Is there a way to test my Voltage Regulator?

bmp863 · #1 11-12-2011, 07:15 PM

And, if it's bad would I be better off getting a whole new alternator since its not that much more expensive?

I did have the alternator itself tested at AutoZone, but I'm researching my issues online, and just about everythings pointing towards Voltage Regulator.

73ckn797 · #2 11-27-2011, 09:50 AM

What are the symptoms? Did the AutoZone check reveal anything? A simple test is to put a volt meter to the battery with the vehicle running. Anything below 13.50 volts indicates insufficient alternator output. Depending on the mileage, if it is high, replacing the alternator is typically the best remedy.

pooleo · #3 11-27-2011, 10:54 AM

Start your truck. Remove positve battery cable. If truck dies, your alternator is bad. If truck does not die, alternator is fine. While truck is running with cable removed, turn on headlights. If truck dies, voltage regulator is bad. In either scenario, alternator will have to be replaced, as the VR is inside the alternator.

FireRanger · #4 11-29-2011, 06:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pooleo

Start your truck. Remove positve battery cable. If truck dies, your alternator is bad. If truck does not die, alternator is fine. While truck is running with cable removed, turn on headlights. If truck dies, voltage regulator is bad. In either scenario, alternator will have to be replaced, as the VR is inside the alternator.

No, do not do that. Ever. Unless you want to fry expensive parts. I don't know why I have to keep saying this. Nor is this an indication of a VR working properly or not. It tells you absolutely nothing about anything. The VR is attached to the alternator and can be replaced. They cost $45-$55.

If the VR is remarkably cheaper than the alternator, give it a shot. If it fixes the problem, you're golden. If it does not, return the VR and buy the new alternator. Just make sure you can return it first.

pooleo · #5 11-29-2011, 06:54 PM

this is a valid way to test if your alternator or VR is faulty. Please explain how doing this can fry expensive parts....?

I can see your back to "phishing for trouble" again...lmao

FireRanger · #6 11-29-2011, 07:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pooleo

this is a valid way to test if your alternator or VR is faulty. Please explain how doing this can fry expensive parts....?

I can see your back to "phishing for trouble" again...lmao

This is absolutely not a valid way to test anything. And it does not prove or disprove anything at all. And if you think trying to help someone troubleshoot their problem correctly and not break things is "phishing for trouble", the problem is you, not me. The battery acts as a buffer, a power supply, and a load. Just blindly removing that from the circuit can cause voltage transients that will damage expensive electronic components. If you want to take that risk with your own stuff, knock yourself out. But I'm not going let other people do it.

dnewman633 · #7 11-29-2011, 07:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pooleo

Start your truck. Remove positive battery cable. If truck dies, your alternator is bad. If truck does not die, alternator is fine. While truck is running with cable removed, turn on headlights. If truck dies, voltage regulator is bad. In either scenario, alternator will have to be replaced, as the VR is inside the alternator.

Do not do this. By doing this you do not have a complete circuit for you charging system. Back when cars had a "generator" on them this was a valid test. What can and does happen in some cases is that you will fry the PCM .I don't know about this alternator but on some of the ford alternators the voltage regulator is bolted to the back of the alternator and can be replaced separately for the alternator.

PS I am Automotive electrical systems certified in Michiagn and ASE certified also...

FireRanger · #8 11-29-2011, 08:04 PM

Oh boy. Another one phishing for trouble by proving sound advice...

pooleo · #9 11-29-2011, 08:28 PM

Never heard of something being damaged by removing the battery cable.

FireRanger · #10 11-29-2011, 08:35 PM

Well now you have. And it would still tell you absolutely nothing about which of the many many many many components is causing the problem. It would only tell you that there is no power. And you already know that.

pooleo · #11 11-29-2011, 08:38 PM

oooooooookay.

Start truck. Remove battery cable. Truck dies. Alternator bad. Truck runs, turn on lights, truck dies. Voltage regulator bad.

Its as simple as that. OP is not diagnosing a ghost electrical problem. OP asked how to check VR, this test will surely give you a damn good idea

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You can provide some hard evidence of your claim, otherwise, I will rely on my many years of automotive experience.

dnewman633 · #12 11-29-2011, 08:59 PM

Pooleo, I'll make a deal with you. I will be in Toledo, Ohio on Dec. 23. Why dont we meet at Battery wholesale on Alexis road (anytime you want) and we will ask people who work on auto electrical systems and find out who is right and who is wrong on this issue. If you are right I will come back here and tell everyone that you are right. If myself and fireranger are right you will come back here and do the same. Do we have a deal????

pooleo · #13 11-29-2011, 09:30 PM

what! you want me to drive 4 hours to toledo! lmao...I'll pass

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perhaps on some foreign car or a 2011 vehicle the battery need to be connected at all times. But a vehicle, especially a ranger that has simple electronics, can and will idle without a battery. You may notice if you attemp to drive it, it may want to stall out. But for the sake of a test, no harm what so ever.

FireRanger · #14 11-29-2011, 09:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pooleo

oooooooookay.

Start truck. Remove battery cable. Truck dies. Alternator bad. Truck runs, turn on lights, truck dies. Voltage regulator bad.

Its as simple as that

That is completely wrong. There is not a shred of valid factual basis for a word of anything you have said. That isn't how it works, at all. Please stop.

Quote:

Originally Posted by pooleo

OP is not diagnosing a ghost electrical problem. OP asked how to check VR, this test will surely give you a damn good idea

No it will not give you an idea of anything. Actually I take that back. It will tell you you're following bad advice from someone who has no clue what he's babbling about. There are about 10 different things that could cause a lack of power from the alternator and removing the battery tells you NOTHING about anything.

Your insistence on providing potentially damaging and expensive bad advice is very troubling.

Quote:

Originally Posted by pooleo

You can provide some hard evidence of your claim, otherwise, I will rely on my many years of automotive experience.

Many years of experience doesn't mean crap when you've been wrong for many years. If the guy who is certified and paid to know these answers isn't proof enough, and this electrical nerd aren't enough, then it is obvious that you don't actually care about fact vs fiction. I'm sure the OP can read this thread and anyone with half a brain will know who to trust.

Quote:

Originally Posted by pooleo

perhaps on some foreign car or a 2011 vehicle the battery need to be connected at all times. But a vehicle, especially a ranger that has simple electronics, can and will idle without a battery. You may notice if you attemp to drive it, it may want to stall out. But for the sake of a test, no harm what so ever.

Wrong. Completely. Again, nobody that values their vehicle should be following any of this "advice".

pooleo · #15 11-29-2011, 09:44 PM

Go ahead and list the 10 things that can cause lack of power from the alternator. Its simple, the alternator turns, it puts out power. If you remove the battery and the truck dies, the alternator is not putting out enough power.

Man your a piece of work, always think your right on everything.

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Im still waiting to hear about those things that can "fry" from removing the battery cable.

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There may be vehicles that require a battery hooked up to run, the ranger is not one of them.