2011 Ranger ,4 cyl.. I have a radar detector and a gps I want to hard wire into the fuse box so they power on only when the key is turned to the on position, the 2 12v sources supply power even when the key is off. Anyone know the fuse numbers/positions that may supply accessory power???

Have a owners manual? If you do the radio should work,if not someone will chime in to let you know.

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Do I need to up the fuse size??

I used something like this to tap in to the circuit.Guessing you could use the next size up. Make sure to order the same size spade fuse size,or take a fuse and pick one up at a local auto parts store. There again someone one else will chime in..Good Luck!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=sr_1_4&sr=8-4

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Do you have any places in your fuse panel without fuses but with power to them? Thats how I wired in some lights on my truck, Just took a voltmeter and checked each open slot and found one that had power when the truck was on but no power when it was off. I can llok and see which # but i'm sure they have changed the fuse box layout

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1994 Ford Ranger Splash. 4.0L, 4x4, 5 speed.Tracked MPG's - Totalled

1995 Ford Ranger XLT extended cab. 4.0L, 4x4, 5 speed. 2" suspension lift, 3" body lift. 33x12.50r15 bfg rubber on american racing wheels. Tracked MPG's

Tap your ignition or use constant and ignition to trigger a relay

Wiper fuse with a fusetap.

Got it thanks guys

I found the heater blower motor fuse works well and its easier to access. My question is where to ground it ? I don't see any metal bolts around the fuse panel I can use

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2010 4X4 Sport
Mississauga, ON

wtf?

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?????

I know it might be obvious but I just want to make sure I get a good ground besides isn't it the point of these forums ?? For those in the know to help those that aren't ?

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2010 4X4 Sport
Mississauga, ON

Sometimes I wonder why we dont see as many Ranger truck fires as we do Jeep ones...











.

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I can see I'm not going to get any help here

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2010 4X4 Sport
Mississauga, ON

Connect to the radio

Don't cut a corner and just tap a fuse, in the 12 volt world If I had an installer do that to a customers vehicle and send it out the door (S)he would be following that customer out the door.

Next...

Don't do that, every circuit in the vehicle has a specific load and a buffer for small spikes in the voltage. The blower motor is also a higher current accessory in the vehicle, NOT a good source for power.. not even temporary.

next....


Of course, and although some ideas shared [IMO] arent the best options or courses of action to take. You DID indeed get "help" by all whose interpretation of the best place to get power from offered there opinion. THATS the obvious.

Next...

Far from truth, the help you can recieve is what your willing to try, use, and apply. THAT being said..

You have two good choices, one being more creative than the other, and obviously several bad ones.. I don't sugar coat things, rather cynical guy, there are no short cuts or cheesy install instructions, but I'll make you learn for yourself. THATS where the shared knowledge comes in.

(a) Your simplest choice would be to pull the TPO knee cover and Steel plate behind it off. Should be a combination of 7mm and 8mm bolts. More for older years, less for new years. You should invest in either a computer safe test light or a DVOM both take a small amount of skill to use. I say you should have these in your tool box because even with wiring schematics or cheat-sheets as we call them. A wire color isnt always a 100% accurate and you should dbl check your work and connections anyways.

There is usually some black or gray plastic guard that covers the wires leading into the ignition switch under the steering column. Remove it, easy with pliers and a slight tug. It wont be going back in, discard it. You can effectively tap any of those wires (the right ones mind you) for constant or ignition/2nd ignition sourced leads. You can use the info below and the above tools to verify before making your connections. BTW, I recommend using military splices here, I dont like T-taps or cutting a wire if not needed down here. If i need to state the obvious for someone wanting to argue otherwise.. do let me know how i can help you.

• 12 VOLT CONSTANT RED (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH, GRAY 13-PIN PLUG, PIN 2
• STARTER BLUE/WHITE (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH, GRAY 13-PIN PLUG, PIN 5
• STARTER 2 N/A
• IGNITION 1 WHITE/ORANGE (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH, GRAY 13-PIN PLUG, PIN 1
• IGNITION 2 N/A
• IGNITION 3 N/A
• ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 1 BROWN/YELLOW (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH, GRAY 13-PIN PLUG, PIN 8
• ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 2 PURPLE/GREEN (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH, GRAY 13-PIN PLUG, PIN 3

If it were me, id set up your GPS for constant power get into the muscle memory of turning it off when not in use. That actual attention deficit device on an ignition or switched source. I'll leave it short at trust me on why.

Plan out how you're going to run wires, dont get cheap here if you're extending them. By cheap meaning, again take time to put some pride in your work and make good connections. Solder, wrap and tape, connectors.. here it doesn't matter so long as you do it properly. All can be good connection techniques. Just make sure to fuse your circuit, whether with a pre-made fuse holder or even two insulated female speaker connectors and a blade (ATC) fuse between.


(b) The second method would involve spending a bit more time and going in and behind the fuse box itself to make your connections. The above tools will be all you need to find the [OPEN] circuits available for you to use. There are both empty fuse slots to do this as well as a couple 2 or 3 power taping points. This can make fusing the circuit easier and clean looking.

sure they're both pretty low in power and YES, you could tap into another circuit. The issue here is concern for later diagnosis of future issues that could or may arise due to voltage/ground issues, a hyper sensitive circuit, incorrect tapping and creating shorts.. etc. We see it all the time on here. Some new issue, OP posts pics, and its a rat nest under the dash/kick plate, and hes upset hes got an electrical gremlin!

In either case, be mindful of wire lengths, use only what you need +/- room to move the harness. band your wires, and dont wad up the extra and shove it in. Should you want an informative article on both ways to work with wires and the mentioned military splice (post #6) Follow this link for additional help.

https://ford-rangers.com/view_topic....tary+splice%3F

Anything further with questions? Let us know........

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