fuse #33 under hood keeps blowing changed switch to no avail.

amber1 · #1 10-25-2017, 06:50 AM

01 edge fuse #33 under the hood keeps blowing, changed the switch, unplugged fog lights and the fuse still blows. When it blown it turns off my drl's and dash and radio lights. But my headlights, taillights, blinkers, and dome light all still work. Any help is appreciated!

Undrstm8ed · #2 10-25-2017, 07:26 PM

When you say you unplug the fog lights are these stock or Newer replacement ones?

Whats been done to the truck as far as repairs in the last month or so? Does the fuse blow immediately or over a short or longer period of time, ONLY when fog lights are on or no matter what?

amber1 · #3 10-25-2017, 08:00 PM

They are replacement ones but that was over a year ago, and the fuse will blow immediately when I turn on the head lights that's why I thought it was the switch. And I haven't done any repairs in the last 6 months or so and the repair I did was changing breaks.

amber1 · #4 10-25-2017, 08:38 PM

Wait I forgot I had to replace the coolant temp sensor housing about 3 months ago that's the only repair that was done recently.

Undrstm8ed · #5 10-26-2017, 12:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by amber1

They are replacement ones but that was over a year ago, and the fuse will blow immediately when I turn on the head lights that's why I thought it was the switch. And I haven't done any repairs in the last 6 months or so and the repair I did was changing breaks.

So next question, Is that regardless of the fog light ON/OFF position?

amber1 · #6 10-26-2017, 07:40 PM

Yeah it doesn't matter whether the fog lights are on or off the 15 amp fuse will still blow when I turn in the headlight switch. But I tried something new today and put in a 25 amp fuse and it didn't blow. Any ideas?

Undrstm8ed · #7 10-27-2017, 12:05 AM

Dont do that.. if the circuit calls for a 15 amp, it should be a 15 amp. The issue now is because the fuse isnt the weak link now so much, now you're gonna heat up the wiring until it finds a point to melt some insulation and start melting other things too. Starting a campfire with your vehicle is NOT the right way to start a campfire..

My next question is, when did this all start happening? Whats likely happening is you have a wire shorting to ground that's got power to it. Obviously it doesnt work like that and blows a fuse. That's why I asked what works been done as of late? Figured if anyone was running wires, tugging on harnesses trying to get at wires or stretch things around other moved items and its worn some insulation away somewhere...

dvrich · #8 10-28-2017, 04:55 PM

Are the DRLs and fog lights on the same fuse? Rangers never came from the factory with DRLs.

amber1 · #9 10-28-2017, 05:57 PM

The drl's and fog lights I believe are on the same fuse because only 1 fuse will blow and they both go out. And the work that I've wrote about up above is the only work that's been done, it started happening about 2 weeks ago. I left my house like any other night, git on the interstate and in the 7 miles it takes me to get to the exit my lights went out. It wasn't raining or anything.

Undrstm8ed · #10 10-28-2017, 07:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dvrich

Are the DRLs and fog lights on the same fuse? Rangers never came from the factory with DRLs.

Not US market but the wiring has been there since 95' for the 98 Ranger's & Explorers as mandated, especially for those hosers in our backyard ehh..

If you follow below the shotgun rails on the inside of the header you'll find a take out with a very odd shunt in them if not required by legislation for the country they were shipped too.

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Quote:

Originally Posted by amber1

The drl's and fog lights I believe are on the same fuse because only 1 fuse will blow and they both go out. And the work that I've wrote about up above is the only work that's been done, it started happening about 2 weeks ago. I left my house like any other night, git on the interstate and in the 7 miles it takes me to get to the exit my lights went out. It wasn't raining or anything.

So to go any further you're going to need a few tools and a little knowledge of your vehicles wiring. is this something you're willing to do or have the wherewithal to proceed? Or is someone else helping you with this task that has some tools you can use like DVOM (Digital Volt Meter), maybe and a computer safe test probe? Oh you may need a 6 pack and some patience too.

amber1 · #11 10-28-2017, 09:42 PM

I'm trying to do it And am willing to learn but I also have my dad helping me he's been working on cars for over 15 years. And I can get the meter and six pack as well lol! It's just slow going.

Undrstm8ed · #12 10-28-2017, 10:38 PM

I'm going to see if I can find you a schematic, it'll help.. may take me a day or two. Auto or manual trans?

amber1 · #13 10-31-2017, 07:58 AM

Its an automatic but I figured out what was causing the fuse to blow my tag light had melted and the positive and negative ends were touching once I separated them the fuse quit blowing the 15 amp. Now I just have to figure out why the relay where the diagnostic machine hooks up isn't getting any power. Thank you for your help!��

Undrstm8ed · #14 10-31-2017, 11:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by amber1

Its an automatic but I figured out what was causing the fuse to blow my tag light had melted and the positive and negative ends were touching once I separated them the fuse quit blowing the 15 amp. Now I just have to figure out why the relay where the diagnostic machine hooks up isn't getting any power. Thank you for your help!��

Well that's great to hear!

And the relay should ONLY see power when the key is turned forward but NOT started.

Cobraman · #15 10-31-2017, 05:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by amber1

Its an automatic but I figured out what was causing the fuse to blow my tag light had melted and the positive and negative ends were touching once I separated them the fuse quit blowing the 15 amp. Now I just have to figure out why the relay where the diagnostic machine hooks up isn't getting any power. Thank you for your help!��

My cigarette liter socket failed and removed power from the OBD port when the fuse blew. Unplug the wire from the back of the light and replace the fuse. Check the lighter fuse and see if it’s blown.