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  #1  
Old 10-22-2009, 08:41 PM
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Default Adjusting E Brake

My emergency brake (pedal) is loose some what so the brake light come on. Right now the pedal is held up with a couple rubber bands so the light doesn't come on.

I park on flat surfaces mostly so I just keep it in gear.

Is there a way to adjust the line or is my brake line stretched and I need to replace it?
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  #2  
Old 10-23-2009, 12:01 AM
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Kind of confused by what you typed out... pedal is loose when pushing it down, yet it also doesn't stay up so it's held up by rubber bands?

The parking brake system is non-adjustable/self adjustable. I forget what the proper term is, but there's no way to tighten it by turning a screw or knob. Only way to fix is replacing the cam at the pedal and that section of cable. Cause: stretched cable.

Your pedal wanting to not stay up when released would be the spring in the parking brake pedal mechanism.



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  #3  
Old 10-23-2009, 06:18 AM
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OKay, thanks.

Basically it will stay down when pushed, although it could be tighter.

When released it comes up, but not far enough to have the E brake light on the dash go off. Lot of play in the pedal.
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  #4  
Old 10-23-2009, 08:24 AM
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My pedal has to be pushed all the way down in order to engage.... has anyone heard that in order to adjunt it you have to drive in reverse, and slam in the brakes so it gets "aligned" ???
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  #5  
Old 10-23-2009, 08:25 AM
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When you say "it could be tighter", do you mean it doesn't pull the brakes tight enough and the truck can roll? If so, see above what Shane wrote. The pedal not coming back up far enough is the spring on the pedal.

The reversing and slamming on the brakes will run the slack adjusters. This effects normal service brake performance. The automatic adjusters make up for brake shoe wear. Won't really have any effect on the parking brake.
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Last edited by FireRanger; 10-23-2009 at 08:27 AM.
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  #6  
Old 10-23-2009, 07:56 PM
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Well . . . It won't roll, but it could definitely be tighter. The e brake has to be all the way down to have any affect. I'll check the spring. I thought maybe there was a way to tighten the cable kind of like you do on bicycle brakes.
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  #7  
Old 10-24-2009, 06:59 AM
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Look under the truck in the vicinity of the drivers door. You will see the e-brake cable running along the frame. See if there is an adjustment thing on it. My old '84 had one but I don't know if they still used them in '92.
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  #8  
Old 12-26-2009, 10:56 AM
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[IMG][/IMG]



The brake line seems pretty slackesh. How do I adjust it?
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  #9  
Old 12-26-2009, 11:13 AM
diMwit
 
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Default Procedure for taking the slack up

This is the manuals procedure for tightening your e-brake.
NOTE: This procedure is to be used to remove the slack from the system if a new Tension Limiter has not been installed.


Make sure the brake drums are cold for correct adjustment.
Position the parking brake pedal to the fully depressed position.
Grip the threaded rod to prevent it from spinning and tighten the equalizer nut 6 full turns past its original position on the threaded rod.
Attach an appropriate cable tension gauge (Rotunda Model 21-0018 or equivalent) behind the equalizer assembly either toward the right or left rear drum assembly and measure cable tension. Cable tension should be 400600 lbs. with the parking brake pedal fully in the last detent position. If tension is low, repeat Steps 2 and 3.
Release parking brake and check for rear wheel drag. The cables should be tight enough to provide full application of the rear brake shoes, when the parking brake lever or foot pedal is placed in the fully applied position, yet loose enough to ensure complete release of the brake shoes when the lever is in the released position.
NOTE: The Tension Limiter will reset the parking brake tension any time the system is disconnected provided the distance between the bracket and the cinch strap hook is reduced during adjustment. When the cinch strap contacts the bracket, the system tension will increase significantly and over tensioning may result. If all available adjustment travel has been used, the tension limiter must be replaced. (you don't really need the tension guage, use common sense) Hope this helps you out.
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  #10  
Old 12-26-2009, 02:03 PM
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Thanks, I had trouble getting the next nut to turn, I think I have to vice grip the end to keep it from turn on me. But I thought that's all I have to do. I'll give it a try tomorrow. Darkness is setting in, and visibility is limited in my car port when I vehicle is parked in it. I really need a garage. Anybody care to nominate me for Extreme Makeover Home edition? haha
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  #11  
Old 12-27-2009, 08:53 AM
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Ok, You can adjust the brake tension for the e brake on drums, at least on mine (1994). Here are the steps:
1) Remove the rear tire. (make sure parking brake is not engaged and wedge front tires)
2) You can either leave the drum on at first but if too difficult, remove the drum.
3) On the bottom and back side of the wheel housing is a small slit.
4) Inside that slit is a gear that is adjustable.
5) Take a flat head screw driver and go below it and pull up to expand the shoes out.
6) Do this for both rear tires and it will push the shoes outward, taking up the slack.
7) If this does not work, your shoes may need to be changed.

Check this link to "How Stuff Works" figure 4 adjusting mechanism
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-p...rum-brake1.htm

My 80 year old grandfather taught me this this week, he owned a brake shop in Raleigh for 40 years.
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  #12  
Old 12-27-2009, 09:57 AM
diMwit
 
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The above is a regular brake adjustment. It might be a good idea to check your brakes anyway. The e-brake cable does stretch but you also might have severe brake wear too. This is pretty much the procedure for after pad replacement.
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  #13  
Old 12-27-2009, 12:16 PM
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"Grip the threaded rod to prevent it from spinning and tighten the equalizer nut 6 full turns past its original position on the threaded rod."

I tried this, but the nut is so rusted on the threaded rot I couldn't get it turn even after appying some lubricant. I do think that will help some.
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  #14  
Old 12-27-2009, 12:54 PM
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this happened to my '00 ranger and what my high school auto teacher, who was once a ford master mechanic , did was fabricate a bracket for the brake line to sit on with some tension. this helped very much and till this day 2 years later still works fine
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  #15  
Old 12-27-2009, 09:16 PM
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When I did mine on my '88, I soaked it in penatrateing lube, applied a little heat and used a long wrench and visegrips to persuade it to break loose.
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