It's about time I upgrade from Walmart batteries and I need some opinions.

I've heard good and bad about Optima, but I don't know a whole lot about batteries in general. It needs to be able to sit for extended periods of time and have a lot of CCA.

Also, I'm planning to upgrade my sound system and run dual batteries in series to lighten the load on the main battery. Would a normal dry cell car battery work ok? It may also be used to run a few other accessories.

__________________

I haven't tested it to extensively but I have an optima red top with 1000 cca, they most I've done with it is leave my aux backup light on so I could work on another car for about an hour, and I have a lot of accessories running off of it

__________________
Black 2008 ranger sport 4.0 SOHC SAS'd and converted to 4x4 riding on a Dana 50 up front and a sterling 10.50 in the rear regeared with 5.13's, mickey thompson classic 3's rapped in 37x12.50 maxxis creepy crawlers

Wait until spring if you can.

Batteries are like gold this time of year - even more so with these freezing temperatures across most of the US at the moment.

__________________
Curent 2003 Ford Mustang Mach 1 owner - Build Thread for her: Logan's 2003 Mach 1

Former 2003 Ford Ranger owner - Build Thread for her: Project Budget Buster

x2 on this^^^


My recommendation is a NAPA battery. My old boss that has run a construction company for over 30 years has never had anything other than NAPA for his batteries in all of his trucks and equipment and has never had any issues with them. My own personal experience with them is just as good. My alternator went out on me a few months ago, went out on a Saturday morning, drove my truck all day, let it sit over night without an alternator and my truck still fired up the next morning without a jump. I was surprised I didn't have to jump it. They have 3 ranges I just went with the standard Legend but if you really want to upgrade then go with the Legend Premium.

__________________
2008 Ford Ranger Sport 4x4 4.0L
-5 speed, undercoating, tinted windows, keyless entry, 3.73 gears
-Pioneer AVIC-F700BT GPS w/10" Pioneer woofer
-3 inch Performance Accessories Body Lift
-33x12.5 r 15 BFG M/T KM2's

I'm going to wait as long as I can. I just want to know what kind I should lean towards.

You guys think as long as I upgrade the battery I shouldn't have an issue?

Currently I have 600 watts and a few accessories beyond that.

In the future I could be 1000-1200 watts, so not a huge amount. I just thought the extra battery would be nice for when I want to run accessories with the engine off

__________________

For what it's worth I have had an Optima yellow top in my 2005 Edge for the last 3 years. The yellow top is a deep cycle battery, which might be a good choice if the vehicle sits for any length of time. It can handle the heat here in sunny southern Nevada and that is a big plus and a deep cycle battery is also good in cold weather. I am sure some will disagree, but I have had great luck here where the normal battery life is two years at best. Just my two cents.

DO NOT! DO NOT! DO NOT RUN YOUR BATTERIES IN SERIES OR IN PARALLEL EITHER!

If you hook the batteries in series you will have a 24 volt electrical system and blow every electrical device in your truck.

Think - When you jump start you hook + to + and - to -. TEMPORARILY. That makes more current (amps) available to you starter only long enough to fire it up.

Car batteries wired in parallel long term alternate discharging each other as they are not exactly alike.

What you need is a battery isolator. Some people use them to exclusively power a winch (or sound system) and leave the other battery to operate the vehicle.

The Optima is an expensive option, but as a sealed battery you could mount it anywhere, in any position.

__________________
2005 2.3L XL 5SOD 3.73 K&N
KYB Shocks Husky Toolbox
Alpine / Rockford Fosgate Sound

"Ask me about my AC Vent fix!"

I don't know why I said series, I was at work when I was typing it so I didn't really proofread.

I know you can't wire them together in parallel or series I guess in my mind I knew I needed the isolator, I just didn't say it

__________________

Good deal!


I considered that one of the hundreds that read this thread might come up with a big idea. An expensive idea. That's why I put in the long winded comment.

__________________
2005 2.3L XL 5SOD 3.73 K&N
KYB Shocks Husky Toolbox
Alpine / Rockford Fosgate Sound

"Ask me about my AC Vent fix!"

I spend most of the day at WallyWorld today getting my 4 month old maxx battery replaced.
Nobody knew how to key in for a replacement that was only 4 months old & they wanted me to buy a new battery even though I still had 4 years & 8 months warranty (2 years & 8 months if they were to count it as the 3 year free replacement warranty).
Had to go up the chain of command until someone who had the same issue before was able to get things straightened out.

I've kinda got a bad taste with wally world's batteries lately, the first one I got long ago lasted nearly 9 years without an issue until one day it just crapped out on me.
Should note that that old battery only cost around $70 where they run over $110 today.

Ever since then, they only last 2-3 years under very light use (no stereo running with the truck off, etc) Probably doesn't help that I don't drive the ranger as much as I used to, but you'd think even the bargain basement batteries would last more than a couple years.

__________________

If you're serious about upgrading your electrical system with lots of electrical toys, you should really consider the "BIG THREE". Upgrade your main battery, upgrade your alternator, and upgrade the associated wiring that goes with it. I too have a ton of accessories and this is the advice I was given, and it is very sound advice!

Remember: Battery is for power when the truck is off. Alternator is for power when the truck is on. Your stock alternator is ~90A. So if you run 120A worth of electronics, the battery has to make up that extra 30A. So you'd actually be draining your battery while driving around. Upgrade your alternator, and now you can power everything you want and keep your big battery (or batteries if you still do a dual setup) charged.

Myself, I have an Optima Yellowtop and I love it. No problems in the heat or the freezing temps. Went camping last year and had 4 55W lights running for about 2 hours, plugged in my inverter to watch a movie (TV and PS2), then inflated an air mattress, went to bed and left my cap speakers on all night. Woke up the next day and it fired right up.

I upgraded my alternator to a 250A alternator, and upgraded to 0ga wiring between battery, alt, and starter.

Right now with the truck running I can power everything normal, plus:
- 2 heated seats
- 2 55w fog lights
- 2 100w spotlight
- 1 250w subwoofer
- 2 55w alley lights
- 2 55w reverse lights
with no drop on the ammeter or dimming of any lights.


I'm still looking into dual battery setup down the road, mainly for when I get a winch and on board air aystem. Look into getting a battery isolater/combiner. It allows you to switch between being 2 separate batteries and batteries in parallel with the flip of a switch. http://www.hellroaring.com/bic75300.php

__________________
Dennis Brady

Black 2001 4x2 XLT Supercab 3.0 "Shadow" - WIA

Black 2001 4x4 EDGE Supercab 4.0 ('Body donor' for Shadow lol)

Build thread:
http://www.fordrangerforum.com/proje...adow-redo.html

I am running a single optima yellow top. Works great with my 10000lb warn winch. But I plan on doing what mike did for sure.

__________________

Interesting post. I had a situation in Feb. 2011 when my OEM Motorcraft crapped out when I happened to be at the mall. I went to Sears, and they tested my battery and said that it was bad. However, they did not have one in stock to help me, so I went next door to Wal-Mart and instead of buying a 59 class that the Ranger takes, I bought a 58 class one (still suitable). I grabbed the last one on the shelf, and it was for the lower EverMax not the EverMax Plus. I was given only a two-year free replacement warranty, and the price was around $67 + tax, or $73. It lasted about 34 months, which I'm pretty happy with. Last Friday, it was brutal cold, and it wouldn't crank. Ironic, because Sun. I was about to jump the Ranger, and I decided for giggles to try starting it. I was surprised that I got the car to turn over, and I drove to Advance to have the battery tested. I priced all the chains, and the cheapest was Wal-Mart. They sell a Duracell in my area for around $95 with only a 2 or three year free replacement, I believe. So, I didn't want to deal with Sears again, and I priced comparable batteries at Autozone, O'Reilly's, and Advance. Advance had the best deal at $112 + tax for a 5 year battery (2 or 3 year free replacement, the last pro-rated). Good luck. This weather is terrible on batteries, and I know that Johnson Controls manufacturers roughly 75% of all brands. They are basically all rebadged, so no matter the exact brand, it is finding the best deal, and I don't necessarily believe that stores purposely raise prices now in Winter because of demand.

Your not done with that yet? Figured you would be all over it. I love my set up

__________________
Supercharged and DBR long travel 2003 FX4 on 305/70R16 MTRs, Torsen LS FR ECTED RR 4.56 Yukons with cobra brakes, lots of expo parts and other mods

Build thread http://www.fordrangerforum.com/proje...cue-truck.html

Support Search and Rescue ... GET LOST!

Interstate! Mines from 03 and has 850 CCA

__________________
96 Ford Ranger 2.3 - Loads of mods
03 DSG Mustang GT 5 spd- CAI, Flowmaster cat back, Sequential tail lights, 70mm T.B. 265/305
1992 GMC C1500 4.3 Long Bed 91K