First off, i've done some searching and researching on this topic and have a lot of different opinions and information, so I wanted to get a more personal response.

I have a 2002 3.0 Ranger with an automatic - truck has 151xxx miles on it. I bought the truck with about 117k miles on it. In that time, it has never had a trans fluid change or filter replacement (no idea about changes before my ownership). There is NO noticable transmission problems (maybe an occasional delayed reverse shift) - shifts smooth down the road. I would like to change the fluid and filter for general maintenance. Fluid is now a red-brown hue.

I have purchased a filter and gasket kit and 12 quarts of mercon V and originally planned to use a pump to pump as much out of the pan as possible, replace filter and reinstall pan, then add the same amount of new fluid in - then proceed to change the rest of the fluid with a cooler line drain a quart - add a quart method.

I have read some things online that make me hesitant now about replacing all the fluid (or as much as possible). Things like "failure", and slipping because the all new fluid is too slippery for a transmission of this many miles.

Should I go ahead and do a full replacement via a cooler line, or just pump as much out through the dipstick then drop the pan - replace the equivalent?

I will not be doing a "flush" and I will not add/ use any additives or cleaners.

Thanks for your insight.

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2002 Ranger XLT 3.0
General Grabber AT2 31/10.5/15, 15x7 ATX Slot, Hot girlfriend for passenger seat, Fabtech 2.5", Bilstein 5100, Poly Bumps, JBA Ceramic Coated Headers, Straigh pipe, Throttle Cable Mod, Air Box Mod, 5 Angle Valve Job, 180* Thermostat, Clear corners w/ Amber LEDs, Tinted Tails, 6000K Volt Digital HID Hi/Lo, K&N Drop-In, MAF Mod,

I am interested to see what people say. I have heard that once you break the 100k mile mark on original fluid, don't change it.

Personally, I think I would drop the pan, change the filter and call it good for a year an then repeat. Replacing 30%-40% should put some good lubricant in without a "shock" to the transmission.

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Current: 2004 Explorer Sport Trac 4x4 4.0 Auto Sonic Blue Pearl
Sold: 2000 B2500 SE 2wd Medium Willow Green
Sold: 1996 Ranger XLT 4x4 4.0L SuperCab Medium Willow Green
Sold: 1996 Ranger XLT 2wd FlareSide Medium Willow Green

I also want input on this cause I'm gonna replace all the fluid in mine

Sent from my iPhone 5 so I can tell you to search wherever I may be

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2017 Lightning Blue Mustang GT PP 430/402
CJ Pony Parts Lowering Springs | Texas Speed Longtubes | PMAS CAI | Lund Tuned | Borla S-Type Catback
2013 F150 FX4 5.0 - Sold
1998 Jeep Wrangler TJ 4.0 5spd - Sold
2001 Mustang Bullitt - Sold
2005 Level II - Sold
2001 Integra GSR - Sold
1999 XLT - May 2013 TOTM - Totaled

I have done lots of the full pump outs using the cooler line and the cars own pump. After you do the pan drop/drain and add about 3 or 4 fresh quarts start the car with the return line remove. It only takes a few seconds to pump out one quart. Turn the car off. Add a fresh quart. Repeat. You will see the change in fluid that tells you your done. I have never had a problem doing this

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2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).

I have heard this method, how safe is this? I mean how many quarts low can a trans be without pumping dry?

__________________
Current: 2004 Explorer Sport Trac 4x4 4.0 Auto Sonic Blue Pearl
Sold: 2000 B2500 SE 2wd Medium Willow Green
Sold: 1996 Ranger XLT 4x4 4.0L SuperCab Medium Willow Green
Sold: 1996 Ranger XLT 2wd FlareSide Medium Willow Green

You have 3 or 4 quarts in the pan. The rest runs through the TC and tranny. Kind of like a "rope" of fluid. You pump out one quart at a time. You never run dry
I have done it at least 20 times

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2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).

This is just kind of a side note, as I planned to use the drain a quart add a quart method, but I came across an article from Popular Mechanics about changing your transmission fluid.. they said to pop the cooler line and run the car in neutral until the line "STARTS SPURTING AIR." they say nothing about adding as you go as necessary, just that you can as a flushing like effect. Then you'd replace the filter and completely refill.

Now, this seems crazy to pump it all out... just wondering others thoughts

__________________
2002 Ranger XLT 3.0
General Grabber AT2 31/10.5/15, 15x7 ATX Slot, Hot girlfriend for passenger seat, Fabtech 2.5", Bilstein 5100, Poly Bumps, JBA Ceramic Coated Headers, Straigh pipe, Throttle Cable Mod, Air Box Mod, 5 Angle Valve Job, 180* Thermostat, Clear corners w/ Amber LEDs, Tinted Tails, 6000K Volt Digital HID Hi/Lo, K&N Drop-In, MAF Mod,

I was considering this method for my wife's trailblazer when I install a tranny cooler.

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I read a DIY on a Chevy form that said to do this also. Sounds like a great way to shorten the life of your tranny pump.

__________________
Current: 2004 Explorer Sport Trac 4x4 4.0 Auto Sonic Blue Pearl
Sold: 2000 B2500 SE 2wd Medium Willow Green
Sold: 1996 Ranger XLT 4x4 4.0L SuperCab Medium Willow Green
Sold: 1996 Ranger XLT 2wd FlareSide Medium Willow Green

I figured it wasn't ideal, but was wondering if it was disasterous. Definitely sounds better to use a drain and add method

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It would certainly make it easier though!

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2002 Ranger XLT 3.0
General Grabber AT2 31/10.5/15, 15x7 ATX Slot, Hot girlfriend for passenger seat, Fabtech 2.5", Bilstein 5100, Poly Bumps, JBA Ceramic Coated Headers, Straigh pipe, Throttle Cable Mod, Air Box Mod, 5 Angle Valve Job, 180* Thermostat, Clear corners w/ Amber LEDs, Tinted Tails, 6000K Volt Digital HID Hi/Lo, K&N Drop-In, MAF Mod,

Spurting air is not what I want. I only sanction my method. It is logical. The tranny never runs dry. You will see the distinct change of fluid coming from the return line

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You don't need that pump you bought if you are dropping the pan. Only pump out the pan if you are not dropping it

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IMHO. I have never bought into the theory of new fluids ruins your dirty tranny. Maybe it had some credibility in the 1970"s. The fluids today last longer and are better. If your fluid is so bad the tranny was going to fail anyways. In other words get all that crappy fluid out. And do the same to your power steering. It will come out like chocolate milk!

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2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).

I wound be very interested in how to change p/s fluid

__________________
Current: 2004 Explorer Sport Trac 4x4 4.0 Auto Sonic Blue Pearl
Sold: 2000 B2500 SE 2wd Medium Willow Green
Sold: 1996 Ranger XLT 4x4 4.0L SuperCab Medium Willow Green
Sold: 1996 Ranger XLT 2wd FlareSide Medium Willow Green

Go to the end if this thread i am helping the guy with flushing His ps. Power steering leaking HUGE amounts. HELP!

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2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).

Oh easy, thanks

__________________
Current: 2004 Explorer Sport Trac 4x4 4.0 Auto Sonic Blue Pearl
Sold: 2000 B2500 SE 2wd Medium Willow Green
Sold: 1996 Ranger XLT 4x4 4.0L SuperCab Medium Willow Green
Sold: 1996 Ranger XLT 2wd FlareSide Medium Willow Green

The pump is nothing special - its cheap hand pump made to transfer fluids from one place to another - not an expensive powered pump. I am hoping it can be used to get as much out through the dipstick to minimize the mess of dropping the pan..

__________________
2002 Ranger XLT 3.0
General Grabber AT2 31/10.5/15, 15x7 ATX Slot, Hot girlfriend for passenger seat, Fabtech 2.5", Bilstein 5100, Poly Bumps, JBA Ceramic Coated Headers, Straigh pipe, Throttle Cable Mod, Air Box Mod, 5 Angle Valve Job, 180* Thermostat, Clear corners w/ Amber LEDs, Tinted Tails, 6000K Volt Digital HID Hi/Lo, K&N Drop-In, MAF Mod,

Better of with a big square container. After you remove the bolts you peal down a corner and let the fluid out. The pump is just an extra step. Either way it is messy.

__________________
2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).