The ultimate Ranger PCB LED Exterior Lighting project - Page 16

Jp7 · #**226** 09-19-2011, 07:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chaosratt

What happens if he got one backwards?
That's a lot of multi-meter checking to find it.

If I got one backwards that string of 4 would not light up when I put power to them. It would reduce the "investigation" to only 4 LEDs. Since superflux have 2 dots on the positive leg its easy to spot them even if you have no source of voltage. Not to mention - I triple check components for correct polarity before I solder.

FireRanger · #**227** 09-19-2011, 08:59 AM

He's too much of a perfectionist to put one in backwards to begin with.

Jp7 · #**228** 10-09-2011, 08:00 PM

Tested my new projectors tonight to make sure everything was set up right before I paint the housings and the shrouds.

Dcrymes99ranger · #**229** 10-09-2011, 08:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jp7

Tested my new projectors tonight to make sure everything was set up right before I paint the housings and the shrouds.

I want pics of the housings itself!!!

DrIftKi7Vg · #**230** 10-09-2011, 08:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jp7

Tested my new projectors tonight to make sure everything was set up right before I paint the housings and the shrouds.

Mini D2S

Jp7 · #**231** 10-09-2011, 08:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dcrymes99ranger

I want pics of the housings itself!!!

They aren't finished yet. They need to be painted. The design is similar to the white 2003 (shown earlier in this thread) but I have mini d2s instead of mini h1.

Quote:

Originally Posted by DrIftKi7Vg

Mini D2S

Yes, with 6000K

DrIftKi7Vg · #**232** 10-09-2011, 08:52 PM

35 or 50w?

Jp7 · #**233** 10-09-2011, 09:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DrIftKi7Vg

35 or 50w?

they are 35w, 50w is overkill - not to mention it's too much heat for the housings.

DrIftKi7Vg · #**234** 10-09-2011, 09:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jp7

they are 35w, 50w is overkill - not to mention it's too much heat for the housings.

Not at all. The guy on the site told me that the D2S will handle the 50w but not the H1's.

DrIftKi7Vg · #**235** 10-09-2011, 10:11 PM

Oh, and since they are D2S, how did you mount them? Because I can't get them that high like that. So I mounted mine using that ATV sealant stuff and it worked wonders. But got into an accident and now have to do them all over again

Jp7 · #**236** 10-10-2011, 03:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DrIftKi7Vg

Oh, and since they are D2S, how did you mount them? Because I can't get them that high like that.

That high like that?

I mounted them in the factory holes.

DrIftKi7Vg · #**237** 10-10-2011, 09:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jp7

That high like that?

I mounted them in the factory holes.

Really? Well my headlamps must not be adjusted right because mine are lower than yours.

Jp7 · #**238** 10-10-2011, 12:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DrIftKi7Vg

Really? Well my headlamps must not be adjusted right because mine are lower than yours.

I used the 2 lower adjustments to obtain extra angle range.

DrIftKi7Vg · #**239** 10-10-2011, 12:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jp7

I used the 2 lower adjustments to obtain extra angle range.

Oh okay, the two bottom adjusters on the headlamps themselves correct? Would you happen to have a picture of what yours look like?

Jp7 · #**240** 10-10-2011, 12:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DrIftKi7Vg

Oh okay, the two bottom adjusters on the headlamps themselves correct? Would you happen to have a picture of what yours look like?

It's the same as what you have if you have factory lights.

Hold the net surface where it attaches to the front panel (Use a pair of pliers) and rotate the threaded rods. The nets will move forward or back on the threads because your spinning them relative to the rod.

You can obtain left/right "pigeontoe" adjustments this same way.