I have been seeing a lot of folks asking questions about swapping in a manual transmission in place of their automatic. Personnel opinion, good idea, I know there are those who disagree. Anyway, I started writing a tutorial of the parts needed to do this swap, it is general, and meant to be that way, I am posting it here for feed back as to what I have forgotten, so read it and post what you think I forgot.
Swap out an automatic for a manual in an RBV
Over the last couple of months this question has been asked a lot on different forums. I am going to try to remember all the parts that need to come from the donor vehicle.
The computer, without it the engine will run fine, but it won’t go down the road very well. The automatic computer is looking for the torque converter lock-up that isn’t there anymore.
The clutch master cylinder, actuating rod, neutral safety switch, and the reservoir. You will need to keep the hose from the reservoir and the line to the slave cylinder in the bell-housing. There are 2 types of connectors for the slave cylinder that I have seen, one is a hair pin looking thing that fits into a hole in the slave cylinder to keep the line/end attached to the slave. The other is a round piece that has a white collar on it, use something to push the collar toward the slave while pulling the line/end out of the slave. The later has fingers on the interior that hold the tube end in place, you need to slip the plastic piece under those fingers to release the end piece, they call it quick detach, don’t believe it.
The flywheel, clutch and pressure plate. Note: the flywheel from a 4.0L will fit a 2.9, but you will need the 4.0L clutch, it is a recommended upgrade. A new clutch release bearing and pilot bushing (bearing) would be good to install now as well.
Transmission; this is up to the individual. Note:
The transmission will have to have the same bell-housing bolt pattern that you are installing it onto, 2.8L, 2.9L and 4.0L (M5OD-R1 or any of the earlier if you aren't putting a 4.0L against it). Note:
the transmission from a 4.0L SOHC (M5OD-R1HD) will bolt directly to any of the others listed above, the difference is you will have an empty hole in the bell-housing at 2 o’clock. The extension housing on the M5OD-R1HD more than likely will not have a provision for a manual shift lever. Almost all were for electric shift transfer cases, these extension housings also have a hole for an ODD sensor which was used when the ODD sensor was moved from the rear axle.
The 3.0L will require a transmission and flywheel plus the parts listed above, from a 3.0L.
The 2.0L, 2.3L and the 2.3L DOHC all require the 2.3L transmission and flywheel plus the parts listed above. I believe the 2.5L falls in this too.
You will need to get the transmission that matches the vehicle you are going to install the manual transmission in, 4x2, 4x4. The exception to that is a 4x2 Bronco II that has not had the transmission changed to a 2 wheel drive transmission, they had a dummy transfer case.
When getting a transmission for a 4x4, it is advisable to get the transfer case shifter with the extension housing, (manual shift transfers only) the housing come in at least 3 different lengths which means a longer arm on some or the arm points in a different direction. You will also want to get the wiring harness. This link will help in the transmission ID and selection phase: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...nsmission.html
. There is much more information available here in their tech library. This link deals with the M5OD only, and the 1354 transfer case, but is very informative: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...d.php?t=250083
Clutch pedal, probably the best way to go is a complete pedal assembly, but just the pedals can be used, it is a real bear to get the pin out and back in while it is under the dash. Dash removal and re-installation is petty straight forward, but pretty time consuming. This link will help in the dash removal: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...highlight=dash
Drive shafts will have to either come from a donor that is the same wheel base or you will have to get one built, possibly find one at a wrecking yard that is the correct length and has the correct u-joints.
While on this subject, stay away from constant velocity style drive shaft. If you have to replace one of these, get a u-joint drive shaft. Most any backyard mechanic can change a u-joint, not so with constant velocity, and the price difference is extreme.