I was going down the road in my truck when the 'door ajar' light came on the dash. the dome light also came on and wouln't turn off. naturally i opened and closed all doors. So I porceed to getting a screwdriver and popping off the dome light. i think i touched a metal part and popped a fuse. checked that too none are popped..... and sugesstions???????

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KEHOE PRODUCTION
Custom front bumper and headache rack
32x11.50r15 goodyear wrangler mt/r
2 ten inch subs and one 12 1000 watts
flowmaster k&n filter and more to come lol

Hi. I have the same problems with my -03 ranger.

Have you fixt it?

You say you think you popped a fuse? why is this? did the dome light go out? and if it did, did the door ajar light go with it?

Often times with the door ajar light, all you have to do is WD-40 the door hinge and slam it many times and repeat.

edit to add: Check both the fuse panel (in cab) and fuse box (under hood)

Fuse #'s vary by year. If it is a 2001~2003, check fuse 26 in the dash fuse panel.

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2003 FX4 Level II, Supercharged 5.0L V8, Headers, Duals
BW4406 manual transfer case, Aussie Locker, Torsen L/S, 4.10's
Bilstein 7100 rezzies, Cadillac/Mustang rear discs, Duff traction bars
Keypad Entry, Lock LEDs, ABS switch, sway bar discos
Heated seats, Explorer EATC, Trip Computer and consoles

2003 XLT 2.3L M5OD-R1 reg cab, 2011 Taurus SEL, 2016 C-MAX Energi Plug-in Hybrid

2001 Ford Ranger ext cab

Alright, similar problem. Initially the dome light and and back-up light would not go out. I read some threads and it looked like the problem was in the door jam. So I sprayed WD-40 in the both door latches, shut and opened multiple times, and repeated....Nothing changed. Next, I took a screw-driver and attempted to remove the dome light. The front 2 screws came off no problem...when I hit the 3rd screw, both lights went out. I found out that screw was a ground. For the time being, I was happy that the lights went out, even though I knew the problem was not fixed...I must have blown a fuse.

When I began driving down the road, I then realized my speedometer, Odometer, and windshield wipers were also out...So I knew I must have blown an important fuse. I researched more and found the fuse connecting all these functions, #26 in the door panel fuse box...I replaced it and "wah-la", everything works again...Unfortunately, back to the original problem...Dome light and back-up light wont go out...what the heck?

This same thing happened to me two days ago and I found this site by doing a search on the problem. The door ajar light would not turn off nor would the dome light so, like the OP, I stuck a screw driver into the dome light to pop the cover off and shorted the thing out. The airbag light came on and the fuel gauge, odometer and speedometer all stopped functioning.

Thanks to this forum I replaced fuse #26 (10amp) and shot a whole bunch of WD into the latch. Problem solved.

Thanks to the OP and all who responded.

So this looks like a common problem. My 03 ranger did the same thing. No speedometer, no wipers, windows won't go all the way down without holding down the button, no dome light and airbag light stays lit. I took it into a mechanic and he followed the short to my instrument cluster? $400 bucks for a new cluster at ford dealership. We figured it was a fuse, tried to replace it but it popped as soon as we put it in. Yah, I think I'm gonna try this WD40 in the latch first. I'm not touching the dome light. I'll follow this up with the results. Thanks for the tips.

Which fuse is it?

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2003 FX4 Level II, Supercharged 5.0L V8, Headers, Duals
BW4406 manual transfer case, Aussie Locker, Torsen L/S, 4.10's
Bilstein 7100 rezzies, Cadillac/Mustang rear discs, Duff traction bars
Keypad Entry, Lock LEDs, ABS switch, sway bar discos
Heated seats, Explorer EATC, Trip Computer and consoles

2003 XLT 2.3L M5OD-R1 reg cab, 2011 Taurus SEL, 2016 C-MAX Energi Plug-in Hybrid

#26. I tried that wd-40 and slamming the door a few times. didn't work. I guess it is the instrument cluster. not happy about having to replace that thing. $400 from the dealer, new. I'm looking for a used one.

It MIGHT be the cluster causing #26 to fail but it could just as easily be the GEM, Restraints Module, the dome light or the Battery Saver Relay.

If you want to do some cheap and simple troubleshooting, try unplugging each of the above one at a time and then insert a new fuse to see if it fails. This will narrow it down so you won't be buying things that you can easily prove are not causing the issue. If none are causing the fuse to fail, then it could be a wiring problem somewhere downstream of 26. Look for a pinched or cut wire shorting to ground or maybe a homebrew audio or GPS installation tapped into the wires.

If you do end up needing hard parts, consider a U-Pull-It or Pick-A-Part type junkyard and you could save 90% or more versus buying new.

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2003 FX4 Level II, Supercharged 5.0L V8, Headers, Duals
BW4406 manual transfer case, Aussie Locker, Torsen L/S, 4.10's
Bilstein 7100 rezzies, Cadillac/Mustang rear discs, Duff traction bars
Keypad Entry, Lock LEDs, ABS switch, sway bar discos
Heated seats, Explorer EATC, Trip Computer and consoles

2003 XLT 2.3L M5OD-R1 reg cab, 2011 Taurus SEL, 2016 C-MAX Energi Plug-in Hybrid

Thanks for the tip. I'm going to try this used speedometer. Hopefully that will be it and I'll be done. It's used and at about the same milage as mine. Being it's only $70 I'm not scoffing at it. $400 was way out of my budget right now. So keep your fingers crossed. My mechanic said he just had to replace another speedometer from a ranger, so I think this is a common issue. But if it doesn't work, I'll try those other ideas. I'm really hoping it's not my stereo grounding out. Grrr!

I have a question for all you jerkoff newbies who come here and ask for advice which is given freely by somebody with knowledge and fifteen other newbies chime in highjacking the thread and you don't listen to that person's advice but go off half ****ed on some hunch, why not just keep throwing parts and money at it instead of heeding good advice. He told you a cheap way to troubleshoot the problem did you listen I don't think so> Good luck with this hope $70.00 speedo solves your problem.

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2000 XLT Ext Cab 2door, 3.0 V6 Flex, 5 speed manual,2WD Kenwood aftermarket stereo Many mods planned just not able now on crutches for 8 more weeks

i love pick-n-pull for this reason. i often find myself buying crap ill never need for cars i dont even own..just cause its so cheap lol.

but im having this exact issue, except mine stemmed from the air bag light flashing, then smoke shortly following coming up through the steering column/cluster. im hoping maybe i can buy a used cluster after testing the other components you suggested and fix it.

if it was smoking and this is a possible known issue...since my inspection of the wiring harness didnt bring up any fried wires (that i could see), is it likely that the cluster shorted and the smoke was from it burning?

gread advice btw, im going to check on those other pieces...sucks not having my weekend vehicle up and running!

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2003 Mazda B3000, auto, extended cab, dual sport, 2x4
2004 Chevy Cavalier, 2dr, supercharged, 5spd, few other mods

"100,000 sperm and you were the fastest?!"

Wow buddy, how bout' some anger management classes. I did try all that and since my mechanic is a trusted friend, he showed me what he was looking at with his electrical current tester AND that "blinking" air bag light, it's actually throwing a code! It throws a 3 then a 9. No brainer there. I'm not some dumba--, mechanically inept chick here. I'm open to all advice. And since I inherited this piece of crap truck, 10 years ago, (it was 6 months old, off the lot.)I've had nothing but problems from the get go. I'll tell you what, my CHEVY NOVA is looking better then this thing. I've never been abandoned so many times with my 71' Nova then with this 03' Ranger. So for you to go off all halfc---ed and being a jerk, that just solidifies my decision to buy a CHEVY. Oh and trying to get a new speedo cluster has proven to be a nightmare on top of it all. Dealer tells me 3 days? It's been 8 weeks and counting, but still no speedo. For some unworldy reason, the dealer no longer manufactures this part and has an outside source that, and I quote my dealer, "is SHADY". I would totally put a used speedo in there but I'm finding out that since this is a common problem, and at 65k miles, I don't want to inhereit another persons speedo problems. So I have been driving around not knowing how fast I'm going, no blinkers and such, waiting on FORD to get their sh-t together. And that used speedo? not only did the idiot send me a 2wd but half the guages didn't work, and he was a total jerk when I returned it, nice. It was his mistake to begin with. So with all your "experience", tell me where I can get a new speedo head/cluster. Please, enlighten me with your "knowledge", cuz I'm at a loss as to why the dealer doesn't make a speedo for a 10 year old truck that's been sold millions of times over. anything? I think NOT.

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rwenzing, thanks so much for the tips. I've tried it all and it came back to the speedo head. I can't do anything now but wait on the dealer.

JulietGrace, did this end up being your cluster?
I have been busy with my other cars and events lately so I havent gotten to my truck. I checked all my fuses 3x over and relays last night, everything was good.

After removing the cluster/dash/radio/etc, I found some wires where the outter sleeve was shaved off behind the radio. I didnt know it, but it turns out the previous owner swapped in an 01 Explorer 6CD changer. Funny..cause I asked him when I was going to buy the truck and he said it was stock. But clear as day says "01 Explorer" on the top of it after I took it out lol. So someone shoved this thing in their and the plugs all look the same from factory like there was no splicing or anything. I figure during installation someone barely capped the wire with the bottom of the metal radio bezel or something and its just now making contact or something.

So anyways, thats where i saw one of the wires sliced a little. The wires were good but just the sleeve was hacked, so I cleaned it up, taped it off, and without the radio back in I just tried another 10A fuse in #26, and POP! I saw the smoke again from around the dash area. But I couldnt pinpoint the source. All the wires again, looked fine as I ran down each one. I couldnt follow the white/tan wire off #26 fuse because it goes into the harness behind the dash.

So I went into the fuse panel in the passenger compartment, and rechecked all fuses.
Went into the engine bay and checked all fuses/relays.
Everything seemed fine.

I put a 15A fuse in #26 because I was running out of 10's (expensive little suckers!), and it didnt pop. I know its higher and you shouldnt, but i just wanted to see if it would pop the fuse after rechecking my other ones. I only had 1 10A left (and I use those LED ones that light up when they blow, pricey). After the 15A one didnt blow and i verified ALL fuses again, I dropped the 10A back into #26. No pop. i did notice however that the truck does not like me messing with fuses or this #26 messes with a setting. Because the truck barely wants to start, it starts up but stumbles bad and acts like its not getting fuel from the pump even though the pump is running. After resetting the fuel pump relay/shutoff a few times and trying to run it, it'll eventually start after messing with it enough. Maybe Im tripping an antitheft deal and after 15-20min it lets it start up..but the filter only has 2,000 miles on it and the pump is in good working order.

So I decided to test what I had now that #26 fuse wasnt popping.
I have speedo now and the restraint light doesnt stay on/flash anymore.
But still no wipers or dome light. I think that allows me to 'maybe' rule out the cluster since the speedometer is working again..? Im going to try to get ahold of some NEW relays for the wiper motor/wiper speed (i believe it was the #45 or #46A/B relays). I have the manual and chiltons, just cant remember off the top of my head.

At this point im willing to just find a replacement cluster at the pick-n-pull if the relays dont work as rwenzing mentioned. The sad part is ive only put just under 4k miles on it since I bought it last July and it just turned 100k miles. Thats nothing in the world of automobiles and its already showing its demons..

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2003 Mazda B3000, auto, extended cab, dual sport, 2x4
2004 Chevy Cavalier, 2dr, supercharged, 5spd, few other mods

"100,000 sperm and you were the fastest?!"