Let me start by saying I’m decently technical with wiring things like home circuts but have never done anything electrical with a car short of replacing a bulb.

Here is my vehicles specs, I’ll outline the issues further below this.

Make and Model is quite obvious considering the forum, Ford Ranger.

Year: 1995
Trim: XL
Cab: Super
Acc: Power Windows Power Locks, Keyless Entry system

(i think that’s all that important regarding these issues if more info is needed please ask)

Door Locks:

No matter how I lock or unlock the doors (As long as its not with the key), the driver side door will not lock or unlock. This includes both lock/unlock buttons inside the vehicle, and the lock unlock buttons on the keyless entry remote. I would like help on how I can narrow the issue down and then where to go from there (I will be doing the repairs myself)

Window Issue:

The driver side passenger window control will not under any circumstance move the window up or down, however the passenger side can control the window fine. The driver window works fine (however it seems slow or maybe like it struggles a bit to roll it up??) i also plan on doing this repair myself and just need guidance on how to go about diagnosing and solving the issue.

I can’t drive it yet as kts my first vehicle and I’m still working on getting insurance so I have time (i have a highly limited budget, I freelance for work so, but i have a mode of transportation to get parts etc)

Thank you!


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Door lock motor is bad...

And the Drivers side Pass switch is likely bad or possibly a bad relay but I'm bettin on the switch. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ow+switch,4624

and the motor being slow to start is generally a bad/old motor possibly a dry or damaged regulator (window armature for lifting and lowering the glass) https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...dow+motor,1516

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My Build Pg. Threads
+ 93' Ranger Overlanding Build
+ 94' Ranger Bed Overlanding Trailer Build
+ 12° North Industries ~ I Support

Is there a way to diagnose these issues before buying the parts (With my little budget I really don't want to spend any money that isn't directly going to repair an issue, Thank you so much for your answers and you help!

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• In the sense of the door lock motor - I'd bet a left testicle on it based upon your description of the issue and quite some time in the 12v realm for some 25 years or so.
  
• The switch could be proven out with a DVOM (digital volt meter), even a basic test light would be better than nothing
  
• and in the sense of the window motor operating slower, had it been just up i'd lean ever so more towards a worn motor that gets used more than you think. But since you said it was up and down. That makes me want to pull the door panel to check the armature or "regulator" aspect in which since the passenger side switch does work still. You could plug the switch back in and use it to move the window up and down while helping it. Two things you will notice. 1) the cat whiskers [seals around the sides and top of the glass are extremely dry/rotted that a moderate application of some silicone spray sprayed with the accompanied straw (think WD40 straw) in those channels MAY help. But 2) if the motor seems to operate at what would be considered a normal speed or rate by the action of you helping it go up and down. I'd say the motor is tired, and by tired I mean its a "coffin-dodger"... and *IF* the regulator is in proper order and orientation; meaning its not bent, partially lose or disconnected.

- Everything else I'll lump into job description and experience in the field

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My Build Pg. Threads
+ 93' Ranger Overlanding Build
+ 94' Ranger Bed Overlanding Trailer Build
+ 12° North Industries ~ I Support

I appreciate the help! So what I’m looking for from what I got from your information is

A new master power window switch

A new door lock actuator

And

(I don’t think I picked up needing a new part for the window motor)

Would you mind if I messaged you with more smaller questions I might have?


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Mos Def a Door lock motor. My best recommendation is to maybe skip the immense cost of an OEM unit and with a lil creative handling use a "DEI" [brand] 524N or 524T motor instead. Half the cost and fully comparable in quality and durability. Be wary of fakes using similar #PN's (maybe consider buying 2 for the cost of one OEM motor and eventually replacing the passenger side while you're in there.)

I would take the time to prove the switch being in error, just for cost effectiveness sake, replace as assumed or needed. Rockauto is a great source - info in above posts

And before all of that, I would def take the pass door panel off and assess what is going on in there. Take pics if unsure and report back to your thread here.

PM me if I can help further.

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_______________________

My Build Pg. Threads
+ 93' Ranger Overlanding Build
+ 94' Ranger Bed Overlanding Trailer Build
+ 12° North Industries ~ I Support

The lock actuator needs to be replaced or at least the linkage checked at the actuator


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2004 ranger 4.0L edge