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  #1  
Old 09-21-2009, 02:55 PM
FRTruckNut FRTruckNut is offline
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Default Repair your cruise control, 94 xlt

I recently repaired my cruise control. The problem was with the amplifier module located above the glove box.

1. open glove box, unclip and lower all the way for access.
2. unplug module, remove screws, pull out module.
3. pop it open and remove the circuit board.
4. resolder all connections with rosin core solder.
5. clean with isopropyl alcohol or flux remover until all the flux is removed.
6. replace module and plug it in.

YMMV
Good luck with yours.
Chris
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  #2  
Old 02-22-2010, 05:41 PM
alabamafrog alabamafrog is offline
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Default

I took mine apart and looked at it today, all of the solder points looked good to me, I couldn’t “see” anything wrong with it.
When my cruise went out it start by kicking off a fem minutes into my daily drive, then it got intermittent where it might work one day then not work for weeks or months then work again. Now it hasn’t worked but once in the last 6 months.
I have followed the directions in the factory service manual and tested the resistance on the wires that go to the switches and tested the clutch and brake switch, the next step in the manual was to change the amplifier box with a known good one, however, they are expensive to just swap out.
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Old 03-11-2010, 04:46 AM
diegodraw diegodraw is offline
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Default Re: Repair your cruise control, 94 xlt

opened up the door glove and so has the air bag where can I find the cruise control module and serial number which it ranger stx 97
help me
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Old 03-13-2010, 09:27 AM
alabamafrog alabamafrog is offline
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Default Re: Repair your cruise control, 94 xlt

I finally got cruise control working again. Long story short I swapped out the little green box that behind the dash above the glove box. Its some sort of amplifier board. It was real easy to change, 2 plugs and 4 screws and I got one for $10 from a guy that was parting out his old ranger.
Now maybe I can start being happy to drive little red again after years of aggravation!
I use cruise all the time and can’t stand not having it.
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Old 08-25-2010, 08:05 AM
alabamafrog alabamafrog is offline
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Default Re: Repair your cruise control, 94 xlt

FYI, Rock auto parts sells a new reman cruise control module for like $65, the used one I bought for my truck worked for about a month then it died too, the auto parts stores wanted like $300 for the exact same one Rock sells for like $65.
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****My Pics****

1994 Ford Ranger 4.0L 5spd ext cab, stock
1999 Ford F-250SD Powerstroke 4x4, no where near stock
1969 Ford F-100 360, stock
1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee, stock
2000 John Deere 4700 4x4
1956 John Deere 60
1951 John Deere MT
1948 John Deere A
1947 John Deere A
Etc.

“Government, even in its best state, is but a necessary evil; in its worst state, an intolerable one”

The Government cannot give anyone anything that they didn’t first forcibly take from someone else!
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  #6  
Old 01-09-2012, 03:46 PM
prince prince is offline
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Default Re: Repair your cruise control, 94 xlt

Following FRTruckNut's directions above I looked for a crack in the board circuitry. I didn't see anything but I took it to my friend who is a retired electronic technician. He used a jeweler's magnifying glass and found a tiny crack. He resoldered it there and it is now working fine. So use the highest magnification you can to inspect the integrity of the circuits on the board.
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Old 02-09-2012, 05:45 AM
riverrunnernky riverrunnernky is offline
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Default Re: Repair your cruise control, 94 xlt

Great thread, I will try this all on my 94 4.0
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  #8  
Old 07-03-2012, 01:24 PM
justinlogue5_0 justinlogue5_0 is offline
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Default Re: Repair your cruise control, 94 xlt

I know this is an old thread but I found this and it really helped me so I thought I would share incase some one else needs it.




To test, use a 12 volt testlight and check the 10 amp fuse, #6, in the interior fuse box. If blown, replace and recheck operation. If the fuse is OK, gain access to the Speed Control Amplifier (AMP) behind glove box opening and check for power at pin 4, Dark Blue/Light Green wire, of the small connector. If no power, repair the open between fuse and AMP. If OK, check the grounds at the Pink/Orange and Black wires of the small connector and repair as needed. If OK, go to step 3.


To test, verify the Stop Lamp operation with the brake pedal applied. If there are no Stop Lamps, check for voltage to the Stop Lamp Switch on the Light Green/Red wire. If no voltage, test and replace the 15 amp stop lamp fuse in the interior fuse box or repair the open circuit as needed and recheck the system operation. If OK, check for voltage out of the Stop Lamp Switch on the Light Green wire with the brakes applied. If no voltage, replace the Stop Lamp Switch and retest. If OK, test the Light Green wire at Pin 6 of the small connector at the Speed Control Amplifier (AMP) with the brakes applied. If no voltage is present, repair the open in the circuit from the Stop Lamp Switch to AMP. If OK, go to step 4.


To test, verify proper speedometer operation. If inoperative, refer to available resources for speedometer diagnostics. If OK, backprobe pin 3, Grey/Black wire, at the small connector at the Speed Control Amplifier (AMP) with a digital voltmeter set on AC volts. Raise the rear of the vehicle and monitor AC volts as the vehicle is accelerated to 30 and 45 MPH. Typical AC volts at 30 MPH would be greater than 2.5 volts with a minimum spec of 1.4 volts. At 45 MPH, expect to see at least 3.2 volts with a minimum spec of 1.6. If no or low voltage, replace the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) and recheck operation. If OK, go to step 5.

NOTE: all values may vary plus or minus 0.5 volts. To test, use a digital voltmeter and backprobe pin 5, Light Blue/Black wire, in the small connector at the Speed Control Amplifier (AMP). With the key on and no switches depressed, check for a reference voltage of about 7.8 volts. Next depress and hold the On button. Voltage should read about battery voltage. Depressing the Coast button should read 1.7 volts, Set/Accel should read 4.5 volts, Resume should read 6.3 volts and Off should drop to 0.0 volts. If any readings vary greatly, replace the Speed Control Switches and retest. If OK, go to step 6.


To test, with engine at idle backprobe the White/Pink and Grey/Black wires in the large connector at the Speed Control Amplifier (AMP) and check for battery voltage. If no battery voltage is present, unhook the connector and check the servo circuit continuity. Start with 1 lead on the Orange/Yellow wire and the other on the White/Pink wire. This reading should be between 60-190 Ohms. The next reading would be Orange/Yellow wire to Grey/Black wire. This should read 40-125 Ohms. High or open readings indicate a harness or servo fault. Go to step 7. If voltage is present, with the engine at idle and using a paper clip, jump the White/Pink wire to the Grey/Black wire. Next, hook a jumper wire to the paper clip and MOMENTARILY tap the other end to ground. The engine should accelerate rapidly. If there is no change, go to step 7. If OK, replace the AMP and retest operation.


To test the servo resistance, remove the connector and locate the terminals that the Orange/Yellow, White/Pink and Grey/Black wires connect to. Using an ohmmeter, recheck the servo resistance using the values listed in step 6. If OK, repair the wire harness concern. If servo resistance is out of range, replace the servo. If directed here from step 6 due to no acceleration but resistance values are OK, test for manifold vacuum to the servo. Locate the vacuum hose leading to the dump valve on the brake pedal and verify it is sealed. If all OK, replace the servo or cable and retest.
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