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  #16  
Old 03-08-2017, 09:44 AM
JAMMANICA JAMMANICA is offline
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Default Re: No crank no start. For PATS sake.

TY for the link
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  #17  
Old 03-08-2017, 07:57 PM
RudyRanger RudyRanger is offline
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Default Re: No crank no start. For PATS sake.

Man, I really appreciate all the advice.

My skill level is on the lower side of things as is my budget so I'm going to have to get learning.

I'm going to look into all the things you guys have sugested. I have tried both keys.

----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by cowboybilly9mile View Post
That depends on your skill level and ability. With that said, if you believe your keys need reprogramming then you can program PATS using FORScan installed on a lappy and an ELM adapter, thus avoiding having to visit a dealer. FORScan also pulls extended codes, something to keep in your back pocket.

Did you try the other key yet?
This looks very interesting from what I have seen so far. This ELM adapter? Is it a special kind of OBD scanner? Because I've got an OBD scanner.

I'm going to do some more research on the info you gave tomorrow.

Thanks

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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAMMANICA View Post
Hop on the http://eectuning.org/forums/ and ask about disabling pats, make sure you tell them you just want to send it out or you will get miles of replies on software and cables and laptops... if you are going to do it just once sending it out is much better.

Hope the link to the specialty board is OK mods, that board is no threat to this one in any way.
I'm going to check this out. If I can't fix it without taking it to Ford then I would love to disable PATS.
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  #18  
Old 05-06-2017, 02:45 PM
RudyRanger RudyRanger is offline
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Default Re: No crank no start. For PATS sake.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cowboybilly9mile View Post
That depends on your skill level and ability. With that said, if you believe your keys need reprogramming then you can program PATS using FORScan installed on a lappy and an ELM adapter, thus avoiding having to visit a dealer. FORScan also pulls extended codes, something to keep in your back pocket.

Did you try the other key yet?
I know this is an old post, but I thought I would bring it back to life as I am still trying to resolve the issue. To be honest, I gave up on it for a while.

But here I am with some updates.

FORScan is a really awesome piece of software. It has been a valuable tool.

So, I did get a transceiver code after scanning. Code B1681. DTC_Ford.jpg

Ignore the other codes, they were gone after I cleared them and rescanned.

At this point I felt like I just need to replace the transceiver. but I decided to erase the 2 current keys stored in PATS memory, and try and reprogram them. I erased them, but I wasn't able to reprogram them.

Before I order a new transceiver I want to test the transceiver wires. This is where I need some help.

I have 4 wires coming from the transceiver. Key in the on position, I tested 3 of them at over 11 volts and one tested at 0 volts. The one that tested at 0 volts was in position one and was red.

Please help me
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  #19  
Old 05-06-2017, 06:42 PM
cowboybilly9mile cowboybilly9mile is offline
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Default Re: No crank no start. For PATS sake.

If I were trying to resolve that issue, and unless something obvious was right in front of my face (for example, damaged wiring) I would look in my FSM and follow the diagnostic process for that particular code. Alldata should also make the FSM procedure available for a fee that will allow access for a period of time, such as, one year. FWIW it may or it may not be a transciever; without using the diagnostics in the FSM I would not know how to systematically pinpoint what is wrong. I never buy parts unless I know for a fact that what I'm buying will fix a problem, or that a careful and systematic diagnostic process has ruled out virtually all other possibilities, and it's finally down to just a item or maybe two and there is no choice left but to try the new part.
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Last edited by cowboybilly9mile; 05-06-2017 at 06:48 PM.
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  #20  
Old 05-08-2017, 09:17 PM
sheltonfilms sheltonfilms is offline
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Default Re: No crank no start. For PATS sake.

Measure voltage (connector disconnected) at pin 2 (Red/Light Green)...should be more than 10 volts.
Measure continuity (connector disconnected) between pin 1 (Black/White) and ground....should be less than 5 ohms.
Backprobe (have transceiver connected to plug) pin 3 and measure voltage from pin 3 (Gray/Orange)....should be more than 9 volts.
Measure continuity (connector disconnected) between pin 3 (GY/OG) and ground....should be greater than 10,000 ohms
Measure the resistance between transceiver pin 3 (GY/OG) and PCM pin 17 (disconnected)(GY/OG)......should be less than 5 ohms
Backprobe (have transceiver connected to plug) and measure voltage from pin 4 (White/Light Green).......greater than 9 volts.
Measure the resistance between ground and PCM (disconnected) pin 18 (WH/LG)......should be greater than 10,000 ohms
Measure voltage between transceiver pin 4 (WH/LG) and ground.....greater than 10,000 ohms
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  #21  
Old 05-12-2017, 06:27 AM
RudyRanger RudyRanger is offline
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Default Re: No crank no start. For PATS sake.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cowboybilly9mile View Post
If I were trying to resolve that issue, and unless something obvious was right in front of my face (for example, damaged wiring) I would look in my FSM and follow the diagnostic process for that particular code. Alldata should also make the FSM procedure available for a fee that will allow access for a period of time, such as, one year. FWIW it may or it may not be a transciever; without using the diagnostics in the FSM I would not know how to systematically pinpoint what is wrong. I never buy parts unless I know for a fact that what I'm buying will fix a problem, or that a careful and systematic diagnostic process has ruled out virtually all other possibilities, and it's finally down to just a item or maybe two and there is no choice left but to try the new part.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sheltonfilms View Post
Measure voltage (connector disconnected) at pin 2 (Red/Light Green)...should be more than 10 volts.
Measure continuity (connector disconnected) between pin 1 (Black/White) and ground....should be less than 5 ohms.
Backprobe (have transceiver connected to plug) pin 3 and measure voltage from pin 3 (Gray/Orange)....should be more than 9 volts.
Measure continuity (connector disconnected) between pin 3 (GY/OG) and ground....should be greater than 10,000 ohms
Measure the resistance between transceiver pin 3 (GY/OG) and PCM pin 17 (disconnected)(GY/OG)......should be less than 5 ohms
Backprobe (have transceiver connected to plug) and measure voltage from pin 4 (White/Light Green).......greater than 9 volts.
Measure the resistance between ground and PCM (disconnected) pin 18 (WH/LG)......should be greater than 10,000 ohms
Measure voltage between transceiver pin 4 (WH/LG) and ground.....greater than 10,000 ohms
Thanks for the help guys. I have a busy work schedule this week. I'm off Monday and I hopefully should be able to work on it then.

Sheltonfilms, I will try and do what you instructed. You sure know your stuff. So, if I discover incorrect voltage or ohms, what does that mean?
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  #22  
Old 05-12-2017, 06:29 AM
sheltonfilms sheltonfilms is offline
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Default Re: No crank no start. For PATS sake.

Bad wire. If all passes then it's a good chance it's the transceiver


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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  #23  
Old 05-12-2017, 06:32 AM
RudyRanger RudyRanger is offline
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Default Re: No crank no start. For PATS sake.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sheltonfilms View Post
Bad wire. If all passes then it's a good chance it's the transceiver


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ah, that makes sense. Hopefully I can follow your instructions and figure this out.
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  #24  
Old 05-15-2017, 11:04 AM
RudyRanger RudyRanger is offline
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Default Re: No crank no start. For PATS sake.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sheltonfilms View Post
Bad wire. If all passes then it's a good chance it's the transceiver


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'm struggling to disconnect the transceiver. Is there a special way to do it? I feel like i'm about to break it.

Also, here is a video of something odd that's happening(there is no key in the ignition)

https://goo.gl/ebl6ZG

So yeah, not sure what that's all about.
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  #25  
Old 05-16-2017, 12:23 PM
sheltonfilms sheltonfilms is offline
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Default Re: No crank no start. For PATS sake.

you are trying to do it at the bottom of the column right? The white connector. Press tab up on dash harness side of connector.

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  #26  
Old 05-22-2017, 06:33 AM
RudyRanger RudyRanger is offline
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Default Re: No crank no start. For PATS sake.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sheltonfilms View Post
you are trying to do it at the bottom of the column right? The white connector. Press tab up on dash harness side of connector.


I might be able to work on it today. I will let you know how it goes.

What do you think is going on with the break pedal? Like you see in the video, if I touch the break pedal down a little the truck starts beeping (as if I have opened the door with the key in the ignition) Could there be a short?
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  #27  
Old 05-22-2017, 07:05 AM
sheltonfilms sheltonfilms is offline
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Default Re: No crank no start. For PATS sake.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RudyRanger View Post
I might be able to work on it today. I will let you know how it goes.



What do you think is going on with the break pedal? Like you see in the video, if I touch the break pedal down a little the truck starts beeping (as if I have opened the door with the key in the ignition) Could there be a short?


One of two things: brake light is shorting into headlight circuit. Headlights and brake lights both feed into multifunction switch.

Brake light is shorted to key in ignition switch. But I don't think this wiring comes close to each other. Actually I think the brake signal feeds the GEM on a 4x4 Ranger as well as the key in ignition switch.

Do a module read on the GEM (forscan) and see what they ignition key switch is saying when the digger goes off.


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  #28  
Old 05-22-2017, 07:51 AM
RudyRanger RudyRanger is offline
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Default Re: No crank no start. For PATS sake.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sheltonfilms View Post
One of two things: brake light is shorting into headlight circuit. Headlights and brake lights both feed into multifunction switch.

Brake light is shorted to key in ignition switch. But I don't think this wiring comes close to each other. Actually I think the brake signal feeds the GEM on a 4x4 Ranger as well as the key in ignition switch.

Do a module read on the GEM (forscan) and see what they ignition key switch is saying when the digger goes off.


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my battery is completely dead, so I'm going to charge it up. Then I will test with FORScan.
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  #29  
Old 05-30-2017, 01:32 PM
RudyRanger RudyRanger is offline
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Default Re: No crank no start. For PATS sake.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sheltonfilms View Post
One of two things: brake light is shorting into headlight circuit. Headlights and brake lights both feed into multifunction switch.

Brake light is shorted to key in ignition switch. But I don't think this wiring comes close to each other. Actually I think the brake signal feeds the GEM on a 4x4 Ranger as well as the key in ignition switch.

Do a module read on the GEM (forscan) and see what they ignition key switch is saying when the digger goes off.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I recharged my battery and the brake pedal doesn't seem to be causing a beeping anymore...

I have done some initial testing of voltage of the connections.

Pin 2 (Red/Green) passed, measuring 12 volts
Pin 3 (Gray/Orange) Failed, measuring 7 volts
Pin 4 (White/Light Green) Failed, measuring 6.8 Volts

Is Pin 1 ground?

What does this mean? Whats my next step?
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  #30  
Old 06-05-2017, 09:18 PM
sheltonfilms sheltonfilms is offline
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Default No crank no start. For PATS sake.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RudyRanger View Post
I recharged my battery and the brake pedal doesn't seem to be causing a beeping anymore...



I have done some initial testing of voltage of the connections.



Pin 2 (Red/Green) passed, measuring 12 volts

Pin 3 (Gray/Orange) Failed, measuring 7 volts

Pin 4 (White/Light Green) Failed, measuring 6.8 Volts



Is Pin 1 ground?



What does this mean? Whats my next step?


Need to do all the other measurements I stated and see what the results are.


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