Thanks for your comment. Where exactly should I place the meter leads? I had 1 lead on the thick red wire connecting to the starter, 2nd lead was on the frame nearby. I had 12vdc like that, then when my wife cranked it, it went to 0. I think. I have alligator clips, maybe I can check again, but I'll be by myself.

Actually, wife is sleeping.... I'm going to try it now

Edit: double-checked. Yes, with one lead on the positive terminal and the other lead on the frame, I have 12.5vdc. When I turn the headlights on, it drops to 12.3vdc. With the headlights off, and I try to crank, it drops to zero, or more accurately .442, basically zero.

Also, I found the ground strap from the frame to the block, along the firewall. It looks to be good shape, clean and no corrosion.

__________________
2005 Ford Ranger Edge
3.0L V6 5-speed RWD

OK, using voice to text with my phone and very greasy hands. I remove the starter this morning, and checked resistance on the solenoid. I don't think it's within spec. I had found a website last night about troubleshooting electrical systems when you have the voltage problem that I have. Among checking out the ground and cleaning the terminals, it said to measure resistance on the solenoid. This solenoid is definitely not where the website says it should be.

Website: from starter terminal to motor terminal: .4 to .6 ohms
My starter solenoid: 25.27M ohms

Here is the site, granted, I believe it's for explorers. But the starter solenoid they showed looks exactly like this one.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...ncerns.146784/

Edit: from the negative battery terminal to the smaller wire on the starter, I have 0 V when the key is off. I currently have the starter removed from the motor. When I turn the key, I have 11 V and the starter Spins. From the negative battery terminal to the thick red wire on the starter, I have 12.77v with the key off.

__________________
2005 Ford Ranger Edge
3.0L V6 5-speed RWD

I had that problem before and it was as simple as bad battery terminals. I replaced them and didn't have a problem anymore. my friend had the same problem and he replaced them and they're fine now. that's something cheap that you can try as well


Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Ok I'm very sorry for all the posts! I was sort of hoping to be able to document the steps I took to troubleshoot the issue, and I was finally able to get the truck to start.

A few things about my truck:
1. 2005 3.0 V6
2. The starter has the solenoid built in, there is no external solenoid that I know of.
3. I can't find an external relay bolted to the fender, all I could find was the fuse in the fuse box.
(I list these things because the manual and online sources say to check these things, and they may not be on your particular vehicle.)

The manual lists some steps to follow, which includes cleaning battery cables and terminals, checking all the grounds (Thanks Cobraman), and making sure all connections are tight. I stripped the battery cables back to get cleaner wire, and put them back together tight. I put the starter back in and made absolutely sure the wires were connected tight, and the truck started right up. Not sure how I really changed anything, but I'm not complaining!

----------

You replaced the posts on the batteries, or the clamps that connect to the posts? I've heard of people replacing the terminals and I get confused.

__________________
2005 Ford Ranger Edge
3.0L V6 5-speed RWD

the clamps that are connected to the wire. I just call them terminals lol

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Gotcha! Yes, I think I might do that next. I also want to install a new positive wire going from the battery to the starter. Thanks for your assistance!

__________________
2005 Ford Ranger Edge
3.0L V6 5-speed RWD

Sounds like you got it. On main power leads and connections it's important they are clean and tight. Corrosion will cause voltage losses when under heavy load like starting the engine while everything else appears to work fine. You were able to push start it because when the engine is running the alternator is supplying the electrical system. Nice job working through your issue and not giving in to taking it somewhere.

Well I'm glad it's sorted! And that it turned out to be a simple power delivery problem.

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

__________________
2008 Sport 4x4, Pro Comp D windows, 265/75R16's, leather, JVC double DIN, Kenwood 5-1/4 components, Clarion XR2420, 4 - 8" Dayton Audio SD215A-88 in 3.6ft^3 @ 38hz