Hi guys, I'm new to the forum and I'm afraid I need some help. I have a 98 Ford Ranger with power windows. I use the truck for work, so I'm typically the only one in it. Anyhow, the passenger side window doesn't work.

I decided that i'd tinker with it today, hoping it would be something easy. I popped off the door panel, and low and behold, the attachment for the motor wasn't connected. I plugged it in, voila! window rolled down no problem.

Uh oh...It won't go back up.

Long story short. At this point, I have both door panels ripped off. I've removed the motor and window regulator from the passenger side, I replaced the driver side switch (because I read that if the driver side is bad, the passenger side won't work).

So in a nutshell, here's where I'm at.



Passenger side window will not roll up. I need it to roll up. I've replaced the motor and regulator (which weren't bad). I replaced the driver side door switch (not bad either). So I'm $100 into something that I figured I'd do while drinking a few beers.

The window will go down, but not up. Any help or tips? Also, Im not an electrical genius, so if you're going to explain electricity to me, please talk slowly.


Here's an update: I've now replaced both passenger and driver side switches, the motor and regulator. If I press the DOWN button on the passenger side, the window rolls down. If I press the DOWN button from the Drivers side, nothing happens. If I press UP from passenger or Drivers side, nothing happens.


I have no idea what to do. Why did I start pissing around with this?

Thanks for reading.

You started pissing around because you could!!
Anyway there's a black box called GEM module and it controls a lot of different function on the truck ,the windows are one of them. I believe it resides behind the radio, It may have some bad connection at the connectors.
I added a pic of the circuit...pin #5 on the driver side switch is ground ,make sure it's good with a multimeter.

Attached Images

PW2001.jpg (57.5 KB, 30 views)

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2011 Ranger XLT 2x4,4.0 SOHC, 5 Speed Auto, 3.55 Rear. Oxford White.

Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.

Torque it down till it breaks off, then back it off 1/4 turn.

Thanks Rangerman.

Here's the latest update. I'm really just kinda spinning my wheels at this point.

I created a small jumper. If I jump between the ground and one of the wires, the motor spins. However, I can't get it to spin the other way (the direction that would make it go up).

Next, I took a continuity tester and tapped it onto the 2 of the wires WH/Y and BL/BR on the passenger side switch. The continuity tester has a green light, if I press the window control button. The light goes out. But only on the down.

So for kicks, I switched the red and black wires on the continuity tester and the light goes out on both the up and down press of the button.

I still can't get anything to happen on the driver side whatsoever.

I'm so confused at this point, I don't know what to do. I'm 13 hrs into something that never had to happen.

Thanks for the schematic, But they don't make much sense to me. But I'm going to try to understand it.

Where is the master window switch?

I'm think I'm just going to put everything back together, and forget it. If I was concerned with the wind blowing through my luxurious hair, I would've bought a jeep.

I would make sure the ground is good on terminal 5 of the master switch. If that is missing, the windows will only go down according to the wiring diagram.

That's what I got from it too! That's why I told him to test with a voltmeter at pin 5...I deal with electronics and batteries all day at work.

This is what I do....from the ground up!



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It's the drivers side window control....It may have a wire going directly from the connector to the metal door panel and held in place with a screw..

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2011 Ranger XLT 2x4,4.0 SOHC, 5 Speed Auto, 3.55 Rear. Oxford White.

Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.

Torque it down till it breaks off, then back it off 1/4 turn.

ok looks like you have an open in the tan/lt bl wire between the two door switches on the Pin 2 passenger side window switch. Get a test light check for 12v on pin 3 key on, then check pin 2 and press the switch to go up. If the light comes on you have an open in the neg side of the circuit. it should be at ground but it runs all the way to the driver side switch before it gets its ground. That also will create the problem with the drivers side switch since it needs BOTH wires connected to control the passenger side motor.

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Just when I think I finally have it idiot proof, someone comes along and builds a better idiot..
2011 Ranger XLT 4 door 2x4,4.0 SOHC, Auto, 3.55 Rear. Vista Blue

Ok. So here's where I'm at today. Started the truck. Placed red wire from meter into the blue/black line on passenger side. I have voltage. It's higher than 12v. It's about 13.8.

I placed the red line from the meter on the LT/Blue/Tan position. When I press the button UP I have voltage. So it looks like your assumption of the problem is spot on. Thank you.

Now how do I fix it?

ok you need to trace it from the passenger side to the drivers side and find the open /break in the wire..look at any connector and plug also where they enter the door and flex

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Just when I think I finally have it idiot proof, someone comes along and builds a better idiot..
2011 Ranger XLT 4 door 2x4,4.0 SOHC, Auto, 3.55 Rear. Vista Blue

Just want to add something else. How do I make sure PIN 5 is good with a multimeter? It seems obvious to you, but I don't know what that means? Should it have voltage? Should it not have voltage?

And how do I fix the problem?

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Ok. Which specific wire do I trace? The bl/tan? The Black?
I have no idea what I'm doing.

the tan/lt blue is the problem

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trace the bl/tan

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Just when I think I finally have it idiot proof, someone comes along and builds a better idiot..
2011 Ranger XLT 4 door 2x4,4.0 SOHC, Auto, 3.55 Rear. Vista Blue

Ok. I was just poking around in there. It seems like the wires go up under the dashboard.

I don't have to remove the dashboard do I? Because that's not happening.

If not, how exactly do I trace the wire? Do I use a toner? the eyeball test? I removed the plugs where the wires from the door enter the truck on each side. How do I check faults?

no you do not have to remove the dash.. and sometimes just reconnecting the plugs may fix it could be a dirty or loose connection.. look at the pins for tan/blu are they corroded or dirty do the same test at both sides oh the plugs.. see it tan goes hot when u push the switch then go to the other door and check at both sides of that plug then at the drivers side switch.. till u locate the section the problem is in.

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Just when I think I finally have it idiot proof, someone comes along and builds a better idiot..
2011 Ranger XLT 4 door 2x4,4.0 SOHC, Auto, 3.55 Rear. Vista Blue

Thank you for your help. I've officially given up. I just don't care anymore. I'm destroying my truck so I can open a window that I don't care about opening. It makes no sense.

I appreciate your trying to help me, but there is such a difference in knowledge between you and I that I don't understand the directions. I don't know how to test if it's hot. I don't know what to put where to test if it's hot. I just don't get it. I'm putting the screws back in everything and I'm done. Just don't care. Thank you though, I do appreciate you trying to help me. I'm just not a car guy.

you can always run a new wire if you absolutely can't find it ..

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Just when I think I finally have it idiot proof, someone comes along and builds a better idiot..
2011 Ranger XLT 4 door 2x4,4.0 SOHC, Auto, 3.55 Rear. Vista Blue