Actually, the diagram was just for the fogs.
- Power wire to your switch (12v key switched... only gets power when the key is turned on)
- Ground wire for your switch
- Power out from the switch (thru the firewall, a fuse here is a must also) that connects to PIN 86 of the fog lights relay.
- A 30-40a relay (any automotive relay should be ok, check your local auto parts store, they should be less than $5... or I have some)
- Power wire to the relay (fused at the battery)
- Ground wire to the relay
- 12v+ wire out from the relay to the +12v wires of the fogs
- Ground wire from the fogs ground to chassis ground
- if you don't know which wire is key switched, a test light or voltmeter is helpful & cheap
- - - -
For the neons, it will be a little simpler since they won't draw much current & a relay probably won't be needed.
- Power wire to the switch, should be fused
- Ground to the switch
- Power out of the switch, should be fused if it goes thru the firewall
Connect both +12v wires of the neons to the power out wire from the switch.
Connect the ground wires from the neons to a good ground, you could run a wire to the same location the switch is grounded.
You'll need to be careful with this setup for the neons as the switch will have power AT ALL TIMES... meaning if you forget to turn off the switch & go inside for the weekend your battery might be dead when you come back out.
You could connect a relay to a key switched +12v wire to control when the switch gets power, but that may be a bit more complicated than you want to get into.
A relay works kinda like a remote switch. When you supply low current 12v to pin 86 on the relay (and the relay is grounded & has power) the relay supplies high current 12v out thru pin 87.
Most switches are only rated to handle 3 to 5 amps, while most fog lights will draw 20 - 40 amps of power... running 10x the current thru that switch will lead to multiple issues worst of which = FIRE!!
When you use a relay... the switch tells the relay when to give that higher amperage power to whatever you have connected to it. This way, the switch doesn't have to handle a heavy load, just enough to tell the relay "hey, turn on my lights sucker".
For the neons, they're probably only going to need 3 or 4 amps max & a regular switch should handle that with no problem... as long as it's fused properly to prevent any problems.
I know that's a lot to take in & I over-simplified a lot (I'm sure the advanced electrical dudes are gonna ream me a new one) but it's always better to use a fused relay to control high current devices.
$10 in parts could save you from burning your truck to a crisp.