12V+ near passenger headlight?

TrainedTiger · #1 09-10-2011, 01:22 PM

Anybody know of a +12V constant near the passenger side headlight?

djfllmn · #2 09-10-2011, 01:23 PM

could just go to the headlight power wire...thats a 12V constant

Christianguy · #3 09-10-2011, 01:31 PM

You might be able to locate the original
Fog light harness as well

sheltonfilms · #4 09-10-2011, 01:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TrainedTiger

Anybody know of a +12V constant near the passenger side headlight?

Whats this for? If you want a wire that is hot during run you can use one of the cruise control servo wires. RED/Light Green which is pin 7 on the cruise connector.

TrainedTiger · #5 09-10-2011, 02:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sheltonfilms

Whats this for? If you want a wire that is hot during run you can use one of the cruise control servo wires. RED/Light Green which is pin 7 on the cruise connector.

It is for a relay for an air horn. I would like it to be 12V at all times, so I can blow the horn with the key off.

sheltonfilms · #6 09-10-2011, 02:31 PM

Why don't you run a descent size gauge wire straight from the battery to the two power pins on the relay. One that is switched and one that activates. Then run the ground wire to the switch inside and have it ground the relay. Then run the other ground side to the horn.
Of course put a fuse as close to the battery as possible.

If you don't run a big enough gauge to the horn its not gonna sound good at all. I found this out 10 years ago when I wired up my calvary charge horns using like a 20 gauge wire.

If you are going to the meet in Knoxville, you can bring the relay, wires and connectors and I'll wire it up for ya.

TrainedTiger · #7 09-10-2011, 02:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sheltonfilms

Why don't you run a descent size gauge wire straight from the battery to the two power pins on the relay. One that is switched and one that activates. Then run the ground wire to the switch inside and have it ground the relay. Then run the other ground side to the horn.
Of course put a fuse as close to the battery as possible.

If you don't run a big enough gauge to the horn its not gonna sound good at all. I found this out 10 years ago when I wired up my calvary charge horns using like a 20 gauge wire.

If you are going to the meet in Knoxville, you can bring the relay, wires and connectors and I'll wire it up for ya.

I'm using 14 gauge, I tested it by hot wiring to the battery and it worked pretty well. I've already mounted and wired everything except the final 12V+ constant, I got a few fat wires going down the passenger fender, one major color blue, one major color green, but I don't know what they are, I'm betting they are hot AAT because they are 12 guage though.

sheltonfilms · #8 09-10-2011, 02:48 PM

Not necessarily, gauge just means how much current that it can handle, doesn't mean squat if its hot or not. Can you post a pic?

Describe your wiring a little bit more.

TrainedTiger · #9 09-10-2011, 03:29 PM

sheltonfilms · #10 09-10-2011, 04:21 PM

I would just run a fused wire straight from the battery terminal. Those air horn compressors pull a pretty good amount of current and I wouldn't pull that much current from a factory harness wire.

TrainedTiger · #11 09-10-2011, 06:23 PM

That's what I ended up doing rather than mess with unpacking and repacking the loom and testing wires and all that junk. I hid the wires pretty well though. It sure does use some power, I used a 12 gauge fusible link capable of a 24A fuse. I tried a 15A first and after a couple blasts it blew the 15A, on a 20A though I've done like a 10 second blast and it didnt blow the fuse.

New horn forum post!