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10-24-2010, 06:43 PM
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Here, hold my beer
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 44
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Re: shift correction kit questions??
Well it really was more like 30 now that I think back.
I got the separator plate kit in along with the dimpled valve per TSB 03-22-10.
It seems to have made quite a difference, I also reset the computer by disconnecting the battery and then going through the cold and warm programs to relearn .
I drove it around for 30 min towards the end I had some slight flare 2-3rd gear again but no where near as bad. Is this normal ?
I also disconnected the line from the cooler and slowly drained and replaced all the fluid ( 13 quarts ) till it was coming out fresh.
The bolt had come out right next to the solenoids right where the gasket had blown out, the gasket was also missing next to the large plate covering the plunger.
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10-28-2010, 04:41 PM
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Here, hold my beer
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 44
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Re: shift correction kit questions??
Yup ! Level and full : ( dang wish I woulda changed the solenoid when I was in there
Can you tell me where it is and what the name is to give the dealer ?
Also can I change it without pulling the valve body again ?
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10-30-2010, 06:30 PM
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Learning to use the forums
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 10
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Re: shift correction kit questions??
Fixed my trans problem works like new now yup fix was easy total cost 0 guy who put new heads on my truck din't hook the small vacum line that goes to heater control valve................ sometimes its just best to do it yourself. also changed plugs an wires and a new coil just becuase.
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11-06-2010, 01:03 PM
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Rangerooter!
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 117
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Re: shift correction kit questions??
Just got back home after a long week out on the road...ugh! Now to answer some questions...
Pioneerscot: Yes, you can change the solenoid without pulling the valve body. Just be careful as there are some sharp edges which bare no conscience! The solenoid I was referring to is the EPC solenoid. It's only job is to control the fluid pressure. It has a screen in it that clogs pretty easy allowing it to stick under wide open throttle. The BorgWarner part number is A56431A. The secret to keeping this solenoid alive is SERVICE. I always stress in my classes that 85% of transmission failure is due to lack of transmission service. It is just as important to service the transmission as it is to service the engine. I change my fluid and filter every 6 months and will do a flush every 18 months...despite what the dealers or manufacturers tell you...Please keep in mind that the dealers and manufacturing are in business to make money...um...after warranty...The 2-3 split issue is probily permanent damage and can only be corrected by an overhaul, but as long as it is functioning at a level you can handle, I would run it till it shows other symptoms...And I stress...DO NOT RUN IT TILL IT DROPS!!!LOL I have seen this alot....not pretty...or cheap! I will be home for the rest of the week, so if anyone needs any more info, feel free to post.
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11-08-2010, 10:26 AM
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Here, hold my beer
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 44
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Re: shift correction kit questions??
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonncarr
Just got back home after a long week out on the road...ugh! Now to answer some questions...
Pioneerscot: Yes, you can change the solenoid without pulling the valve body. Just be careful as there are some sharp edges which bare no conscience! The solenoid I was referring to is the EPC solenoid. It's only job is to control the fluid pressure. It has a screen in it that clogs pretty easy allowing it to stick under wide open throttle. The BorgWarner part number is A56431A. The secret to keeping this solenoid alive is SERVICE. I always stress in my classes that 85% of transmission failure is due to lack of transmission service. It is just as important to service the transmission as it is to service the engine. I change my fluid and filter every 6 months and will do a flush every 18 months...despite what the dealers or manufacturers tell you...Please keep in mind that the dealers and manufacturing are in business to make money...um...after warranty...The 2-3 split issue is probily permanent damage and can only be corrected by an overhaul, but as long as it is functioning at a level you can handle, I would run it till it shows other symptoms...And I stress...DO NOT RUN IT TILL IT DROPS!!!LOL I have seen this alot....not pretty...or cheap! I will be home for the rest of the week, so if anyone needs any more info, feel free to post.
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Your correct sir, and thank you so much for getting back to me ( although after the deed has been done ).
I changed the solenoid with relative ease as I installed a drain pan plug the last time I was in there.
The old solenoid ohmed at 4.6 and so did the new one and the screen looked clear, this is prolly why it made only marginal improvements.
It is funny after I changed the the blown out valve body gasket it worked good for about 25 miles, then after doing the solenoid same thing . I think wow it's fixed then it slowly gets longer and longer the slipping 2-3rd gear. Till it's back to I have to take my foot of the gas just long enough to get a shift,then it is into overdrive. It really likes being in overdrive.
So yea my guess is at 150k mi these ford trans missions are kinda pathetic.
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11-08-2010, 05:54 PM
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Ford Tough
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 288
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Re: shift correction kit questions??
Something that hasn't been mentioned at all in this thread is too tighten up the bands. Most of the time this is the cause of the 2-3 shift flair.
__________________
1996 Ford Ranger STX 4x4 4.0L
1983 Honda Shadow VT750C
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11-09-2010, 09:39 AM
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Here, hold my beer
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 44
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Re: shift correction kit questions??
Excellent, It just seemed as though the procedure for that was a bit sketchy as far as the torque wrench and all, is there more of a simple rule of thumb, like loosen the jam nut while holding the adjusting bolt, then turn the bolt in 1 turn kinda thing ? Also they say once disturbed the gaskets will be ruined is this true or can I clean the area well with brake clean 1st and get by without new ones.
Thanx for your info, Scot
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11-10-2010, 04:06 PM
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Here, hold my beer
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 44
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Re: shift correction kit questions??
Is this the correct procedure then ?
Band Adjustments
NOTE:
Procedures are the same for O/D and intermediate band adjustments.
1. CAUTION: Do not allow adjustment screw to back out. Band strut could fall in transmission assembly.
CAUTION: Throw the locknuts away. The locknuts are not reusable for assembly.
Remove the overdrive and intermediate band locknuts and back off the band adjusting screws.
2. CAUTION: Install, but do not tighten, a new locknut on the band adjusting stop. Apply petroleum jelly to the locknut seal.
CAUTION: Servos must be installed prior to band adjustment.
Tighten the band adjusting stop using Band Adjustment Torque Wrench Set T71P-77370-A. The wrench will click at 14 N-m (10 lb-ft). Back off the band adjusting stop exactly two turns and hold that position. Tighten the locknut to 47-61 N-m (35-45 lb-ft) using a 19mm wrench.
Always use two new lock nuts as they have a built in seal to the case of the trans.
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11-10-2010, 04:17 PM
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Ford Tough
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 412
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Re: shift correction kit questions??
@Lonecarr...I figured I would update you since you were trying to help me out. I fixed my problem, I can turn overdrive off now and my shifts are so smooth I can hardly notice them. I discovered when I was tracing why I didn't have reverse lights that the fuse was missing and that was also an electronic shift control fuse.
__________________
'94 Single Cab 4cyl 5spd
Still in the parts collecting stage for a 2.3t swap
Old:
1999 F150 ext cab 4.6 4x4--Totalled
1995 F250 ext cab long bed 7.3 4x4--Sold
1999 Ranger ext cab 3.0 2wd--Sold
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11-10-2010, 04:56 PM
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Rangerooter!
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 117
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Re: shift correction kit questions??
that's great....I am glad it was such a little fix...
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Scot, that is the correct procedure for the band adjustments. I follow a similar pattern, but without the torquewrench. I screw the bolt in carefully till it bottoms out (not cranking on it) then back it out the 2 turns then crank it down snug. You do wanna replace the jam nut as they will leak if you don't.
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11-13-2010, 06:26 PM
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Here, hold my beer
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 44
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Re: shift correction kit questions??
Quote:
Originally Posted by West
Something that hasn't been mentioned at all in this thread is too tighten up the bands. Most of the time this is the cause of the 2-3 shift flair.
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We have a winner
caveat here is it is about 80 % better, can I tighten them a bit ? Another words you turn them out two full turns according to spec, but what if I just turned them out 1-1/2 turns ? Any one ever done this ?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonncarr
that's great....I am glad it was such a little fix...
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Scot, that is the correct procedure for the band adjustments. I follow a similar pattern, but without the torquewrench. I screw the bolt in carefully till it bottoms out (not cranking on it) then back it out the 2 turns then crank it down snug. You do wanna replace the jam nut as they will leak if you don't.
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Aw man,, I didn't notice this had a reply in it to me also Sorry, guess I will get the jam nuts and try this new way, kinda sounds like it might really do the trick better as the adjusting bolts with the procedural method seem to get backed out just a bit to much.
You guys are great around here ! Sure glad I found this place.
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11-19-2010, 09:36 AM
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Here, hold my beer
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 44
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Re: shift correction kit questions??
Been working great since I followed your advice lonncarr.
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Each day on the right side of the grass is a good one.
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11-19-2010, 07:30 PM
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Rangerooter!
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 117
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Re: shift correction kit questions??
Awesome.....ever need me I am right here.
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