I was changing the fluid and cleaning my rear diff when I went to fill it back up the fill plug was rusted on and stripped. Now I can't fill my diff. What the hell am I supposed to do? This truck has been nothing but problems since I got it.

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2003 Ranger XLT FX4 4.0 A/T with flared wheel wells. It's a beast!!! lol

Most diffs have a vent tube, what I did for the same problem was I pulled the vent tube off and made sure it was clean then just filled the diff from there. I haven't had any problems come up yet so I assume it's ok to do.

Use an eezee out with the rusted plug drill into the plug use the eezee out clean the hole and add a new plug. Did it once on a Toyota and it worked.

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http://www.threadbombing.com/details.php?image_id=1688

yea always make sure you can get the fill plug out first, mine was super rusty too. i used a impact socket reducer (1/2" to 3/8) since its little more acurate and a 1/2" rachet to get it off. i sprayed it with PB blaster/Kroil too. its so stupid how shallow the plug is, i was close to stripping mine

you might be able to pound a reducer on depending on how stripped it is but the best bet would be to do what Magnus said

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'99 Ranger XLT Reg. Cab Stepside
2.5L
2WD
5spd
K&N Filter
Air Box Mod
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2/3 Drop
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try to use a pair of vise grips just make shure they are tight use a pair of channel locks to close them completely. then just tap it with a hammer and put a new plug in just grease the plug when you do this worked for me on a older model ford truck i had..

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95 3.0 5 speed..2007 ram 3500 dually 6 speed..2006 ram srt10 6 speed..mustang gt 5 speed

Yah , the plug was boogered on the 94 when I went to check it. I learned this trick from Allen heads. Take a ball peen hammer and hit the plug dead on, until the 3/8 drive has to be pounded into the plug. The hammer moves the metal into the hole . Driving the extension into the hole puts the metal back where it belongs. The hammer blows also loosen the plug a bit. I'm glad I took the time, both diffs were low. The diffs are open so, so I topped off them off with 80w90. I used 2 qts for both of them. so they were worth checking. I am 1 for 3 with EZ outs. On top of having a stuck bolt to deal with, now you have a sheared EZ out . They are no fun.

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"94 extended cab.4x4/ V6 pushrod 4.0? /5spd/ 600$ .rat. just bought 6/19/11 I'm a noob , teach me the true path to Ranger gooodness O wise ones.

The last resort would be, if you have a welder, weld a 3/8 bolt to the plug, then remove the plug and replace it. As mentioned already, always remove the fill plug on transmissions and axles before draining them, in order avoid the situation you are currently in.

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2010 Ranger XL 2.3L 5 Spd 3.73:1 Bone Stock
2013 Scion FR-S 2.0L/H-4, 6spd, 4.11:1 Fast Enough Stock

You can fill through the vent tube. Just make sure you find out exactly how much gear oil (and friction modifier, if necessary) your rear end requires. Not all 8.8" rear ends need the same quantity, so check your owners manual.

It's okay to put in a little bit more than necessary (about 4 ounces or so), but you don't want put much more than that. A little to much is definately better than too little.

For next time get yourself an after market differential cover with fill and drain plugs in it, and avoid using the stock, PITA plug all together.

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2011 Ranger XLT 2WD - Dark Shadow Gray Metallic -- SOLD
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2016 Ford Explorer - Shadow Black
2010 MINI Cooper - "Der Krautenküper"
1993 Special Service Package Mustang - The Five-O's 5-0.

Find a new diff cover and this time use some wheel grease on the threads and the outside so that the threads can't get any water to them.. if you dont wanna use grease just use some RTV and cake it around the outside to protect the plug

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2011 Ranger XL Extended cab, 2x4, 2.3 L Duratec, Automatic, Mis-colored Leer camper shell, Ultragauge, LED plate bulbs, DDM "cree" reverse lights. Staying as stock as possible

Yeah right after I posted that I went to the mechanic that was right up the street. He said he could do it so I drove my truck with no diff fluid like a block and the dude popped it out in like 2 seconds. And yes I should have checked the plug first. But it was my first time doing it and since I used royal purp synth I'll never have to do it on that truck again. but thanks everyone for the help. I'll post later on how well the Royal Purp works in my rear diff. I drove it around the block right after the whole process was done and I'd have to say I felt an immediate difference but I'll go into more detail as I drive it more.

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2003 Ranger XLT FX4 4.0 A/T with flared wheel wells. It's a beast!!! lol

Tell us what he did to get out that quickly.

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George

2011 Ranger Sport 4 door SuperCab 4X4 Oxford White, 4.0 Auto Mods: XLT Carpet, Pin Stripes, Clear Corners, Extang Revolution Tonno, LineX, Pre Key mod, tailgate lightbar, cab lights, Muth heated signal mirrors
2008 Ranger Reg Cab 4X2 Redfire Vulcan Auto Mods:FX4 body color grille, Sport aluminum wheels, Extang Revolutioin Tonno, color matched bed liner, tailgate lightbar TRADED