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01-06-2013, 07:55 PM
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Learning to use the forums
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Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 11
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Clutch Replacement
I drove my truck home to Northern Michigan from Maryland. It was a big temperature shift. About 60ish degrees to around 16ish. While spending time at home my clutch pedal went soft and the transmission wouldn't shift. I determined I had air in the lines and bleed the master cylinder using this method.
It seemed sketchy to me at first but it worked. I believe my slave cylinder has a small leak so I have been keeping an eye on the fluid level.
I want to replace the slave cylinder before the leak gets worse and I also heard that leaks like this can cause the clutch to go bad. I was wondering if this is a severe problem that should be fixed or just a small annoyance.
Also if I do replace the slave cylinder I might as well replace the clutch.
Is replacing the clutch and slave cylinder and all it entails (dropping the transmission) a job that I could conceivably do myself with the proper tools or is it something that I should have a professional do?
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2007 Ranger super cab Red 4x4 stick
4.0
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01-06-2013, 08:43 PM
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Tank Diver
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 3,129
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Re: Clutch Replacement
I wouldn't go too long since the slave could suddenly just let go all together.
You can do the job yourself but I wouldn't do it without a transmission jack. Yes, the transmission needs to be dropped.
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Sgtsandman's Work in Progress
2011 Ranger XLT, 4X4, 4 door Super Cab. 4.0L, 5 Speed M50D-R1HD, 3.73:1, 8.8" open differential, Jason Pace cap
2019 Ford Ranger STX FX4, Super Crew, 2.3L Ecoboost, 10 speed automatic, 3.73:1 with rear locker, Leer 100XR cap
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01-06-2013, 09:49 PM
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Learning to use the forums
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Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 11
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Re: Clutch Replacement
How complicated is replacing the clutch after you have the transmission dropped?
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2007 Ranger super cab Red 4x4 stick
4.0
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01-06-2013, 11:45 PM
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Ford Truck Driver
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 79
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Not bad. Just some bolts. Check out YouTube for some videos.
Sent from my SGH-T769 using FRF App
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1996 Ford Ranger
Ext Cab XLT
2.3 L SOHC
145,000 miles
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01-07-2013, 09:37 PM
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Tank Diver
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 3,129
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Re: Clutch Replacement
The only part that might be a challenge is removing the old pilot bearing in the crank so you can put the new one in. When I did mine, I had to install a new-to-me engine. The engine was out of an automatic, so I didn't have to remove the pilot bearing.
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Sgtsandman's Work in Progress
2011 Ranger XLT, 4X4, 4 door Super Cab. 4.0L, 5 Speed M50D-R1HD, 3.73:1, 8.8" open differential, Jason Pace cap
2019 Ford Ranger STX FX4, Super Crew, 2.3L Ecoboost, 10 speed automatic, 3.73:1 with rear locker, Leer 100XR cap
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01-08-2013, 03:36 AM
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Ford Motor Co
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 150
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I've put 2 clutches in mine (coming up on a quarter million miles...lol) and just recently dropped the trans to replace the oil pan gasket. It's a doable job just have the right tools (might need an impact to get some of the bolts loose) and just take your time if its your first time doing it. Once the trans is dropped the clutch only takes ten mins tops. I would recommend having your flywheel resurfaced to give your new clutch the best wear pattern. As for the pilot bearing I've always had the best luck using a slide hammer. I've heard some horror stories of trashing the bearing and not being able to get it all out when using some other methods but I've never had a problem, just use a socket to tap the new bearing in but pay attention to put the bearing in facing the correct direction. I use an atv/motorcycle jack and a ratchet strap for the transmission, but having a buddy there to help you "stab" it back is really helpful. Take your time try not to get frustrated and use caution when disconnecting the slave hydro line, some manuals will tell you to use a special too but you can use two flat screwdrivers cautiously to do the same thing. Another time and mess saving tip is that you can fill your transmission back up from the top before you put the shifter back in. This is a lot easier than dealing with crazy tube funnels or suction guns. Just be sure not to overfill.
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2001 Ford Ranger (Obviously), 3.0 Edge, 2wd, Single Cab, Manual Trans, Explorer Axle Swap 4.10 gears, Rear Disc Brakes, Air Lift Helper Air Bags, 31" BFG's, Corbeau Seats, Custom Console, Console Vault,Yakima Rack, Dual Hella's mounted behind the grille, aux. reverse lights, Trailer Brake Controler and lots of TLC 250,000 miles and still ticking. Contemplating 4bt Swap when the tired 3.0 finally gives up.
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01-08-2013, 04:56 AM
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Learning to use the forums
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Join Date: May 2012
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Re: Clutch Replacement
Thanks for the info. Any suggestions on a clutch kit to buy? there seems to be a big price spread out there, is that due to quality? Or do I need a certain one because my truck is a 4x4?
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2007 Ranger super cab Red 4x4 stick
4.0
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01-08-2013, 02:33 PM
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Ford Motor Co
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Join Date: Jul 2012
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Go with OEM if you aren't off reading or towing a ton. I go with Luk clutches from napa Luk makes the clutch that is in your truck right now the first clutch I did I went through Ford, learn from my mistake Luk is stamped right on the pressure plate coming from ford. Go with napa, exact same clutch but about 200 dollars cheaper. The kit comes with everything you need including the alignment tool.
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2001 Ford Ranger (Obviously), 3.0 Edge, 2wd, Single Cab, Manual Trans, Explorer Axle Swap 4.10 gears, Rear Disc Brakes, Air Lift Helper Air Bags, 31" BFG's, Corbeau Seats, Custom Console, Console Vault,Yakima Rack, Dual Hella's mounted behind the grille, aux. reverse lights, Trailer Brake Controler and lots of TLC 250,000 miles and still ticking. Contemplating 4bt Swap when the tired 3.0 finally gives up.
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01-28-2013, 11:18 PM
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Ford Ranger Owner
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 51
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Re: Clutch Replacement
Quote:
Originally Posted by foutd77
I've put 2 clutches in mine (coming up on a quarter million miles...lol) and just recently dropped the trans to replace the oil pan gasket. It's a doable job just have the right tools (might need an impact to get some of the bolts loose) and just take your time if its your first time doing it. Once the trans is dropped the clutch only takes ten mins tops. I would recommend having your flywheel resurfaced to give your new clutch the best wear pattern. As for the pilot bearing I've always had the best luck using a slide hammer. I've heard some horror stories of trashing the bearing and not being able to get it all out when using some other methods but I've never had a problem, just use a socket to tap the new bearing in but pay attention to put the bearing in facing the correct direction. I use an atv/motorcycle jack and a ratchet strap for the transmission, but having a buddy there to help you "stab" it back is really helpful. Take your time try not to get frustrated and use caution when disconnecting the slave hydro line, some manuals will tell you to use a special too but you can use two flat screwdrivers cautiously to do the same thing. Another time and mess saving tip is that you can fill your transmission back up from the top before you put the shifter back in. This is a lot easier than dealing with crazy tube funnels or suction guns. Just be sure not to overfill.
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How do u gage how much and when to stop adding fluid when doing it from the shifter spot?
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01-29-2013, 12:01 AM
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Ford Ranger Driver
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 6,724
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrazyJake
Thanks for the info. Any suggestions on a clutch kit to buy? there seems to be a big price spread out there, is that due to quality? Or do I need a certain one because my truck is a 4x4?
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Don't go with Luk...get a SACHS at O'Reily. The Sachs has a lifetime warranty, luk does not.
$230 for SACHS
I'm replacing mine as soon as uncle sam sends me some money. I looked all around and this was the best option and good price
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01-30-2013, 01:02 AM
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Ford Motor Co
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 91FR91XLT
How do u gage how much and when to stop adding fluid when doing it from the shifter spot?
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Pull the check plug and have another set of eyes tell you when it starts to dribble out.....way easier than the awkward angle you deal with otherwise
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AmericanPride!
Don't go with Luk...get a SACHS at O'Reily. The Sachs has a lifetime warranty, luk does not.
$230 for SACHS
I'm replacing mine as soon as uncle sam sends me some money. I looked all around and this was the best option and good price
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Just make sure you look at that poster in the store that shows all the reasons the clutch won't be covered by warranty so you know what you're in for if it breaks on you. The "possibility of incorrect installation" clause can be a kicker. But I have heard some good things about their clutches. I was just saying if you want to go directly OEM for 250 bucks less than ford you can put the very same " ford" clutch in with a Luk.
__________________
2001 Ford Ranger (Obviously), 3.0 Edge, 2wd, Single Cab, Manual Trans, Explorer Axle Swap 4.10 gears, Rear Disc Brakes, Air Lift Helper Air Bags, 31" BFG's, Corbeau Seats, Custom Console, Console Vault,Yakima Rack, Dual Hella's mounted behind the grille, aux. reverse lights, Trailer Brake Controler and lots of TLC 250,000 miles and still ticking. Contemplating 4bt Swap when the tired 3.0 finally gives up.
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01-30-2013, 01:33 AM
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Ford Ranger Driver
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 6,724
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Quote:
Originally Posted by foutd77
Pull the check plug and have another set of eyes tell you when it starts to dribble out.....way easier than the awkward angle you deal with otherwise
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Just make sure you look at that poster in the store that shows all the reasons the clutch won't be covered by warranty so you know what you're in for if it breaks on you. The "possibility of incorrect installation" clause can be a kicker. But I have heard some good things about their clutches. I was just saying if you want to go directly OEM for 250 bucks less than ford you can put the very same " ford" clutch in with a Luk.
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That's why I'm paying $350 in labor. Lol. That's not just for a clutch either...the works
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01-30-2013, 08:07 AM
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Ford Motor Co
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 150
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Yeah 350 is what I paid for new slave,clutch,flywheel, and master clutch assembly. But I did it myself so I went with direct OEM.
__________________
2001 Ford Ranger (Obviously), 3.0 Edge, 2wd, Single Cab, Manual Trans, Explorer Axle Swap 4.10 gears, Rear Disc Brakes, Air Lift Helper Air Bags, 31" BFG's, Corbeau Seats, Custom Console, Console Vault,Yakima Rack, Dual Hella's mounted behind the grille, aux. reverse lights, Trailer Brake Controler and lots of TLC 250,000 miles and still ticking. Contemplating 4bt Swap when the tired 3.0 finally gives up.
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01-30-2013, 09:22 AM
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Ford's Rule!
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 947
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Re: Clutch Replacement
If I'm not mistaken, there are auto parts stores that can loan you the proper tool for removing the pilot bushing.
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94 3.0L 5 spd 4x4 Ranger XLTSOLD
2004 Mustang Cobra Convertible 453/471 2013 1.6 Tuxedo Black Ford Escape
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01-30-2013, 10:45 AM
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Ford Motor Co
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94AubergineXLT
If I'm not mistaken, there are auto parts stores that can loan you the proper tool for removing the pilot bushing.
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Yep that's what I did, I used a loaned slide hammer to get the bearing out, trashes the bearing but who cares if its being replaced. Just used a socket to press the new one in. Just be sure it goes in the right way.
__________________
2001 Ford Ranger (Obviously), 3.0 Edge, 2wd, Single Cab, Manual Trans, Explorer Axle Swap 4.10 gears, Rear Disc Brakes, Air Lift Helper Air Bags, 31" BFG's, Corbeau Seats, Custom Console, Console Vault,Yakima Rack, Dual Hella's mounted behind the grille, aux. reverse lights, Trailer Brake Controler and lots of TLC 250,000 miles and still ticking. Contemplating 4bt Swap when the tired 3.0 finally gives up.
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