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  #1  
Old 06-04-2013, 05:01 PM
Dutch Rutter Dutch Rutter is offline
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Default tranny help is needed.

Hey guys, just replaced my clutch which was really needed. And now its really hard/near impossible to get it into gear. Never had this problem before. We gravity bleed it as best we could and it is engaging however I am skeptical thatvit is fully engaging. The cluych itself is also engaging veey low on the pedal. I asked a local mechanic and he said that it sound normal minus the hard to shift part. Any ideas?
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1999 Ford Ranger 3.0l, 4wd, M/T, rear locker, SC Tuner, 2 10"s sitting on 30"s (Daily driver)
1986 Chevy 3/4 ton built 350 2wd A/T 5MPG (My toy)
2004 Subaru WRX stage 2 290hp (wife's Daily driver, My turbo toy)
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  #2  
Old 06-04-2013, 05:13 PM
edgeman4.0 edgeman4.0 is offline
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Default Re: tranny help is needed.

Did you also replace the slave cylinder?

Nice user name by the way. Lol

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  #3  
Old 06-04-2013, 05:32 PM
Dutch Rutter Dutch Rutter is offline
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Yep master, slave, flywheel, clutch, pressure plate and pilot bearing the whole works.

Thanks its a nickname that stuck after basic training.

----------

My only thought of a fix it another bleed doesent do it would be to shim somehow behind the master cylinder so its closer to the pressure plates
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1999 Ford Ranger 3.0l, 4wd, M/T, rear locker, SC Tuner, 2 10"s sitting on 30"s (Daily driver)
1986 Chevy 3/4 ton built 350 2wd A/T 5MPG (My toy)
2004 Subaru WRX stage 2 290hp (wife's Daily driver, My turbo toy)
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  #4  
Old 06-04-2013, 05:49 PM
1997Ranger4x4 1997Ranger4x4 is offline
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Did you let the reservoir run dry? Cause if you did you will never have the same pedal. Me and a couple of guys i know have replaced a few clutches in rangers and the only way to get it back right is a new clutch master cylinder or to pump the hell outta the pedal a million times. But pumping the pedal gives it a totally different feel then it should.
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  #5  
Old 06-04-2013, 06:04 PM
Dutch Rutter Dutch Rutter is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1997Ranger4x4 View Post
Did you let the reservoir run dry? Cause if you did you will never have the same pedal. Me and a couple of guys i know have replaced a few clutches in rangers and the only way to get it back right is a new clutch master cylinder or to pump the hell outta the pedal a million times. But pumping the pedal gives it a totally different feel then it should.
The master that I got was dry when I installed it. But other then that it wasent dry. Would that be the same?
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1999 Ford Ranger 3.0l, 4wd, M/T, rear locker, SC Tuner, 2 10"s sitting on 30"s (Daily driver)
1986 Chevy 3/4 ton built 350 2wd A/T 5MPG (My toy)
2004 Subaru WRX stage 2 290hp (wife's Daily driver, My turbo toy)
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  #6  
Old 06-04-2013, 06:14 PM
1997Ranger4x4 1997Ranger4x4 is offline
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That's probably the problem. There is still air in the system. You might have to pull the clutch master back off and and rebleed the master, the only way I had have heard of getting all the air out is by holding it upside down and tryin to bleed it. It's weird and there are videos online that show you.
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  #7  
Old 06-04-2013, 06:25 PM
Dutch Rutter Dutch Rutter is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1997Ranger4x4 View Post
That's probably the problem. There is still air in the system. You might have to pull the clutch master back off and and rebleed the master, the only way I had have heard of getting all the air out is by holding it upside down and tryin to bleed it. It's weird and there are videos online that show you.
Hummm. I didn't try that. I might just take it to a local mechanic and have them pressure bleed it. I don't think it costs too much. And it is a huge pain to pull that thing out lol.
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1999 Ford Ranger 3.0l, 4wd, M/T, rear locker, SC Tuner, 2 10"s sitting on 30"s (Daily driver)
1986 Chevy 3/4 ton built 350 2wd A/T 5MPG (My toy)
2004 Subaru WRX stage 2 290hp (wife's Daily driver, My turbo toy)
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  #8  
Old 06-04-2013, 06:35 PM
cowboybilly9mile cowboybilly9mile is offline
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Default Re: tranny help is needed.

Your hydraulics on the clutch are NOT fully bled and you DO have air in the system. If you do a google here or in youtube, you will find a good video that shows you how to do this correctly. And correctly will mean removing the master cyl and hose from the vehicle for bleeding. Not hard, just gotta do it, they're picky and touchy.
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  #9  
Old 06-04-2013, 07:06 PM
Dutch Rutter Dutch Rutter is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cowboybilly9mile View Post
Your hydraulics on the clutch are NOT fully bled and you DO have air in the system. If you do a google here or in youtube, you will find a good video that shows you how to do this correctly. And correctly will mean removing the master cyl and hose from the vehicle for bleeding. Not hard, just gotta do it, they're picky and touchy.
I agree that I did not get all of the air out of the system I wasent sure if that was the entire problem. But from every bodies feed back I'm confident that's it.

Now correct me if I'm wrong but a mechanic can do what's called a pressure bleed where he takes a injector type of tool and pumps brake fluid into the system from the bleed valve on the bottom to the top thus removing the air. This way I won't have to drop everything again.
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1999 Ford Ranger 3.0l, 4wd, M/T, rear locker, SC Tuner, 2 10"s sitting on 30"s (Daily driver)
1986 Chevy 3/4 ton built 350 2wd A/T 5MPG (My toy)
2004 Subaru WRX stage 2 290hp (wife's Daily driver, My turbo toy)
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  #10  
Old 06-04-2013, 07:26 PM
cowboybilly9mile cowboybilly9mile is offline
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Default Re: tranny help is needed.

The top of the MC is higher than any point that will let the offending air out, you need to remove the MC or you will fight this until you do. FWIW, I know what power bleeders are, they've been around for a long time, that's not the problem here, it's the config of the system in a Ranger that's the problem when it comes time to bleed.

Find *that* youtube vid, the one made by some shop, it will be your friend in this endeavour.
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Last edited by cowboybilly9mile; 06-04-2013 at 07:28 PM.
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  #11  
Old 06-04-2013, 07:58 PM
Dutch Rutter Dutch Rutter is offline
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Default Re: tranny help is needed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cowboybilly9mile View Post
The top of the MC is higher than any point that will let the offending air out, you need to remove the MC or you will fight this until you do. FWIW, I know what power bleeders are, they've been around for a long time, that's not the problem here, it's the config of the system in a Ranger that's the problem when it comes time to bleed.

Find *that* youtube vid, the one made by some shop, it will be your friend in this endeavour.
Oh ok that makes sense.


Heres the link just in case anyone else needs it. I kinda hoped that the Power bleeder would do it but from what the video and you both describe it won't, I can now see why. I will do their test tomorrow and I'm sure that I will find air in the Master cylinder. I'll report back with my findings.

This is the first time that I've had to replace a clutch, so far I was just happy that It was able to get into gear, and after trrying to drive it for a day I realized that another month I'd end up with a really beefed up right arm. thanks for the help guys.
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1999 Ford Ranger 3.0l, 4wd, M/T, rear locker, SC Tuner, 2 10"s sitting on 30"s (Daily driver)
1986 Chevy 3/4 ton built 350 2wd A/T 5MPG (My toy)
2004 Subaru WRX stage 2 290hp (wife's Daily driver, My turbo toy)
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