Does anyone know where I can get a detailed walk through for a clutch install? Specifically a 2000 ranger with 4 cylinder engine. Any help, points, tips, or any feed back would be appreciated.

It is pretty simple to do.

Remove transmission

You need to remove the bolts for the pressure plate and clutch disc evenly so you dont damage the diaphragm spring


If any of the parts are gonna be reused. index-mark the clutch pressure plate to the flywheel.

Align the clutch disc and the clutch pressure plate. Install the bolts and tighten in a star pattern 24 ft. lbs.

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ive done it several times in the last year replacing clutch and several slave cylinders and getting my transmission rebuilt. mark the driveshafts where they are at also. if you have a transfer case and your doing the work by yourself then separate it from the transmission itll help you out alot

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Mud holes are like a pretty woman with an std, you want to hit but are scared of the consequences!

4wd is like a condom. i'd rather have it and not need it rather tan needing it and not having it!

I would pick up a Chiltons manual and use that, it will give you a pretty good idea of what to do

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1999 Ford Explorer XLT, 4x4, 4.0 SOHC, 31x10.5r15 duratracs, tinted tails, Warrior Shackles/AAL/TT, Curt roof basket Car Domain
SOLD: 1997 Ford Ranger XLT, 4x4, ext cab, 4.0L V6, 5 spd, 31x10.5R15 BFG T/A KO's, MB Chaos 5 rims, 3" PA Body Lift, Project log: My '97 Ranger 4x4

Thanks guys. That diagram really helps. Where can I get a chiltons manual? Also I will be replacing the slave, and master cylinder as well since I heard that it's easier/better to do it now than later on if it fails. Is there anything else I should look at or for?

check your fly wheel really well and make sure it doesnt need resurfaced.... if not take some sand paper say 220G and knock the glaze off of it....

anytime you replace the clutch you want to get the flywheel resurfaced so it doesn't grove your new clutch

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Mud holes are like a pretty woman with an std, you want to hit but are scared of the consequences!

4wd is like a condom. i'd rather have it and not need it rather tan needing it and not having it!

Im going to be attempting to replace my clutch, my question is what about the rear main seal? I've heard it both ways that if its not leaking dont replace it and I've also heard that you must replace it or you'll blow your motor... what should I do? Now I have also heard that you should replace the slave and master cylinders, is this correct? If so, where do I get those parts from? Thanks!

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White '99 Ranger 4x4, 3.0, 5 spd. Torsion bar lift, 32x11.50 BFG All Terrains on Ion Alloy 15x8 rims, Custom Magnaflow turnout exhaust, K&N drop-in air filter, Cobra Super 19 mini CB, Sony Audio system and custom white dash trim, Air horns, throttle cable mod, airbox mod, manual hubs mod, 200k miles & PAID FOR
Rangers > Jeeps!

rear main is a tuff one. Its worth it to replace it while the trans is out. But, if it looks lik enew and there is ZERO oil leaking around it, you might consider leaving it. Its not like the old motors that had rope seals!

Slave is a 100% must change. They can not be trusted. Mine went 262k miles and was still good when I replaced it, but why not? the trans is already out and you would kick yourself in the ass if you changed the clutch but not the slave, then it failed :eeK:

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Ok, I'll check out the rear main when I get in there, in the meantime, where can I get the slave cylinder from?

Thanks!

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White '99 Ranger 4x4, 3.0, 5 spd. Torsion bar lift, 32x11.50 BFG All Terrains on Ion Alloy 15x8 rims, Custom Magnaflow turnout exhaust, K&N drop-in air filter, Cobra Super 19 mini CB, Sony Audio system and custom white dash trim, Air horns, throttle cable mod, airbox mod, manual hubs mod, 200k miles & PAID FOR
Rangers > Jeeps!

here is a link with a picture tutorial http://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gall...160484&width=0

here is a write up on did on my first clutch job.


Clutch replacement 2wd

tools
besides the obvious collection of ratchets wrenches etc here are a few specific ones that I remember. 12mm 12point socket for drive shaft removal, 13mm 6 point engine to tranny bolts, 10mm socket for PP, pilot bearing tool, torx 30, creeper, transmission jack( if possible see if you can get one that is more like a basket. I had a flat one and the tranny is anything but flat.....next time I think I might try and make wooden jig that I would secure to the jack and help support the tranny)


you need to Jack the truck up. I saw one post where the guy used 4 cinder blocks and then put a piece of 2x8 over most of the block he then took a short piece of 2x4 and stuck it in the hole sticking out his tire pressed up against it. he did it for all 4 tires and the 2x4 keeps the truck from moving. The wheels end up about 10” off the ground. a good workable height. A mistake I made was I only put the front of the truck on car ramps. I had the ramps on a nice hard flat service but where I was working on the tranny was gravelly and I could not use a creeper and with the rear wheels on the ground it was hard to work.This is the only area I had to work with but it made the project way to difficult. Jack the whole truck up on a nice flat service and get a creeper.

Disconnect Battery

-Disconnect shif lever(shifter) , ther is a bolt with one nut on it. remove the bolt and replace it onto the other side of the bolt. tighten the nut and the bolt will pop out. itis a funky wedge typpe thing. the top knob is held on by pressure it is a pain to take off . you should be able to leave it on and just remove the shift lever and boot as one unit.remove the 3 torx (t30)screws holding the stub into the tranny. the stub might need a little force to pop out. Plug the hole with a rag. removing the stub makes the removal and especially the installation of the tranny easier

-drain fluid

-remove drivesahft(mark where the driveshaft bolts to the differential and where it goes into the tranny. it needs to go back in the same spot to keep it balanced

-disconnect slave cylinder coupling.( see video)

-remove starter

-disconnect backup light connection and wires from tranny

-start removing tranny to engine bolts. I left the bottom 2 in until the final removal. there are 8 bolts all together. before I did my job I read all about how tough some of the bolts where and how they use extensions and dropped the tail end of the tranny down first(this is not a bad idea) to access the 2 top bolts.........however, for me all I used was a ⅜ ratchet and a 6 point 13mm socket and I was able to reach 7 bolts. it took some time to remove them but not a huge problem. the 8th bolt above the starter on the passenger side I use a ¼” ratchet.

-I did not have to remove my exhaust if youhave a V6 I think you need to

-remove crossmember and tranny mount. Place tranny jack under tranny, remove remaining bolts and slide the tranny off the engine.....I got stuck here a little because I could not remove the tranny. I thought I missed a bolt. All it was was the nubs where stuck good. I eventually pried it off. This slowed me down a little. Next time I will just pry it right off knowing I had all the bolts removed

-remove PP bolts. loosen each bolt a little at a time. I put the clutch alignment tool in as i took it off. Replace pilot bearing. Replacing pilot bearing can be a pain. they sell a tool fo rit and I would recommend it. clean flywheel with acetone or lacquer thinner.

-install new clutch and PP I tightened mine to 20lbs. tighten each bolt a little at a time.

-installing the tranny is what slowed me down a lot. I was by myself and I had the not so perfect tranny jack. I would not do this again. you need someone to help you put it back in. I had read a few threads about a guy that uses thread rods or bolts. he puts them in the engine bolt holes and uses then as a guide to slide the tranny in I WOULD DEFINITELY TRY THIS . FIGURE OUT WHAT SIZE AND LENGTH BOLT/ROD TO GET.

-Reinstall everything. the slave I got came with a new o-ring and plastic piece. I installed that on the line and popped the line right into the new slave

The only help I had from another Human was I had my wife come out and pour Dot 3 into the clutch reservoir for me. she said she said she let it go down about half way and filled it about 10 times. I loosened the bleeder screw and just let it gravity bleed, exactly how they show in the video. after I thought it was all clean and no air in the line I tighten the bleeder. I never touched the pedal. the fluid bleeds slowly and it might have taken 5 or 10 minutes.


I am sure I missed a few things. Do some searches and look for other threads. it is a doable job for an average backyard-er. but i urge you to stick with the few things I emphasised ...

To answer your question you originally asked me......I say I took about 7 or 8 hours to do the job I did over Thanksgiving weekend.............if I were to do it again I would absolutely get someone to help me at least in removing and installing the tranny and I would do it with the whole truck jacked up on flat ground with a creeper........I bet I could do it in 3 or 4 hours then..........good

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LUK is the recommended replacement brand. Pepboys sells them for about $260. that includes the PP, disc, slave and PB. I was feeling cheap at the time so I bought the Perfection brand from Advanced with the online discount I got everything for $160. the PP was a LUK.

here is a video for that showing how to disconnect the coupling and how to bleed it

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2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).

ok thanks! I made a step by step based on the videos I've seen and the posts/articles Ive read.

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White '99 Ranger 4x4, 3.0, 5 spd. Torsion bar lift, 32x11.50 BFG All Terrains on Ion Alloy 15x8 rims, Custom Magnaflow turnout exhaust, K&N drop-in air filter, Cobra Super 19 mini CB, Sony Audio system and custom white dash trim, Air horns, throttle cable mod, airbox mod, manual hubs mod, 200k miles & PAID FOR
Rangers > Jeeps!

Should i go ahead and buy a new fly wheel vs. resurfacing it?

You shouldn't have to pay more than $40 to resurface. That's the way I go unless I'm totally pressed for time and need to reassemble asap. If you shop, around a new flywheel runs about $100.

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2000 XLT 4WD 4.0L OHV, 5 spd, Alabama Cylinder heads, Delta Cams Valve Train and Pushrods, JBA Headers, KKM Cone Air Cleaner, BBK Throttle body, Dynomax Cat-Back exhaust, Summit Racing drilled front rotors w/ EBC pads, Cobra rear disk brake conversion w/ Hawk pads, 8.8" 4.10 Traction-Lok

So, my buddy and I managed to get everything swapped out on my Ranger. Everything was lined up and started to go back together, but once we were about half an inch away from the motor, something started leaking clutch fluid. Does anyone know what is leaking and possibly why?

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1993 Ford Ranger
Two Door XLT
4x4 4.0 Five Speed