out.

3. One shop wants to fix it, repair it by pulling it out and re-working it. Estimate is $730ish.
A. They would paint it and blend it a bit, but i would only have to re-bedline that lower corner section.

INSURANCE:
I have FULL COVERAGE, but i have a $500 deductible.
If i went with options #2 or #3, its not really worth me making an insurance claim.
If i go with the more expensive option #1 i would make a claim and pay the $500 deductible.
Of course i am sure my insurance premium would go up.
I have never had any accidents or claims, so i have a clean record going good for me.

djfllmn · #2 10-21-2013, 05:44 PM

id go route number 1

gcextreme · #3 10-21-2013, 05:47 PM

there are a few other scratches and stuff on that bedside that i wouldnt mind getting rid of...but they really arent that big of a deal, ive dealt with them for years....im just worried about the new bedside paint being way different then the rest of the truck.

ford4thot · #4 10-21-2013, 05:48 PM

The option numbers in post don't coincide with the way they are listed in the vote...confusing

I saw just pop it out

djfllmn · #5 10-21-2013, 05:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gcextreme

there are a few other scratches and stuff on that bedside that i wouldnt mind getting rid of...but they really arent that big of a deal, ive dealt with them for years....im just worried about the new bedside paint being way different then the rest of the truck.

the only difference is it will be new paint...a good painter will make it look spot on

gcextreme · #6 10-21-2013, 06:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ford4thot

The option numbers in post don't coincide with the way they are listed in the vote...confusing

I saw just pop it out

sorry, fixed it...
when i did the poll i couldnt remember what order i had the last two in, lol.

Quote:

Originally Posted by djfllmn

the only difference is it will be new paint...a good painter will make it look spot on

yeah i hope so...

traildad2 · #7 10-21-2013, 06:05 PM

Pop it out, clean it up and refinish. Fender flare will cover any minor deficiencies

2004 fx4 level II · #8 10-21-2013, 06:09 PM

if ur planning on keeping it for a long time i'd go with 1st one if not I'd just pop it out

MikeyKc · #9 10-21-2013, 06:11 PM

bushwacker cut outs anyone?

wvcat · #10 10-21-2013, 06:22 PM

I have to be different I say replace the bed. You can get them for 4-500 on cl...

gcextreme · #11 10-21-2013, 06:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2004 fx4 level II

if ur planning on keeping it for a long time i'd go with 1st one if not I'd just pop it out

i plan on keeping it forever, till i wreck it or till its a rust pile..

Quote:

Originally Posted by wvcat

I have to be different I say replace the bed. You can get them for 4-500 on cl...

not around here...i have already searched and searched...and i cant find anything....specially not in red...
the only thing i have found is a green one that is 300 miles away and they want $600 for it.

wvcat · #12 10-21-2013, 06:46 PM

Did you check car-part.com I found a few in MN

gcextreme · #13 10-21-2013, 07:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wvcat

Did you check car-part.com I found a few in MN

Yeah theres not much for red ones and i bet they arent in any better condition..
And i dont want to replace my whole bed!! If i did that i would have to spend more time and money to bedline it!

cowboybilly9mile · #14 10-21-2013, 08:10 PM

OK, here's the deal.

Option #1 would be my LEAST preferred and me, I would not allow it. The reason for this is, you have to wonder if the shop will clean all the crud out between the old metal and the newly welded to it metal. Those cracks are hard to clean thoroughly out in a field environment, as such and if you did that, you get to worry about how long it will be until the paint cracks, water gets in, and rust at that seam begins. Leave the quality seaming and proper corrosion treatment of them to the factory.

Option #2 - I would do this IF the preferred option, option #3 can't be satisfactorily performed.

Option 3 - I would go for this in a heartbeat provided that they don't pack a 5 gallon bucket of bondo in it, level it with a trowel and use the same type of sander on it as they use on hardwood floors.

There is more to talk about, see below.

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Quote:

Originally Posted by gcextreme

Yeah theres not much for red ones and i bet they arent in any better condition..
And i dont want to replace my whole bed!! If i did that i would have to spend more time and money to bedline it!

IF it were mine and IF I could get a rust free bed at a decent price, that's what I'd do and I could care less what color it is because I WOULD be painting it anyway. I know very well that if you find a red bed that due to fading, spray technique when it was painted, temp/humidity when it was painted, etc etc, is is EXCEPTIONALLY likely to NOT match. If it did, lucky you, what a remarkable stroke of luck!!!! So brace for painting the repair, a good shop can match paint, due to wear and tear surely there's swirls in the old stuff and there will be less in the new, probably only you will know and that's when you critique it. Blending old/new paint can be accomplished using 400, 800, etc etc papers and rubbing compounds used properly help meld old into the new. You don't have much to worry about here, but I would tell them that you are going to be fussy about the matching and belnding so they know you're policing quality.

And finally, why would I go for the rust free, complete used bed and paint it (assuming I can't find evidence of previous damage)? Simple, the original factory corrosion inhibitors, stuff like galvanizing, are on that bed; when they cut and grind into your old paint it's bye bye with those awesome factory finishes and hello to what it takes to get it out the door. So no matter what you do, you need to talk to the shop about restoring corrosion protection before allowing anyone to cut and chop on it. Hopefully there are methods today that approach the level of what the factory does. If not, rock chips will turn into rust spots, will turn into pealing paint, uggg. Lots to think about here.

djfllmn · #15 10-22-2013, 04:01 AM

^if you get a good shop to do that they will make sure it wont rust and they will have a lifetime warranty on all repairs as well