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  #1  
Old 08-19-2018, 08:29 AM
Flaboy1983 Flaboy1983 is offline
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Default Electrical problems with starter

For the last 2 days when I go to start my truck the solenoid clicks and doesn't start on the first try I turn the key back try to start again and it cranks right up then yesterday I go to start the truck it just clicks and does this over and over so I push start it take it to the parts store buy a starter have them check my battery battery checks out good get home take my old starter off take it to the store to have them test it it test out good then I return the starter so I get a solenoid go home and put it on and it does the same thing I put a voltmeter on it I've got just under 13 volts all the way around now I can push start the truck and while the truck is running I can turn the key and the starter will engage while it is running just does not seem to get power from a cold start any information or quick how to do would be a blessing thank you very much
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  #2  
Old 08-19-2018, 09:24 AM
KenHigg KenHigg is offline
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Default Re: Electrical problems with starter

You should do a drop voltage test. Also check that your engine ground will carry starter current with a drop voltage test...

Last edited by KenHigg; 08-19-2018 at 09:26 AM.
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  #3  
Old 08-19-2018, 12:12 PM
Flaboy1983 Flaboy1983 is offline
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Default Re: Electrical problems with starter

Thank you for the response I did try a voltage test and everything was checking out fine but just a few minutes ago I made a last-ditch effort and grab the wires and just started moving them around and jumped in to start it and it fired right up so what it boils down to is there some sort of corrosion or something within the wires that was stopping the flow of electricity because all my connections were good clean and the voltage was there it was just not able to pass through the wire at some point for some reason
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Old 08-19-2018, 01:25 PM
KenHigg KenHigg is offline
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Default Re: Electrical problems with starter

Glad you have it fixed for now. A drop voltage test will show you where the bad connections are because you have to test with a load. Actually there probably are only a couple high current connections that could be bad. Just clean them all and put a little dielectric grease on them
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Old 08-19-2018, 08:31 PM
Undrstm8ed Undrstm8ed is offline
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Default Re: Electrical problems with starter

Quote:
Originally Posted by Flaboy1983 View Post
Thank you for the response I did try a voltage test and everything was checking out fine but just a few minutes ago I made a last-ditch effort and grab the wires and just started moving them around and jumped in to start it and it fired right up so what it boils down to is there some sort of corrosion or something within the wires that was stopping the flow of electricity because all my connections were good clean and the voltage was there it was just not able to pass through the wire at some point for some reason
Generally, its the wire that goes from the battery to the Starter solenoid on the fender in our trucks and older that go bad..




A few well spent dollars at an audio shop for a 1ft piece of 8ga wire generally cleans it up with some proper ring terminals; I recommend soldering the ring terminals on with a small torch and solid silver solder. This was the one I built and replaced that line with from the solenoid to the under hood fuse distribution box.



After redoing all of the grounds and power wires, 4ga to starter, 8ga to starter solenoid itself, and a 2nd 4ga to the dual battery solenoid, 1/0ga from the Alt to the battery is still left to be done. I have it but not my 300amp Alt, so I been holding off from taking the harness apart..





The "Big Three" upgrade is probably one of the best upgrades or mods you can do IMO to minimize or mitigate electrical issues and or demands.
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  #6  
Old 08-20-2018, 04:58 PM
Flaboy1983 Flaboy1983 is offline
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Default Re: Electrical problems with starter

Thanks for that extra information and the pics cause just after I posted my thanks to the other guy I rewired all the positive wires and it did the same thing no start just a click again, and it was after I pulled that fuse box and moved it that I got about 4 or 5 starts out of the truck enough to get me to the parts store before it started doing the same thing again, so I'm gonna rewire that one that goes to the actual fuse box and cross my fingers and say a prayer
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  #7  
Old 08-20-2018, 05:06 PM
KenHigg KenHigg is offline
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Default Re: Electrical problems with starter

Don't forget to look at the grounds as well. Sometimes you can quick check the engine gound by putting a battery cable on the negative battery terminal and the other end on a good engine clean engine grounding spot.

btw - those are some good looking home made cables in the pics above !! is the red thing a power bus?

Last edited by KenHigg; 08-20-2018 at 05:10 PM.
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Old 08-21-2018, 01:41 AM
Undrstm8ed Undrstm8ed is offline
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Default Re: Electrical problems with starter

Quote:
Originally Posted by KenHigg View Post
Don't forget to look at the grounds as well. Sometimes you can quick check the engine gound by putting a battery cable on the negative battery terminal and the other end on a good engine clean engine grounding spot.

btw - those are some good looking home made cables in the pics above !! is the red thing a power bus?
He's definitely got a power issue, older Fords are notorious for that battery line to go bad. Grounds should be checked too but thats not his issue I believe.

Thanks, I opted to put "Full" kits together but they get to expensive and well, few would spend the money unless you're a wiring nut or OCD like myself.

The "red thing(s)" is and are fuse holders for ANL fuses.
  • Two 4ga wires come from the dual battery isolator to isolate and protect the spare batteries in a rack in the spare tire carrier with 300a fuses.. they're used for all the add-on AUX features. LED light bars, fridge, a future DC to AC convertor, Charging systems for USB powered flashlights/camera's/phones/laptops.., ect.
  • Another fuse powers up an 8ga wire to a 6way Blue Sea fuse/distribution block for all the communications in the truck; H.A.M., Citizens Band (CB), and a GMRS 2-way radio kept for trail buddies, the future application of a Garmen inREACH docking station, and two extra future fuse needs.
  • Another 4ga wire runs inside the cab with the above 8ga wire for use of when I get off my lazy butt and start reworking the Audio system back into the mix. It has undergone many new changes and the front stage is still yet to be completed in purchasing as its $1599 for a 3-way Dynaudio setup that includes 7" midbass drivers, 4" mids, and 1" soft dome tweeters. BUT.., a new extra income stream I'm pulling in may make that happen next month and then I have no more excuses.
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  #9  
Old 08-21-2018, 02:56 AM
KenHigg KenHigg is offline
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Default Re: Electrical problems with starter

Seems you have a knack for mods where electrical work is involved. What are you running that draws 70 amps on a 4g wire?!? Do sound systems draw that?
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Old 08-22-2018, 02:06 PM
Undrstm8ed Undrstm8ed is offline
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Default Re: Electrical problems with starter

Quote:
Originally Posted by KenHigg View Post
Seems you have a knack for mods where electrical work is involved. What are you running that draws 70 amps on a 4g wire?!? Do sound systems draw that?
My amp ( http://www.arcaudio.com/store?p=90847 ) alone is 90a

A simple rule in audio was to count the fuses x what they are, that's your maximum draw for that device. i.g. Three (3) x 20a fuses is a 60a draw. Input should equal output. Therefore if you add in two amplifiers at 40a x 2, 20a x 3, a processor/EQ/DSP with a 10a x 1 you added current draw is at 150a max draw. But that is best for calculating current draw and fuse selection for protecting the circuit(s) itself.

Sure the battery and type greatly help but in the situation where your Honda Civic alternator is 85a your amplifier draw at full out draws 70a before losing efficiency.. I promise you will leapfrog replacements of batteries and alternators every other year or two at best.

When you are running more stuff in a car the voltage changes with load and heat etc., even with wire gauge being improper will add resistance to the circuit as well mechanical interference's [connections, splices.. ect..] Most people figure their system under Ideal circumstances [Imagine your car sitting in an air conditioned arena just running the amplifier].

Now don't forget to figure in the clipping [audio related] . . . this will cause and increase heat in your gear and it will become less efficient, but since some people can't hear distortion at subwoofer frequencies {80Hz and down to about 30Hz}



And just as you would do for calculating AUX system draw.
The two reserve batteries run all of the AUX lighting (LED bars and Cubes with exception to the under hood LED light strip) in my setup. So for me I had to calculate:

Exterior AUX needs
  • 1.5a x 5 LED cubes
  • 4.5a x 3 6" LED bars
  • 12a x 1 20" LED bar
  • 24a x 1 40" LED bar

Interior Flip-Pac AUX needs
  • 1.8a Flip-Pac interior lamps [includes 4 small LED bulbs]
  • 3.2a x 1 for Electric blanket use
  • 4.7a x 1 Dometic refrigerator
  • 2.8 x 2 Camera Battery chargers
  • 2.5 x 2 Laptop chargers
  • 1.2 x 2 USB Flashlight chargers
  • 2.1 x 2 USB AUX ports for charging devices

Which gives me a total of about 85a [83.9a to be to spec]

Now I dont need to run all of that and if I only used 2/3 of the interior AUX needs I have about just under 32 hrs of autonomy in my setup that I dont need to a.] Start the truck b.] Plug in to 120v shore power c.]Throw the solar panels in the sun. There's a ton of minimalist features in my setup to get what I need in power for long(er) term off grid like lil adventures.

My setup charges the main battery first when it reaches a specific voltage indicating a full charge, then it charges the secondary batteries. Should I somehow kill the MAIN/Start battery. I can flip a switch and pull current from all three batteries to start the truck up and the truck will charge the main battery again before topping off the AUX batteries.

There is a bit to consider whatever your goals may be for.
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Last edited by Undrstm8ed; 08-22-2018 at 02:11 PM.
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  #11  
Old 08-22-2018, 05:07 PM
KenHigg KenHigg is offline
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Default Re: Electrical problems with starter

Wow - I must admit I have never had a desire to hear that much music, much less pay for it You may want to have kill switch and fire ext. ready
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Old 08-24-2018, 02:10 PM
Flaboy1983 Flaboy1983 is offline
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Default Re: Electrical problems with starter

Ok so I'm still getting the click, I replaced all the positive wires leaving the terminal to the solenoid and to starter, pulled my ground cleaned and reconnected them and same click, I'm lost as to what it could be, when the truck is on and running I can turn the key and the starter turns over into my flywheel, so while it's running it is getting all the power it needs, just not from an off position to starting
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  #13  
Old 08-24-2018, 06:11 PM
KenHigg KenHigg is offline
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Default Re: Electrical problems with starter

sounds like the throw out bearing isn't able to get the starter gears into the flywheel. Is the starter new and can you see in to see if the flywheel gears aren't damaged?
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Old 08-27-2018, 02:17 PM
Flaboy1983 Flaboy1983 is offline
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Default Re: Electrical problems with starter

It isnt a new starter and I could but then I have to pull everything I'm wondering if it could be my ignition switch under the dash on the steering column
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  #15  
Old 08-27-2018, 03:43 PM
KenHigg KenHigg is offline
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Default Re: Electrical problems with starter

I'd rather pull a starter than an ignition switch just saying....

I suppose a vibrating running engine could cause a bad switch to work just as easily as it could cause a bad starter throw-out bearing to start working...
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