MAP sensor existence?

[Rangerlove]

This is a '91 2.3L EFI Ranger S 2WD made in 06/91.

I haven't been able to find mine. The access port into the plenum where everyone says it should be is empty, so is the access port in the middle (which I figured anyway, but why not try...)
Some guys say the sensor is on top of the heater core and you either have to remove the dash, or remove the entire heating apparatus to get to it.
I've also read that if your truck says "Solely for sale in the state of California." it will have a MAF and not a MAP.
Still others say you can have both.

I need some clearing up before I rip the passenger-side of my truck open possibly for no apparent reason (plastic pieces never go back together right and you always end up with a rattle).

I've been hunting and pecking at this because it smokes like a Banshee, idles rough, and misses. All common problems to a faulty MAP sensor. I just can't find it. I'm starting to think I only have a MAF.

I cleaned my MAF with Brakleen at the recommendation of a mechanic and the smoke noticeably decreased and the idle turned to a barely noticeable quiver, which I've heard is common for 4-bangers, though mine never did it before. I could be hyper sensitive because I've been sitting in it trying to time the miss and feeling for every little bump.

I just replaced the head with a brand new one, lapped valves, new guides, new seats, entirely new seals along the intake route.

I checked the breather tube for leaks, as well as every line I could see with a soapy water solution and a paint brush (how I was taught to do it) and everything was fine and dandy. So I got out the trust vacuum gauge and went to town and everything was also fine.

The valve cover has insane vacuum and actually sucks oil up into the throttle body, and the PCV line also has a ton of vacuum, but that's normal.

I cleaned my oil separator thinking it was causing backpressure, but it's entirely the opposite.

I'll clean my IAC later, having that stuck open can be a really bad problem, too. When I unplug it at idle, nothing changes...

I got a code for my ECT and my O2 sensor, replaced those, still getting a code for my ECT. I've got about 12 ohms of resistance on the ECT harness and about 30 on the ECT.

Thanks!

[FireRanger]

All rangers since the mid 80's with fuel injection have had MAF sensors. I don't think any rangers have ever had MAP sensors, since the MAF is doing the same thing and more accurately.

[Rangerlove]

Oh, I've also noticed while pricing MAP sensors (euuuuughhhh) that I keep getting results for a little round one that resembles an ECT sensor, but has a slightly different plug. It's located on the upper intake manifold by the fuel injectors. Not sure what it is...some sort of ambient air temperature sensor? Could that be my MAP sensor? It doesn't have a vacuum line going to it.

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Well, that's my thought, FireRanger. I have been cruising explorer and Bronco II forums with similarly sized engines (2.5, 2.9) and they're always talking about MAPs.

If there is only a MAF that's really easy to get to and I can fix this in a jiff with a junkyard part or by cleaning it more thoroughly (couldn't get the security screws off, but sprayed liberally anyway).

Just got done cleaning the IAC, a lot of black stuff dripped out, so I'll let you know about that in about 10 minutes.

[Rangerlove]

Well, it sounds better idling with a clean IAC, but as soon as you rev the engine it billows out smoke and then acts like it wants to die. I dunno what else it could be. Guess I'll try a new MAF.

The dying part is a new symptom since I replaced the O2 and ECT sensors.

When I unplug the IAC nothing changes. Maybe the electronic part is just stupid.