How to wire up roll bar lights?

mike correll · #1 08-26-2017, 06:33 AM

I have 2 Maxtel 4x4 lights mounted to the roll bar I put in my '94 Ranger. I need to go about wiring them, and I'd like to wire them to a toggle switch. Does anyone know of a harness I can buy to wire them up? If there's any webpages or videos out there on how to actually wire them that would help too... I don't know too much about wiring. The lights each have a black wire and a white wire. I'm assuming the black one is a ground wire and the white is the hot wire. Also, one more thing. What would be the best way to run the wires from the lights to the cab?

Jason35 · #2 08-26-2017, 03:46 PM

I would suggest using a relay under the hood. Run heavy gauge wire from the relay to the battery, and heavy gauge wire from the relay to the lights. This will be a switched power by the relay. Depending on when you want the light to come on (eg high beam) I would get a power source from there and run light gauge wire to the switch inside, i you just want the toggle and not linked to high beams or fog light or anything then I would just find a power source run it to a toggle and the to the relay. You will have one circuit for the power that will consist of heavy gauge wires from the battery to the relay power in and heavy gauge from the relay power out to the lights, with a ground from the lights to a good ground in heavy gauge. The switch will either feed from source of your choice (high beam, fog light) or from any 12v power (cigarette outlet works fine) to the switch inside and to the switch in part of the relay, then ground the switch out to a good ground and you are good to go. A relay is the best because it will reduce the length of the wire which reduces voltage loss, as well as keeping the heavy gauge wiring outside the cab if something where to go wrong.

Ordinary Biker · #3 08-26-2017, 04:15 PM

Undrstm8ed · #4 08-26-2017, 08:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jason35

I would suggest using a relay under the hood. Run heavy gauge wire from the relay to the battery, and heavy gauge wire from the relay to the lights. This will be a switched power by the relay. Depending on when you want the light to come on (eg high beam) I would get a power source from there and run light gauge wire to the switch inside, i you just want the toggle and not linked to high beams or fog light or anything then I would just find a power source run it to a toggle and the to the relay. You will have one circuit for the power that will consist of heavy gauge wires from the battery to the relay power in and heavy gauge from the relay power out to the lights, with a ground from the lights to a good ground in heavy gauge. The switch will either feed from source of your choice (high beam, fog light) or from any 12v power (cigarette outlet works fine) to the switch inside and to the switch in part of the relay, then ground the switch out to a good ground and you are good to go. A relay is the best because it will reduce the length of the wire which reduces voltage loss, as well as keeping the heavy gauge wiring outside the cab if something where to go wrong.

We should elaborate a bit deeper for the OP

The green wire used in the switches power can be added to ANY other source for power not just the battery. For example. IF you wanted the lights to ONLY come on when you had the ignition on you would attach the fused end to a circuit powered by the key on/off. At the same time if you wanted them to ONLY be used when the High beams were on, you would of course tap the fused end into the High Beam ON circuit output.

And if you wanted them to be used at ANY time, now is where we use a constant 12 volt source. That being said.., Another idea would be too, that instead of running multiple wires back and forth through these grommets. Run a single 8 gauge wire from the battery fused of course near the battery and run it to an AUX fuse box like a Blue Sea under the front seat. Run a 8ga ground wire to the nearest Factory ground in the Passenger or drivers kick panel depending on which seat side you picked. [one of two 12 circuit versions shown]

NOW, you can run anywhere between 6-12 additional 30 amp circuits properly and safely without having a mess of wires running all over the place. Minimal chance of noise for any additional COMMs units, LED lighting for the INT/EXT, what have you. This is in a 2nd gen 91' 4Runner, under the passenger side seat AUX fuse panel I did a long time ago... Its accessible simply by sliding the seat forward. Still used today, Only difference is 1.00" nylon spacers lifting the fuse panel off the floor.

Otherwise running multiple wires through a 4ga sized tube can be done too but now all we've done is move a mess either from the interior into the engine bay or both. [This is two 18ga wires and two 16ga wires passed through a 4ga sized tube through one of the water proof connectors I use in my trail partners 2nd gen 4Runner for his driving lights and fog lights from the bumper].

There are a host of "GOOD" places to pass through the firewall safely. It may be a longer read but feel free to surf my build thread for some of the things I did for ideas too.

buggman · #5 08-26-2017, 10:27 PM

Definitely run a relay & proper gauge wire, fused at the battery.
I do oem fog switch conversion kits and I can also make up a basic wiring harness for just about any type of toggle, rocker, etc. switch.

dvrich · #6 08-27-2017, 02:05 PM

40 amp relay would cover it nicely. A nice FRN 40 amp fuse holder too.