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  #1  
Old 07-22-2011, 02:16 PM
michiganboy michiganboy is offline
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Default alternaitor trouble

Started with a battery light... didn't think much of it cause I have had connection problems before... truck died out at my moms when I turned it off for about 4 minutes and had to jump it to get to work. It died out at work when I went to leave.

Tested the battery it was at zero. It turned over so that ment it wasn't the starter. It was just not recharging the battery. I bought a new alternaitor and put it in and drove up to auto zone cause the battery light was still on. He tested the old one on the machine... it came out bad. He tested the new one on the truck and it came out bad. I pull the new one out and have him test it on the machine and it comes out good.

I get home and in the middle of all this I realize my ground wire from my block to the firewall area is cut completely in half. I rig something up to get it working again and still the battery light persists. I am lost at what it could be draining my battery? Only when my car is driving or on does it drain too.

Any sugestions?
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  #2  
Old 07-23-2011, 03:47 AM
TenSilver TenSilver is offline
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Default Re: alternaitor trouble

Replace bad ground cable and battery.
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  #3  
Old 07-23-2011, 05:44 AM
FireRanger FireRanger is offline
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Default Re: alternaitor trouble

If the battery light is on, that means you alternator is not generating electricity. Something is wrong with the wiring at the battery or at the alternator if it tests ok on the bench. It is also possible the battery is completely toast which would cause enough of a drop cause the alternator to not get field current. You said the battery had zero volts????
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  #4  
Old 07-25-2011, 01:24 PM
michiganboy michiganboy is offline
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Default Re: alternaitor trouble

The battery was at zero but oriellies charged it Then I drove the thing home.
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  #5  
Old 07-25-2011, 02:02 PM
FireRanger FireRanger is offline
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Default Re: alternaitor trouble

A battery reading 0 volts will not be recharged. If was at zero (like really actually zero), then it is physically damaged inside and will not work.
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  #6  
Old 07-26-2011, 03:56 AM
TenSilver TenSilver is offline
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Default Re: alternaitor trouble

^ Right! ^
Sounds like a dead cell in the battery. A battery with a dead cell will charge but won't hold a charge. It will just go down again.

Replace the battery.
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  #7  
Old 07-26-2011, 04:19 AM
michiganboy michiganboy is offline
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Default Re: alternaitor trouble

I fixxed it. I read the haynes manual and figured out how toread the electrical sheet. Figured out it was fuse 15a... which I thought I cheched. Guess I didn't. I think I had a bad alternaitor but when switching the new one I busted the fuse. It is all making since now
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  #8  
Old 07-26-2011, 07:15 AM
TenSilver TenSilver is offline
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Default Re: alternaitor trouble

^^ Good news! Glad you got it fixed! ^^
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  #9  
Old 07-27-2011, 02:43 PM
Lugarmyboy Lugarmyboy is offline
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Default Re: alternaitor trouble

Go to a auto parts store and buy a volt/amp load meter ($20.00) before you buy anything. With engine off, Clamp meter on battery,( - black to black and red to red + ) should read 12 volts. With engine off, throw the load switch on meter and hold until wire elements in meter glow, should hold stedy at 400 - 800 amps. If either reading is not up to par, take off battery caps ( some times under a sticker on top of battery ) check to see if acid solution is up to the bottom of filler ports on baterry. Don,t worry if battery says maintance free. there is no such thing. if low, fill with ordinary tap water ( not recommened by manufacture but it will do) and put caps on. Charge battery with the lowest possiable charge on battery charger for a least three hours. Do not smoke or introduce any kind of flame when chargeing battery. When you pass electicity thru water it seperates the atoms (H2O) in the water and vents out of the battery. Hydrogen and Oxygen, same stuff they put the space shuttle into orbit ( very explosive ).

After chargeing battery with engine off, recheck voltage reading should read 12 volts or higher, no less. next flip the the load switch and hold till elements glow( about 10 seconds ), should hold between 400 and 800 amps. Its OK if it starts out high and drops as long as it does not fall below 400 amps. The higher the amps hold the stronger and higher Quality battery. If voltage or amp reading is not within these specifications, replace battery.

After checking and replacing battery if needed, start engine and check voltage. Voltage should read 14 -15 volts respectively. Any lower or higher alternater is not funtioning properly. If it is lower than 14 - 15 volts then you are useing the electricity in the battery to power the engine and related componets. If it is any higher then 14 - 15 volts then the internal voltage regulator is burnt out and alternater should be replaced.

If it is lower before replacing remove alternater from vehicale and bring it to a auto parts store. Most stores will check the alternator for free or a small fee, to see if it is working properly. If it is not working properly then replace it. Warning, Always disconnect negetive terminal ( Black ) from battery first, before removing alternater. If you don,t you can ether cause a fire,explosion of the battery or at the very least damage the electrical system permeantly!

If it is working properly then you have a wireing problem. Reinstall the alternater and using a multi meter, check that you are getting 12 volts on the field wire ( Large single Red wire )from the fuse box on the driver side fender under the hood to the battery and from fuse box to the back of the alternator. Put The pos terminal of a multi meter ( 30 volt scale DC ) on the field wire (large single red wire) on the back of the alternater. Put the negetive lead on bare metal of the frame of car. If voltage is not 12 volts than you have a fault in the field wire between then fuse box and the alternator. Remove the fuse for the field wire and useing the multi meter to check if you have 12 volts on one side of fuse holder. If you don't, use the multi meter ( set on continuity ) and check the fuse. if good check the field wire from the out bound side of fuse holder to the alternator for continuity. If good then useing the multi meter set to DC 30 volt scale check the field wire from the in bound side of the fuse box. If you don't have 12 volts, check the field wire at fuse box, for continuity, from in bound side of field wire back to where the field wire is spliced to the red Pos cable of the battery. If good, un-tape splice at battery on positive cable. you will see a smaller wire at the end of field wire where it meets the positive cable. This is a fuseable link wich protects the field wire from over load. Check for continuity on fusable link. You must seperate the field wire from the fuseable link first.

If the fuseable link is good reconnect. Before i tell you what to check next i need to give you a 101 class on how electricity is generated in a generater or alternator. Please be patient with me. To generate electricity you ethier have to rotate a copper coil around a magnetic field ( ie Magnets ) or rotate a magnetic field around a copper coil. Alternaters do not have magnets in them so you have to create a magnetic field for the copper coil to rotate around to generate electricity.
When you pass a electric current through a coil of copper wire, a magenetic field is created around the coil. In a alternater a small coil Called the primary coil or winding is energized when you turn the key on creating a magnetic field. A second much larger coil called the secondary coil or winding rotates around the smaller primary coil induceing a large current (60,100 amps ect. ) into the larger secondary coil, which is connected to your field wire which in turn charges your battery and replaces any power be used by the engine and accessaries.

So we now must check to see if you have 12 volts going to the smaller primary coil. On the back of your alternater ( I have a 97 ranger and the positive wire of the primary coil is yellow with a green stripe), there is a two smaller wires next the field wire. Turn the key on and check the primary coil wire for 12 volts. If you do not have 12 volts, use the same procedures to check for any faults in the primary wire leading from the alternator back to the fuse box under the hood.

And that is that! I hope I did not confuse anybody. I also hope that this information will help you solve your problem. Good LucK.
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  #10  
Old 07-27-2011, 07:39 PM
FireRanger FireRanger is offline
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Default Re: alternaitor trouble

Can you please stop going in every electrical thread an copy/pasting that lengthy procedure that has nothing to do with the problems at hand.


Quote:
Originally Posted by michiganboy View Post
I fixxed it. I read the haynes manual and figured out how toread the electrical sheet. Figured out it was fuse 15a... which I thought I cheched. Guess I didn't. I think I had a bad alternaitor but when switching the new one I busted the fuse. It is all making since now
hahahahhahahahh. Sorry. It's funny. There is a fuse # 15a. 15a is the amp rating... 15 amps. There are several of them. However, the one you popped would be the 15 amp alternator fuse.
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Last edited by FireRanger; 07-28-2011 at 05:39 AM.
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  #11  
Old 07-28-2011, 05:05 AM
michiganboy michiganboy is offline
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Default Re: alternaitor trouble

I bro back down but the battery light was off. I broke down at my buddys motor sports shop so I had his dad gimme a hand. We finally figured it out its the positive wire is not getting power. We bypassed it and ran a wire straight from thepositive on the alternaitor to the posi on the battery.. I have to fish a new wire through and connect it. Thanks for the help guys means a lot. FRF FTW!
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  #12  
Old 07-28-2011, 05:43 AM
FireRanger FireRanger is offline
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Default Re: alternaitor trouble

There should be a fusible link on the primary power wire from the alternator right where it connects to the under hood power distribution box. You can cut out that fusible link and splice in a new one (or any inline fuse of sufficient capacity) and be up and running. No need to replace the entire wire most likely. If you get a nice big 150 amp inline fuse, that should do the trick. A lot easier than running all new heavy gauge wire.
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