O well I'm just speaking from my personal experience.

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Patrick E

2001 XLT 4x4 4.0L
Dynomax Turbo Exhaust System
3inch Body Lift
JBA Headers
32x11.5R15 BFG T/A KO on 15x8 ion rims

Jp7 excuse my ignorance but what exactly do you lose by removing one or more of your cats. Other than emmision control. I don't understand your high tech talk here........

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2005 4.0 FX4
Tinted out (15% front, 1% back glass and quarters, 5% winshield strip), Line X Bedliner, Flowmaster Super 40, T-Bar Crank with 265 Firestone AT's
Memphis Power Reference 10 in a ported box, 400 watt amp, 8000k 55w HID's
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Mods to come...
4" Superlift

fuel and timing are pretty low tech ideas. i suggest reading up on how the first basic electronically controlled spark and fuel systems worked. google.

if you just don't want to spend the time really understanding the basics understand this. - it won't make the truck feel faster unless the cat is shot already.

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Looking for a professional retrofitter to add HIDs or LEDs to your Ranger? PM me if your looking to have work done, and have cash to spend.

Meow

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SOLD:'05 2wd Ranger xl with the 3.0
MODS-Alpine head unit, throttle cable mod, Black Rock wheels, FX4 lvl II axle swap, pooleo's camo painted bezel and mustang dome, painted/aftermarket headlights/tails fold-a-cover and over 100 hp in stickers

'86 AMC Eagle and '01 Grand Prix GTP

Ok guys ive decided on a muffler for real.....SUPER 44.....and im probably not gonna go catless after all of the stuff you guys have brought up.....dont wanna risk damaging my baby

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2004 Ranger XLT 2.3L 2WD with Cherry Bomb Turbo Muffler (Dumped), K&N Air Filter, Clear Corners, Kicker CVT 10" with Jensen 900W Amp, Luminics Krypton Blue Headlight Bulbs, SEC Toolbox, and Bedrails

yea i cut mine off on my 3.0 and i kinda regret it but i made simulators for my o2 sensors just with basic parts from radio shack.. for like 30$... now i got my hands on a magnaflow true dual and im gettin it put on tomorrow.. lets just say that peace is worth alot to the cops.

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xenon lights, true dual magnaflow with dumps, electric fan, shaded lights, cluster lights, blinker mod, Superior correction kit, b&m shift improver, tps mod, 5-5 or somethin close to it drop

thats my line.









meow

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1996 XLT 2.3T "White Lightning" 5/7 dropped, Turbo street toy
2006 FX4 Off Road, DD, work in progress
1985 XLT 2.8L 4x4 "The Black Pearl" (retired but still around)
1987 XL 2.3L 2wd R.I.P.

meow

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SOLD:'05 2wd Ranger xl with the 3.0
MODS-Alpine head unit, throttle cable mod, Black Rock wheels, FX4 lvl II axle swap, pooleo's camo painted bezel and mustang dome, painted/aftermarket headlights/tails fold-a-cover and over 100 hp in stickers

'86 AMC Eagle and '01 Grand Prix GTP

Roar!

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2003 Ford Ranger XLT 3.0L Flexfuel V6

Underdrive crank pulley
15x8 Procomp Xtreme Alloy 7069
31x10.5x15 Dick Cepek Radial FC II
Cherry Bomb Extreme

Most of you guys (including me at 60 Y.O.) will speed up an down the hiway an risk hurting yourself an other people, but let one guy say I'm going catless" an the greenie's an tree huggers pop up like tomato plants on steroids.

On my 94 the os that reads f/a mixture is before the cat an could care less if the cat is on there or not.

Tape over the ck eng. lite or take it out if it bugs ya. As long as you can get it inspected somewhere (everbody knows somebody that will) an your still happy with gas mileage, don't worry about it.

All ya really need for the engine is the same things they have been using for 100 years.
Speedo, gas, oil, water temp, and gen/alt or volt gauges. Maybe a tach for the hot rodders......

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94 4 cyl, 1 wd 5 spd blue/blue--Mine
99 4 cyl, 1 wd auto black/grey--Girls
1979 Wheel Horse C-101 10 hp

ya you do lose a lil power but my problem was the 2nd o2 sencer kept going bad after about a year but i got a new truck with the 4.0 and i just got high flo cats it runs like butter

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94 super 4x4 4 inch suspension lift on 31s for now

untrue.. some backpressure is good! especially for stock to mild built engines. run open manifolds and see how your stock truck/car runs. I promise it will run like shit.

$30!? HOW!? i made my MIL eliminators for my 2002 mustang GT (has no cats) for about $3

Tell us how, incase we need to do it someday.............

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94 4 cyl, 1 wd 5 spd blue/blue--Mine
99 4 cyl, 1 wd auto black/grey--Girls
1979 Wheel Horse C-101 10 hp

This is how I did mine for my mustang. Im sure it would work for a ranger.

The parts/part numbers from radio shack that you will need are:

#2721434 - Tantalum Capacitor - You need 2 of these
#2711356 - This is a 5 pack of 1 mega ohm resistors. One pack is enough.

You will also need electrical tape, solder, and a soldering iron. If you don't have these items they can also be bought at radioshack.

You will need to remove your stock rear O2 sensor for this process.

Start by carefully cutting off the outer sheathing from the O2 sensor wiring. Once it is off you will notice that there are 4 different wires -- A Gray wire, a Black Wire, and two White wires. You will want to mark one of the white wires because they will have to be matched up in their original configuration when everything is soldered back together.

cut and strip the Grey wire so there is 1/2" of wire exposed. Now strip the black wire so there is about 1/2" or wire exposed you are going to follow the wiring diagram.

Be sure to pay attention to which end the Sensor is on and which the connector is on -- IT DOES MATTER.

After everything is soldered up wrap the entire wire area of the harness with the electrical tape. (I used a combnation of shrink wrap and electrical tape) Once all of the steps have been completed you should see the two ends(one the connector and the other the O2 sensors) with electrical tapped wire from end to end.

Undo your battery terminals so that the car has now power.

Screw the sensor back into the pipe and plug the connector ends back into the car.

After getting the sensors plugged back up about 5 minutes should have passed. Put the terminals back onto the battery and you are good to go.


I can't absolutely positively promise you that this will work for your vehicle, but it has for mine and was much cheaper than buying MIL's. It works exactly like MILs do so if you have followed the instructions and diagram you should be good to go and not have to look at an annoying check engine light.

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97' 2.3 5spd
Riding on aiR