1998 XLT Automatic 70k miles,

I have not seen much or any installs of a 433 MHz RF kill switch other than physical Toggle Switches. This is the set up I am preferring-it eliminates a physical TS that may or not be discovered and use of a key fob to arm/disarm the wireless switch is naturally seamless to a DD activities.

Suggestions I have seen is to just install a TS inline with to Inertia Switch. I am not an electrician but a weekend afternoon under the tree DIY guy. But I am comfortable following pro's instructions. Looking at the IS the wires are the thin types which makes me think a 30 amp switch is not required for this setup, since you are not switching the fuel pump itself directly, but a simple Toggle switch, is that correct?

The RF switch I am eyeing is 12v 10 amps. Is this sufficient while maintaining safety, basically not introducing a fire hazard?

ADDING INTERESTING TWIST,
How can you wire this in a way that the horn blares with every cranking attempt if the RF Fob was not used to enable the kill switch?

433 Mhz Wireless Switch -> here.

First I think it is an extremely bad idea to use such a device on the fuel pump. I like the remote idea but it would be much safer to install on the starter relay. Reason being, you are adding a fairly high risk failure point. If it's installed on the fuel pump you could be doing 70mph down the highway and if it fails your truck will stall out which could be very dangerous. If installed on the starter nothing will happen, the vehicle just won't start the next time.

Secondly, the safe method for installing such a device would be to use a relay in between the wire you want to switch on or off, and use the rf switch as the signal side of the relay. This way the relay is taking the load and all the rf switch is doing is telling the relay to open or close.

Third, the horn thing is possible but would require more relays. If I have time tomorrow I can doodle you a little schematic.

I want to become an electrician, where you can learn about this profession.

Wow, excellent choice.There are not so many electricians; there is always a job for them. In addition, electricians get a good salary; you can support your family on a salary. It is not enough to ask for information on the forum; I would recommend watching a YouTube video, visiting this page, and asking around friends and acquaintances. But to learn about all the nuances of work, it is best to find an electrician who has been working for a long time so that he can tell you everything how in practice. The theory is certainly good, but practice and theory very often do not coincide.

Here's a perspective of reality.

An ignition kill, starter interrupt, fuel interrupt, etc, all do one thing and one thing only. They keep an honest man honest. Full Stop.

Regardless whether its a toggle, electronic, elemental (think cig lighter plug), if someone gets into the vehicle, in the first place they're most likely and usually coming for your specific vehicle.

No ones scoping out the local mall lot thinking crap, no Corvettes to steal today and says "OH, a Ford Ranger!" I'm taking that. My point being in this is they know your [type] of vehicle specifically and it fits the needs. In turn, its also a 20+ yr old vehicle. There is NOTHING new on that vehicle from 1982-2012 that would not be recognized as anything but an off OE attempt to possible prevent theft on or under the dash. A module is even easier to find because MOST installers are both lazy and hopeful that no one really will take an interest in that vehicle and efforts usually wain quickly, because its more jobs done gets you paid more. Not always the rule, there's a ton of talent but figuratively I am pointing a "tech-cultuturality" or industry enigma.

IF you were to use the RF switch, I would NOT recommend that at the Inertia switch. That safety switch, of all worries related to something insurance wise or even mechanically would/could open up to a legality and come back and bite you should the situation be crazy enough [these days (?)] for a forensic necessity.

Between the fuel pump and the pump relay would be best on a truck, otherwise at the fuel pump would be best. Ain't no one dropping a tank or ripping a seat lower out.

My favorite used to be taking the seat belt sensor, tapping it, and it started the vehicle. Anyone stealing your car's not likely trying to buckle up to remain lawfully compliant you know what I mean? And 90% of us have it ingrained that people are nuts in this world and wear a safety belt because of THEIR driving, not our own.

I would surmise you have a concern warranting a need for the device and if anything, but all that is a digital IGN/Cut w/output for a light flash. No horn (although could be manipulated with another relay or two in place of the light flash), no door locks, nothing.

Also, keep in mind, and I get it, its when left unattended but if anyone wants your truck more than you do, They're gonna figure out a way to get it from you. Whether its unattended in front of the house, the mall lot, or you warmed up and they car jack you at the corner for it. Worse case, they come flatbed it away and done. It's supposedly why they say we pay for insurance.





As a long time 12v installer I has the very exact premise on the fuel pump issue. Fact is RF fuel cuts are huge in Europe and South America and realistically, nothing different would happen should the same fuel pump fail at any other time, ask any GM owner about fuel pumps and sending units, it's a disease in the platform next to their fuel injectors. Nothing anymore or less dangerous would happen, the vehicle would simply shut down, hopefully without incident just as in any other incident as such.

Secondly, the RF switch IS the device, otherwise by your definition you just backed up the RF device with another interruption kinda defeating the purpose of said RF device. Not sure if that just didn't take to text well or if you meant something else.


Electrician is a little different from 12v or low voltage specialist but regardless either spectrum has its rewards.

You can check into programs like:

M.E.C.P. 12 volt certification programs.

https://mecp.com/

Programs are newer than back in my day where there was only a Installer and Instructor classes with an advanced class that came later. But much like any certification, its training, its learned processes, albeit some improvements from back in the day too and it used to get you an extra couple dollars in your pay scale as well as a sense of pride in the industry. It's a good program and can be found just about in any bigger city environment.

Some companies pay for the training or reimbursement costs covered if hired, which is always nice.

Some additional training and or influential links would be:

• https://theshopmag.com/news/12-volt-...ool-announced/
  
• https://www.the12volt.com/
  
• https://www.youtube.com/user/meade916
  
• https://www.youtube.com/user/CarAudioFabrication

There's plenty of others, these are just based upon a few people who check off all the boxes when presenting work or useful information.

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Just realized that post was a little old.. My bad, it was the only topic lit up out of thousands of conversation possibilities as a NEW topic.


[crickets]...

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