I have a weird problem w/ my 1996 4WD Ranger. About 1 time out of five when I turn the key I get power up and a "clunk" but no cranking. If I keep trying it will eventually start normally, normal cranking speed, etc. 4/5 times it starts normally. It is most likely to occur 1st start of the day.

so far I have:
1. Bypassed the clutch interlock.
2. Replaced the starter.
3. Replaced the battery
4. Cleaned all ground and +12v contacts including battery.
5. Added 2 additional ground straps.

No change......anyone have any ideas?
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greyghost50
1996 XLT Extended Cab 4x4 Vulcan 3.0

Have you checked the starter solenoid?

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1995 Ford Ranger XL 3.0 Long bed
Gold color
matching Leer shell ♠ clear corners ♠ black tail lights ♠ Mustang dome ♠ Bugflector II ♠ throttle mod ♠ sound system:
Pioneer AVH-x5600BHS ✣ Diamond D672S ✣ Infinity Kappa 682.9cf ✣ Precision Power P900.4 ✣ Precision Power P1000.1 ✣ Massive CORE-1 ✣ Sundown SD-2 8" ✣
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I agree with Jabbo88, the starter solenoid would cause such an act. Most causes of what your having is power related, Starter not getting enough current that it needs from the battery to turn over.

A typical starter circuit is goes as follows: Battery, ignition switch, park neutral safety switch, Brake/ Clutch petal safety switch, starter solenoid/relay, starter motor, Related Fuses, and of course all the wiring in between.

A bad solenoid can be a source of starter problems. The solenoid acts like a relay to route power directly to the starter from the battery. It may be mounted on the starter or located elsewhere in the engine compartment i believe 96 ranger have one mounted on one of inside side fender wall and is usually connected to the positive battery cable. Corrosion, poor ground at the solenoid mount, or poor battery cable connections will prevent the solenoid from doing its job. A faulty or weak battery will also cause similar symptoms.

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2000 Ford Ranger XLT 4.0 OHV 4x4,33 Kenda MT Stock Rims,Grille Guard,IPF Lights,Electric Fan,rear class 3 receiver, Custom Front 2" receiver, 9000lbs wireless Winch on 2" receiver tray, Custom 3" Body Lift,Torsion Bar Crank,Rear Shackles 3",Modded Front Shocks(longer),Limit Straps,Custom Rear Bumper,Custom Headers-back Dual Exhaust, Glasspacks,Tool Box, Uniden CB Radio, Air Tank /w compressor, Train Horns, Custom Hidden Snorkel, Panasonic Double-Din Deck, 10" Rockford Fosgate P2 Punch Subwoofer

The battery has been replaced.
On the '96 3.0 the solenoid is integral with the starter so it has been replaced.

I agree that by far the 2 most likely problems are solenoid or a bad segment on the commutator but the new starter/solenoid should have ruled both of these out. I am stumped!

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greyghost50
1996 XLT Extended Cab 4x4 Vulcan 3.0

Where dId you add grounds? I usually move the ground cable leading from to battery, straight to one of the starter mounting bolts.
Have you replaced the 12v wire from the battery to the start yet?
Also Im wondering if the ignition is not giving a strong enough supply of 12v to activate the starter. You can test this by taking the ignition wire off the solinoid and supplying it power straight from the battery.

If none of these fix or produce a different result then u may want to get the new starter tested, cause that's everything starter related I can think of. The engine isn't seized?

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2000 Ford Ranger XLT 4.0 OHV 4x4,33 Kenda MT Stock Rims,Grille Guard,IPF Lights,Electric Fan,rear class 3 receiver, Custom Front 2" receiver, 9000lbs wireless Winch on 2" receiver tray, Custom 3" Body Lift,Torsion Bar Crank,Rear Shackles 3",Modded Front Shocks(longer),Limit Straps,Custom Rear Bumper,Custom Headers-back Dual Exhaust, Glasspacks,Tool Box, Uniden CB Radio, Air Tank /w compressor, Train Horns, Custom Hidden Snorkel, Panasonic Double-Din Deck, 10" Rockford Fosgate P2 Punch Subwoofer