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  #1  
Old 05-05-2013, 07:04 AM
cygrads cygrads is offline
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Default Won't go into gear

I have a 2001 Ford Ranger Edge 3.0 V6 5 speed manual and it won't go into gear. I have replace the clutch, slave cylinder and master cylinder with not joy. We did bench bleed the line when we replaced the master so I think we've done everything right but it won't go into gear. I saw on another thread a similar problem and the owner said his mechanic replaced the safety master switch and that fixed it - is that possible?
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  #2  
Old 05-05-2013, 07:07 AM
96_4x4_XLT 96_4x4_XLT is offline
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Originally Posted by cygrads View Post
I have a 2001 Ford Ranger Edge 3.0 V6 5 speed manual and it won't go into gear. I have replace the clutch, slave cylinder and master cylinder with not joy. We did bench bleed the line when we replaced the master so I think we've done everything right but it won't go into gear. I saw on another thread a similar problem and the owner said his mechanic replaced the safety master switch and that fixed it - is that possible?
idk the safety switch would keep it from going into gear
It might be something in the transmission it self or there is still air in the system
Try bleeding it again
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95 Ranger XLT 4x2 2.3 I4 5 speed 206,000 *dead*
96 Ranger XLT 4x4 4.0 V6 5 speed 173,000 *alive*
D35 front, 8.8 rear, 3.73 gears, limited slip rear diff
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  #3  
Old 05-05-2013, 07:27 AM
cygrads cygrads is offline
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Default Re: Won't go into gear

I should add that the clutch pedal still feels soft. We did the bench bleeding of the master and then installed and ran fluid through the system to bleed again - hard to believe it is still a bleeding problem...
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  #4  
Old 05-05-2013, 07:30 AM
96_4x4_XLT 96_4x4_XLT is offline
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Originally Posted by cygrads View Post
I should add that the clutch pedal still feels soft. We did the bench bleeding of the master and then installed and ran fluid through the system to bleed again - hard to believe it is still a bleeding problem...
Bleed the system again
Get a long clear tube and hook it up to the bleeder and run it to the master, open the bleeder and just pump the clutch till your leg falls off and if that doesn't work I would say something in the tranny is broken
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95 Ranger XLT 4x2 2.3 I4 5 speed 206,000 *dead*
96 Ranger XLT 4x4 4.0 V6 5 speed 173,000 *alive*
D35 front, 8.8 rear, 3.73 gears, limited slip rear diff
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  #5  
Old 05-05-2013, 07:42 AM
wernlia wernlia is offline
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Default Re: Won't go into gear

I am giving Cygrads a hand with the truck.

The original problem was, the truck had very soft pedal feel. The clutch did not slip prior to this. We bled the system and had no luck.

The truck has 14x,xxx miles on it so we figured it was time to throw some fresh parts on it.

We replaced the clutch/pressure plate and slave cylinder.

Got everything put back together. Bled the system again and the clutch pedal feels exactly the same as before.

I spoke to a friend who was a ford tech for a few years. We discussed how we were bleeding the system. His advice was the master went bad.

So that is when we pulled the old master/line out, replaced with a new master and bench bled the system.

There are no cracks in the lines that would cause a leak. When we bench bled the master it got very tight.

When the truck is off you can row from gear to gear no problem.
When the truck is running, it makes no abnormal noises.

The clutch disk is installed correctly, facing the correct way.

Now to my question

Is it possible we got a faulty slave cylinder from orileys?

One part we did not replace was the crankshaft needle bearing. I do not have a slide hammer and do not know how else to get it out. Would it be causing issues?

Thanks for the help
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  #6  
Old 05-05-2013, 07:45 AM
96_4x4_XLT 96_4x4_XLT is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wernlia View Post
I am giving Cygrads a hand with the truck.

The original problem was, the truck had very soft pedal feel. The clutch did not slip prior to this. We bled the system and had no luck.

The truck has 14x,xxx miles on it so we figured it was time to throw some fresh parts on it.

We replaced the clutch/pressure plate and slave cylinder.

Got everything put back together. Bled the system again and the clutch pedal feels exactly the same as before.

I spoke to a friend who was a ford tech for a few years. We discussed how we were bleeding the system. His advice was the master went bad.

So that is when we pulled the old master/line out, replaced with a new master and bench bled the system.

There are no cracks in the lines that would cause a leak. When we bench bled the master it got very tight.

When the truck is off you can row from gear to gear no problem.
When the truck is running, it makes no abnormal noises.

The clutch disk is installed correctly, facing the correct way.

Now to my question

Is it possible we got a faulty slave cylinder from orileys?

One part we did not replace was the crankshaft needle bearing. I do not have a slide hammer and do not know how else to get it out. Would it be causing issues?

Thanks for the help
It is possible for the slave to be bad it could be a sour part it's happened to me before
I would try bleeding it again like I said
Put before that pull the inspection cover on the trans and have someone push the clutch and see if the slave is moving the pressure plate
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95 Ranger XLT 4x2 2.3 I4 5 speed 206,000 *dead*
96 Ranger XLT 4x4 4.0 V6 5 speed 173,000 *alive*
D35 front, 8.8 rear, 3.73 gears, limited slip rear diff
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  #7  
Old 05-05-2013, 07:54 AM
wernlia wernlia is offline
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Default Re: Won't go into gear

I have done that, regardless of the truck running or not the slave provides pressure against the pressure plate when the clutch is pushed in. It looks exactly the same, granted I have no way of measuring how much the the pressure plate is exactly being depressed.

We can trying bleeding it again. It just seems insane for there to be air in the system. When it was bench bled and then once reinstall we ran at least 3-4 reservoirs of fluid through it. Just seems nuts there could possibly be air still in it.
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  #8  
Old 05-05-2013, 08:04 AM
96_4x4_XLT 96_4x4_XLT is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wernlia View Post
I have done that, regardless of the truck running or not the slave provides pressure against the pressure plate when the clutch is pushed in. It looks exactly the same, granted I have no way of measuring how much the the pressure plate is exactly being depressed.

We can trying bleeding it again. It just seems insane for there to be air in the system. When it was bench bled and then once reinstall we ran at least 3-4 reservoirs of fluid through it. Just seems nuts there could possibly be air still in it.
I know it does but cars do weird things sometimes
is the pressure plate even moving when you push the pedal
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95 Ranger XLT 4x2 2.3 I4 5 speed 206,000 *dead*
96 Ranger XLT 4x4 4.0 V6 5 speed 173,000 *alive*
D35 front, 8.8 rear, 3.73 gears, limited slip rear diff
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  #9  
Old 05-05-2013, 08:14 AM
wernlia wernlia is offline
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Default Re: Won't go into gear

Yes, it is pushing in the fingers on the pressure plate. Problem is I am not sure how to measure how far they are.

Another member sent me a video on checking to ensure the driveshaft can spin while the clutch is pressed.

Looks like we will give that a shot.

Try to bleed it some more then if those dont work set it on fire.

Kidding. However if that does not work it looks like we have either a faulty slave or master.

The master when bench bleeding holds pressure just fine. Which leads me to believe the slave is not transferring that pressure to the pressure plate and that could be the cause of our issues.
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  #10  
Old 05-05-2013, 08:19 AM
lurch lurch is offline
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I read a thread on here when I was trying to bleed my system and the guy was having the same problem as you guys and he later found out that the pressure plate was not on tight. He had followed the torque specs but they were not enough. Once he tightened the pressure plate it worked fine. Just something else to consider
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  #11  
Old 05-05-2013, 08:33 AM
wernlia wernlia is offline
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Default Re: Won't go into gear

I hate to admit I did not torque them down, however they are on there more snug than when I took them off and used red locktight on them.

Another member sent me this video.

I suppose if the clutch is not moving enough to let the driveshaft spin that verifies we have a problem. lol
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  #12  
Old 05-05-2013, 08:35 AM
lurch lurch is offline
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I did not torque mine either when I did my clutch and I was fine. That was just in case you did torque yours when you did it
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  #13  
Old 05-05-2013, 08:53 AM
Rangerman49 Rangerman49 is offline
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Default Re: Won't go into gear

Quote:
Originally Posted by wernlia View Post
I hate to admit I did not torque them down, however they are on there more snug than when I took them off and used red locktight on them.

Another member sent me this video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=91IYY_YENRw

I suppose if the clutch is not moving enough to let the driveshaft spin that verifies we have a problem. lol

If you didn't bench bleed like this video, then you still have air in the system.
Get a tape measure and check the travel to confirm.
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2011 Ranger XLT 2x4,4.0 SOHC, 5 Speed Auto, 3.55 Rear. Oxford White.

Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.

Torque it down till it breaks off, then back it off 1/4 turn.
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  #14  
Old 05-05-2013, 09:22 AM
wernlia wernlia is offline
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Default Re: Won't go into gear

We have pulled all the lines, hung them and bled the system that way.

Pedal feels no different than from before we started working on it.
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  #15  
Old 05-05-2013, 09:51 AM
Rangerman49 Rangerman49 is offline
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Default Re: Won't go into gear

Quote:
Originally Posted by wernlia View Post
We have pulled all the lines, hung them and bled the system that way.

Pedal feels no different than from before we started working on it.

Ok, so when you remove the line from the slave you have a firm petal ?? If not the slave is letting air into the system.
And I know this sounds stupid but I have to ask, is the throw out bearing installed in the right direction, believe me I've seen it done wrong...
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2011 Ranger XLT 2x4,4.0 SOHC, 5 Speed Auto, 3.55 Rear. Oxford White.

Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.

Torque it down till it breaks off, then back it off 1/4 turn.
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