Folks,

I read all of the previous posts on this subject but didn't see an answer to a nagging question I have about the windshield fluid pump.

Subject vehicle is a 2002 Ford Ranger Edge, 3.0L, FFV with 94K miles. Pump stopped working a few weeks ago and started troubleshooting this week. First let me run through all I have done to prevent repeats and duplicate attempts:
1) Checked all fuses in cab and in power distribution box just in case.
2) Stupidly replaced pump thinking that was the issue; it wasn't.
3) Checked pump relay by swapping out with known good wiper relay.
4) Hooked old pump to battery and it kicked over and is working.
5) Listened and put my finger on the pump relay and it is clicking when the washer stem is pressed.
6) Tested DC voltage at the pump connector and not getting anything, even when the stem is pressed. I also tested continuity at the connector and it is showing open.

My question: should 12VDC be present at the connector even when the stem is not pressed or is it only present when the relay closes? My assumption is no but with no continuity, either the relay is open or the pump electrical connector is bad. Any thoughts or ideas are greatly appreciated.

Follow-up on efforts to track down issue with the pump. Forgot about access to Chilton's Repair manuals on Air Force Portal, had complete guide with electrical diagrams and the connector diagram.

1) Tested relay again, definitely can hear relay opening and closing when washer stem is pressed.
2) Diagram shows hot on pin 5 of the relay in accessory or run mode.
3) When relay energizes, it connects pin 5 with pin 3 and 12VDC should flow to Bk/Wh wire on C137 (pump connector).
4) Took relay out of the BJB and tested continuity between pin 3 of the relay socket and pin 1 of C137. Test was good..
5) Did not get to test continuity on ground pin as it started raining, hopefully tomorrow.

So question on voltage present is answered, anyone have suggestions on good ground point to use for test?

Washer Pump Testing Part Three
1) Tested continuity between ground on pump connector and common ground on right headlight - tested good.
2) Took relay out and tested for 12VDC from battery junction box to pump connector - tested good.
3) Using same wire configuration, wired 12VDC to pump and back through ground and turned on ACC, pump worked as expected.
4) Testing has shown that all connections between the battery junction box and the pump connector are good.
5) Gang loaded 5 brand new relays into the BJB and still no washer pump.

Still waiting for someone to chime in and provide any help or point out something I may have missed.

do a voltage drop test across the relay pins 3 and 5 for the washer both activated and not see what it says should be very close to zero when it is activated.

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2011 XLT 4.0

mecman99, thanks for the reply. I tested with both an analog and digital meter and not getting anything across those pins, powered or not. According to the wiring diagram, I should have 12VDC across those pins in Accessory unless the load is being pulled across pins 1 and 2 . I get a steady 12VDC across pins 3 and 5 of the wiper relay in Accessory and that is the same line going to pin 3 of the washer relay. I pulled and reseated the multi-function switch and it is in good shape. I am down to either the GEM or the multi-function switch but any further testing you can recommend is welcome.

I would suggest you PM me if you need help I don't come here often . That being said the switch and gem control the coil pins 1 & 2 (aka the click) the load is 3 and 5 with 5 as the key hot pin. As long as you hear the click from the relay that circuit is probably working. So do not change the multi-function or gem not going to help the missing 12v. Make sure you meter that pin 5 to a good known ground first. If it is still missing then the answer is the missing 12v from pin 5 start tracing the wires going to that terminal according to the print 2 and 5 both hook to the 12v from the fuse. Since they are right next to each other I'd start there. I have had the wire to a relay socket connection have broken strands at the factory crimp to the terminal for a relay. You might have to lift the BJB AFTER you disconnect the battery to see/test it. Long and the short is till you get that 12v back at pin 5 it is not going to work.

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2011 XLT 4.0