My 2010 4.0l Sport 4X4 I believe has it's original battery and I think it's slowly beginning to die.

I would like to replace it with something bigger, CA, CCA and reserve power

Whats the biggest, best battery I can use that will fit the stock location without to much customizing ?

I have done a little research and I really like to replace the stock lead acid type battery with a AGM style battery.

I have also read that some F150 owners have replaced their stock Group 59 with a slightly larger (2" L) Group 65.

Has anyone tried a Group 65 in their Ranger ? Any mods required to the O.E battery tray ?

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2010 4X4 Sport
Mississauga, ON

I remember someone did some cutting and bending to fit a group 65. I have a 34/78 which only requires minimal bending of the tray.

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2000 Ford Ranger XLT Ext. Cab - 4.0L - 4WD - 3" BL - AAL - Maxed T-Bars - 16" Mickey Thompson Classic Locks - 265/75/16 Cooper AT3s - 12" Power Acoustik Sub @ 1200 watts

65 series is too big for the tray on Rangers. I suppose you could potentially modify the tray to accommodate it, but idk if it'd fit even then. The positive is still on the correct side. You're best bet is to call advance auto and ask them what their premium batteries are. Write down the part numbers and buy them on their website with a coupon code. It isn't uncommon to find a $40 off $100 or 30% off coupon on google for them. They should have whatever AGM batteries they offer as well as the Optima brand batteries that will fit. Their house brand AGMs are made by Johnson Controls, so they're made by the same people who make Optimas anyway. If you're wanting the most CCAs, go with a red top. If you're wanting something that can withstand more overall get a yellow top. They don't have as many cranking amps, but they last forever. I kept my optima from my F-150 I just sold because I thought it would fit my ranger and it is way too big for the tray, just so you know from someone who has tried.

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2007/08 FX4 Off-Road Level II / SCT tuned / GNTX Auto Dim Comp Temp Rearview Mirror / Mustang Dome Light / LED Turn, Brake, Reverse, Fog Lights / 4.10 Torsen Rear / Black Leather Interior / Jumpseat Delete / Lift Shackles / Lightly Cranked #1 T-Bars / 32x11.50x15 AT3s

I can't find the damn picture but the guy who fit the 65 had to cut the tray and then cut the header panel back some. It can be done but is definitely overkill unless you have lots of accessories.

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2000 Ford Ranger XLT Ext. Cab - 4.0L - 4WD - 3" BL - AAL - Maxed T-Bars - 16" Mickey Thompson Classic Locks - 265/75/16 Cooper AT3s - 12" Power Acoustik Sub @ 1200 watts

The group 34 type looks like a viable option. Optima has a group 34 red top too.

Any pix of your group 34 installed ?

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2010 4X4 Sport
Mississauga, ON

My 34/78 optima was too big too. That's what I had in my F-150. It fits width wise, but it has too much depth and so it won't fit with the factory hold down.

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2007/08 FX4 Off-Road Level II / SCT tuned / GNTX Auto Dim Comp Temp Rearview Mirror / Mustang Dome Light / LED Turn, Brake, Reverse, Fog Lights / 4.10 Torsen Rear / Black Leather Interior / Jumpseat Delete / Lift Shackles / Lightly Cranked #1 T-Bars / 32x11.50x15 AT3s

what did you use to hold it down ?

Any Pix ?

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2010 4X4 Sport
Mississauga, ON

I didn't. It's sitting in my garage lol. One of these days I may try to make it work.

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2007/08 FX4 Off-Road Level II / SCT tuned / GNTX Auto Dim Comp Temp Rearview Mirror / Mustang Dome Light / LED Turn, Brake, Reverse, Fog Lights / 4.10 Torsen Rear / Black Leather Interior / Jumpseat Delete / Lift Shackles / Lightly Cranked #1 T-Bars / 32x11.50x15 AT3s

My question for you is what do you plan on adding to the vehicle in the near or distant future? Whats most important to you?

My reason is because if its audio, Aux features, if you overland, or just want the reliability there are many things to actually consider. Just to give you a run down on my setup as an example.

For my main battery I use the Exide Group 65 AGM flat-plate in my 93 without any tray modifications needed. Ive fallen asleep in the cab with the key on backwards for hours [4-7 hrs] and shes never failed to start on me new or old and I replace it every 5th year unless something was to warrant otherwise.


I've also upgraded all the cables at least a +1 or 2 in size as well better quality wiring in the big three. The battery itself, grounds, and the 1/0 cable to the Alt [which gets replaced by a 280amp unit in spring].



My isolator/charge unit and secondary main fuses.


This is temporarily in my rear left speaker locale, but will be moved to the bed of the truck once I build the 10" false floor/truck vault in along with the DC/AC invertor, the Solar panel control unit, and the power conditioner.


Since I run 33's there is no spare tire in my tilt carrier. Instead I've opted to build a battery box out of Aluminum that is Airtight/water proof [yes even saltwater] to house to extra deep cycle batteries. if you notice the AGM above in the details ONLY has an 'AH capacity' of 63 which is only 20 hrs of reserve time based upon 5 amps of draw.


"The specification is saying that the battery will provide 5 amps of current at a usable voltage continuously for 20 hours. The “5 amps” was calculated by dividing 100 by 20.

Similarly, a battery with a specification that reads “150 AH @ 15 hours” will provide 10 amps of current at a usable voltage continuously for 15 hours. It should be noted that a usable voltage is considered to about 10.5 volts and above on a battery that is under load (or has devices connected).

IMPORTANT! Having defined the AH specification, it is important to understand what the Battery Specification does not say.

A Common Misunderstanding Associated with Amp Hours, consider the 100 Amp Hour battery. As indicated above, it will provide 5 amps of current for twenty hours while maintaining a voltage above 10.5 volts.

A common mistake is made when it is assumed that the 100 AH battery will also provide 100 amps for 1 Hour. It won’t. In fact, a battery of this type may only provide about 40 minutes of continuous 100 amp service at best. This is due to a well known characteristic associated with lead acid batteries. Specifically the capacity will decrease as the rate of discharge increases. In other words the relationship between battery capacity (how much energy is available) and the rate of discharge is not a linear one. The phenomenon being described here is known as Peukert’s law http://all-about-lead-acid-batteries...ent-explained/.

Other Amp Hour Rates, as indicated above, the Amp Hour specification on 12 volt batteries is normally based a twenty hour rate. In fact, the specification is so standardized that battery labels often do not include this information. That said, it is important to be aware that deviations from this norm are not uncommon. Some battery manufacturers will establish different rates for their amp hour specification. For example five and ten amp hour rates are not uncommon.

In the case of a battery manufacturer who specifies a 100 AH based on five hour rate, the claim is that the battery will provide 20 amps for five hours before dropping below 10. 5 volts.

Determining How Long a Battery Will last Using Amp Hours? While you may be able gauge the relative capacity of one battery compared to another, you may have some difficulties when you try to determine exactly how long your battery will last. There are a couple basic reasons for this.

First, the AH rating is one that is based on a specific period of time and a specific current draw. Because of Peukert’s Law, the relationship is not linear, therefore simple calculations are not always practical.

Second, current draw is rarely constant in most vehicle applications. Some times all the lights are on, sometimes they are not. Sometimes the stereo volume in turned up and sometimes it is turned down. This very dynamic environment makes it difficult to determine exactly how long a battery will last.

As previously mentioned, the AH hours is gauge that is useful for relative comparisons. When comparing one battery to another for example, the Amp Hour specification will tell us that a 120 amp hour battery will have more capacity than a 80 amp hour battery...."

My two batteries in the rear are also Exide, the Nautilus AGM Marine deep cycles rated at 200 AH and and have a dual+ function that comes into play. [I will see how these hold up in the Las Vegas, NV cold/heat and if they don't live to expectations, I have another battery in mind

First for my overlanding needs, my MAX draw is a less than 35amps and not all are used at one time. These features include the use and charging of two laptops, charging camera batteries, Go-pro's, Streamlight flashlights, an ARB 50 fridge, cell phones and cellular extenders, and even a king sized electric blanket for those cooler nights.

The secondary use for these batteries is all of the Aux lighting and communications goes through them. So that includes a Quad band HAM, GPS SAT box, 5 cubed pod lights, a SRS 20" winch light, a SRS 50" [may downsize to a 40"], @2 10" scene lights, a set of 6 rock lights, a topper tailgate and under hood LED strip lights, and I know I am missing something else here.

On top of that the + function is if I was to have a low battery upfront with my dual Battery isolator/Charge controller I can use the two batteries in the back to jump start the main battery.

Now my long winded comment wasn't to brag about what I have or plan on adding. My comment was geared towards a probably overly analytical aspect to offer you a perspective of things to consider.

Personally as an old-school audio and 12 volt guy.. Optima's had their time and place in the 12 volt world, still are a good battery. However, for the same money, a little more or a little less there are better options to explore based upon what your interest and needs are.

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My Build Pg. Threads
+ 93' Ranger Overlanding Build
+ 94' Ranger Bed Overlanding Trailer Build
+ 12° North Industries ~ I Support

To fit the 34/78 in the tray of my 2000 (same tray as you should have) I bent the tabs on 3 sides back enough to where the I could fit the battery and the wedge in. I'll get pictures tomorrow for you. It's too fucking cold right now.

Gotta say that Undrstm8ted always has awesome posts. Lol, I follow your build because your work is so clever and neat.

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2000 Ford Ranger XLT Ext. Cab - 4.0L - 4WD - 3" BL - AAL - Maxed T-Bars - 16" Mickey Thompson Classic Locks - 265/75/16 Cooper AT3s - 12" Power Acoustik Sub @ 1200 watts

Thanks, I really don't want to dish out a lot of cash for a Optima before I know it will fit

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2010 4X4 Sport
Mississauga, ON

Tried it today and it fits. I have a the 34/78 Optima Yellow top. Lightly bend the 2 side tabs, use the 65 series adapters the Optima comes with and shove that dang thing in there. It ain't going anywhere. HUGE difference from the little 58 series cheapy that the previous owner stuck in there.

Attached Images

fullsizeoutput_d02.jpg (11.7 KB, 38 views)

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2007/08 FX4 Off-Road Level II / SCT tuned / GNTX Auto Dim Comp Temp Rearview Mirror / Mustang Dome Light / LED Turn, Brake, Reverse, Fog Lights / 4.10 Torsen Rear / Black Leather Interior / Jumpseat Delete / Lift Shackles / Lightly Cranked #1 T-Bars / 32x11.50x15 AT3s

Actually looks like there is lots of room. The O.E recommend battery for my 2010 is a Group 59

What year is your truck ?

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2010 4X4 Sport
Mississauga, ON

Gracias senior

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My Build Pg. Threads
+ 93' Ranger Overlanding Build
+ 94' Ranger Bed Overlanding Trailer Build
+ 12° North Industries ~ I Support

You can fit a 65 in there. I have put an Interstate MTP65 in many Explorers over the years. Sometimes, those of us who don't like to play certain odds do what other people consider overkill. I can find no reason not to have the biggest best battery I can get in there installed.

As to the guy running 1/0 cable to his alternator, that is 1500% overkill. For those who don't know, 1/0 is considered 1 "aught" in size. It is about the size of the cable used in commercial buildings to supply 460 volts 3 phase power. I also make golf cart cables and I make them from welding cable. The biggest I make and sell are 2awg which is capable of 600V. (and about a third of the size of 1/0) Hell, just getting a connector for 1/0 is a challenge and makes it's installation in most applications difficult to say the least. The only applications where I've seen 1/0 used is on 15000 pound winches on really big full size lifted trucks.

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White 1998 Ranger XLT SuperCab 4.0 4x4 StepSide