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  #31  
Old 01-25-2011, 08:08 PM
ranger101 ranger101 is offline
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Default Re: Battery setups

I'm the only one that works on my truck. Especially my audio stuff. Plus if anybody who DID work on my system would use some common sense and look at the top of the battery they would clearly see which terminal is the positive terminal and which one is the negative terminal. I get that you're trying to call me out and say that I have no idea what I'm talking about but honestly, you don't have anything to call me out for. A sealed battery in the cab isn't a hazard. Using red wires for both positive and negative terminals isn't an issue.
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  #32  
Old 01-25-2011, 08:10 PM
FireRanger FireRanger is offline
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Default Re: Battery setups

I'm not trying to call you out on anything. If you think using red wire for positive and negative is all fine and normal, then I don't need to call you out. You're announcing it on your own.
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  #33  
Old 01-25-2011, 11:11 PM
buggman buggman is offline
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Default Re: Battery setups

Actually there are good points to me made there.

Red is the standard color for positive wiring while Black is the standard for negative wiring.
While not essential to follow the color coding (just look at my blue wiring for example) it is a good idea to at least use a red/black indicator on both ends of each wire to eliminate any confusion.
Simply wrapping the ends of the wires with an inch or so of red/black electrical tape or using a red/black cable tie would suffice.
Remember, in the event some retard (sorry to any retards out there) messes around in your vehicle & doesn't know which is which a problem will surely arise.

The upgraded alternator would also be quite beneficial. Your OEM alternator is designed to replenish your battery & power the OEM accessories and not too much more. When you add the increased load of a large amplifier or two it will be all the alternator can do to keep up with charging the battery. When you add a 2nd battery on top of that, your poor alternator probably won't be able to keep either battery fully charged all the time.
Some people can get by with their OEM alternator with a 2 battery setup, but it will greatly shorten the life of the alternator. Sooner or later it will finally give up & need to be replaced with one with more power output to feed the electrical needs.
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  #34  
Old 01-26-2011, 05:29 AM
ranger101 ranger101 is offline
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Default Re: Battery setups

Quote:
Originally Posted by buggman View Post
Remember, in the event some retard (sorry to any retards out there) messes around in your vehicle & doesn't know which is which a problem will surely arise.
Nobody messes with my audio stuff for any reason. I know which one is positive and which one is negative therefor, it's not a problem.

Quote:
Originally Posted by buggman View Post
Sooner or later it will finally give up & need to be replaced with one with more power output to feed the electrical needs.
And when mine goes out, I'll be upgrading haha
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  #35  
Old 06-07-2012, 03:52 PM
buggman buggman is offline
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Default Re: Battery setups

This thread needs a bump!

Question:
Would it be OK to install a marine style deep cycle battery inside the cab?
I'm not sure if the deep cycle marine batteries have any vents or if they'd have any issues with off-gassing.

I know it's generally not a good idea to have batteries inside the cab unless they're gel or sealed, but a while back I had to replace the battery on my neighbor's car & it was mounted under the rear seat with no additional venting or protection. That's the first OEM setup like that I've seen, but it WAS in a GM car.

I'm looking into adding a 2nd battery & isolator sometime but there isn't any room under the hood & I really didn't want to mount it in my tool box, so in the cab may be the last resort location.
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  #36  
Old 06-07-2012, 04:08 PM
FireRanger FireRanger is offline
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Default Re: Battery setups

It being a marine battery won't have any effect on it being sealed or physically better. It is just the chemistry. They are designed for lots and lots of cycling. Typical boat use is a quick start, charge while cruising, then engine off / accessories on while floating. Then repeat. They're designed to handle that kind of abuse better than a normal starting or normal deep cycle battery.

Presuming this new battery will be for isolated engine-off accessories, a yellow top is what you should be using. As long as you properly wire it, and make it VERY secure, it will be fine.
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  #37  
Old 06-07-2012, 04:35 PM
buggman buggman is offline
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Default Re: Battery setups

I'm thinking of using the existing battery as the starting battery with the new deep cycle/marine battery for powering everything once the truck is running or when it's off.

The optima's don't seem to have as good of a reputation as they used to though... I was thinking either a blue top or just a regular marine battery but seeing as how the optima blue top is in the $200 range, I'm leaning towards a regular marine/deep cycle battery.
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  #38  
Old 06-07-2012, 04:42 PM
FireRanger FireRanger is offline
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Default Re: Battery setups

Most other major battery manufacturers make deep cycle batteries not specifically for marine use. You do not need marine, you just need deep cycle. You can get that with a marine battery, but it would be better if you get one made for normal deep cycle use.
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  #39  
Old 06-08-2012, 12:27 AM
buggman buggman is offline
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Default Re: Battery setups

Yeah, I guess I'm using marine & deep cycle terms interchangeably... I was looking at a battery that had "for marine, trolling & RV use" "deep discharge design"
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  #40  
Old 06-08-2012, 03:08 AM
FireRanger FireRanger is offline
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Default Re: Battery setups

Ya that would be fine.
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  #41  
Old 06-08-2012, 01:01 PM
buggman buggman is offline
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Default Re: Battery setups

Well, I've done a little measuring (battery size & room I have to work with)... I was hoping to be able to modify my already modded rear jump seat location to hold the battery, but the big sucker I looked at is about 3" too long
Looks like I may have to install that big boy in the toolbox instead. The big battery (29DC) was only about $4 more than the regular sized one (24DC), but it has 845ca's where the smaller one only had 690ca.
From what I've read the CA's aren't as important as the amp hour ratings, but none of these had any of that info listed

Amazingly the girl working there actually knew what I was talking about when I mentioned I wanted to run a 2nd deep cycle battery and she even knew the "starting" marine battery wasn't the best choice for what I was looking to do.
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  #42  
Old 06-08-2012, 01:18 PM
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by buggman
The big battery (29DC) (24DC)
are you running 24v to 29v batteries?
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  #43  
Old 06-08-2012, 03:35 PM
FireRanger FireRanger is offline
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Default Re: Battery setups

That's not voltage. It's a group size.

You need to look at the reserve capacity (RC) of the battery. Not the CA or CCA. You aren't using it to crank anything, the measurement is useless.
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  #44  
Old 06-08-2012, 11:07 PM
buggman buggman is offline
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Default Re: Battery setups

Yeah, they're 12v, the other #'s are the class or sizes.

The only thing I found online about them is 125ah @ 1a, but I don't remember which one that was for.

Pretty sure they'll have more than I'll ever need, even if I go with the smallest one. The largest one is like 13" long x 10" tall x 8" wide... that's about 3" longer than my maxx battery is now.

There actually won't be all that much load once the truck is running on the regular battery, just 2,000 watts in amps (maximum draw 90a), 3 sets of driving/fog lights, a few extra horns plus whatever else I happen to hook up to it in the future.
The 1000cca battery I have now has been handling the load with the 200a alternator without issue, but the dual battery mod is something I've had on my mind for a while now.
It's more for the security of knowing I won't run the main battery down while I'm working on or listening to the stereo without the truck running.
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