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  #16  
Old 04-28-2010, 02:03 PM
ILFarmboy ILFarmboy is offline
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Default Re: Catless

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Originally Posted by Jp7 View Post
Thousands of articles say you are wrong.
O well I'm just speaking from my personal experience.
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  #17  
Old 04-28-2010, 02:19 PM
calebw15 calebw15 is offline
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Default Re: Catless

Jp7 excuse my ignorance but what exactly do you lose by removing one or more of your cats. Other than emmision control. I don't understand your high tech talk here........
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  #18  
Old 04-28-2010, 06:32 PM
Jp7 Jp7 is offline
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Default Re: Catless

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Originally Posted by calebw15 View Post
Jp7 excuse my ignorance but what exactly do you lose by removing one or more of your cats. Other than emmision control. I don't understand your high tech talk here........
fuel and timing are pretty low tech ideas. i suggest reading up on how the first basic electronically controlled spark and fuel systems worked. google.

if you just don't want to spend the time really understanding the basics understand this. - it won't make the truck feel faster unless the cat is shot already.
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Last edited by Jp7; 04-28-2010 at 06:38 PM.
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  #19  
Old 04-28-2010, 06:33 PM
DHEM DHEM is offline
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Default Re: Catless

Meow
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  #20  
Old 04-29-2010, 02:37 AM
DangerRanger007 DangerRanger007 is offline
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Default Re: Catless

Ok guys ive decided on a muffler for real.....SUPER 44.....and im probably not gonna go catless after all of the stuff you guys have brought up.....dont wanna risk damaging my baby
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  #21  
Old 05-04-2010, 10:12 PM
hpfreak08 hpfreak08 is offline
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Default Re: Catless

yea i cut mine off on my 3.0 and i kinda regret it but i made simulators for my o2 sensors just with basic parts from radio shack.. for like 30$... now i got my hands on a magnaflow true dual and im gettin it put on tomorrow.. lets just say that peace is worth alot to the cops.
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  #22  
Old 05-04-2010, 10:40 PM
TheStig TheStig is offline
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Default Re: Catless

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Originally Posted by DHEM View Post
Meow

thats my line.









meow
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  #23  
Old 05-05-2010, 12:02 PM
DHEM DHEM is offline
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Default Re: Catless

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheStig View Post
thats my line.









meow
meow
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  #24  
Old 05-05-2010, 01:25 PM
CUTiger CUTiger is offline
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Default Re: Catless

Roar!
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  #25  
Old 08-14-2010, 10:17 AM
The Toolman The Toolman is offline
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Default Re: Catless

Most of you guys (including me at 60 Y.O.) will speed up an down the hiway an risk hurting yourself an other people, but let one guy say I'm going catless" an the greenie's an tree huggers pop up like tomato plants on steroids.

On my 94 the os that reads f/a mixture is before the cat an could care less if the cat is on there or not.

Tape over the ck eng. lite or take it out if it bugs ya. As long as you can get it inspected somewhere (everbody knows somebody that will) an your still happy with gas mileage, don't worry about it.

All ya really need for the engine is the same things they have been using for 100 years.
Speedo, gas, oil, water temp, and gen/alt or volt gauges. Maybe a tach for the hot rodders......
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  #26  
Old 08-29-2010, 04:17 PM
spence57 spence57 is offline
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Default Re: Catless

ya you do lose a lil power but my problem was the 2nd o2 sencer kept going bad after about a year but i got a new truck with the 4.0 and i just got high flo cats it runs like butter
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  #27  
Old 08-29-2010, 09:58 PM
Willy Mo Willy Mo is offline
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Default Re: Catless

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jp7 View Post
a noobie comment (sorry!)

Backpressure = bad

Keeping the pulses moving fast enough so that they suck eachother down the hot side of the exhaust = good.

In the hot side of the exhaust, exhaust does not "flow" it "pulses". If you slow it down it begins to "flow" and this is what kills torque.

People imagine exhaust flowing like a river stream. Wrong. It is more like a tide moving in and out, high and low. It does not turn into a laminar flow until it gets cold enough, or slow down enough.
untrue.. some backpressure is good! especially for stock to mild built engines. run open manifolds and see how your stock truck/car runs. I promise it will run like shit.
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  #28  
Old 08-29-2010, 10:00 PM
Willy Mo Willy Mo is offline
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Default Re: Catless

Quote:
Originally Posted by hpfreak08 View Post
yea i cut mine off on my 3.0 and i kinda regret it but i made simulators for my o2 sensors just with basic parts from radio shack.. for like 30$... now i got my hands on a magnaflow true dual and im gettin it put on tomorrow.. lets just say that peace is worth alot to the cops.
$30!? HOW!? i made my MIL eliminators for my 2002 mustang GT (has no cats) for about $3
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  #29  
Old 08-30-2010, 07:03 AM
The Toolman The Toolman is offline
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Default Re: Catless

Tell us how, incase we need to do it someday.............
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  #30  
Old 08-30-2010, 01:29 PM
Willy Mo Willy Mo is offline
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Default Re: Catless

This is how I did mine for my mustang. Im sure it would work for a ranger.

The parts/part numbers from radio shack that you will need are:

#2721434 - Tantalum Capacitor - You need 2 of these
#2711356 - This is a 5 pack of 1 mega ohm resistors. One pack is enough.

You will also need electrical tape, solder, and a soldering iron. If you don't have these items they can also be bought at radioshack.

You will need to remove your stock rear O2 sensor for this process.

Start by carefully cutting off the outer sheathing from the O2 sensor wiring. Once it is off you will notice that there are 4 different wires -- A Gray wire, a Black Wire, and two White wires. You will want to mark one of the white wires because they will have to be matched up in their original configuration when everything is soldered back together.

cut and strip the Grey wire so there is 1/2" of wire exposed. Now strip the black wire so there is about 1/2" or wire exposed you are going to follow the wiring diagram.

Be sure to pay attention to which end the Sensor is on and which the connector is on -- IT DOES MATTER.

After everything is soldered up wrap the entire wire area of the harness with the electrical tape. (I used a combnation of shrink wrap and electrical tape) Once all of the steps have been completed you should see the two ends(one the connector and the other the O2 sensors) with electrical tapped wire from end to end.

Undo your battery terminals so that the car has now power.

Screw the sensor back into the pipe and plug the connector ends back into the car.

After getting the sensors plugged back up about 5 minutes should have passed. Put the terminals back onto the battery and you are good to go.


I can't absolutely positively promise you that this will work for your vehicle, but it has for mine and was much cheaper than buying MIL's. It works exactly like MILs do so if you have followed the instructions and diagram you should be good to go and not have to look at an annoying check engine light.

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Last edited by Willy Mo; 08-30-2010 at 01:55 PM.
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