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Old 05-13-2011, 04:34 AM
crowdpleazer crowdpleazer is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2010
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Default clutch pedal pressure

ive had my truck for the last 20k miles (120k on the odometer) and just recently the clutch started messing up. well not really, it has never slipped on me at all its the pressure on the pedal. most of the time when i push the pedal down there is almost no pressure on it at all until the last 1/2 inch i feel the clutch disengage and i can shift kinda. if i pump the pedal a few times i get some pressure back and its fine for about 4-5 shifts. the fluid in the resivor has never changed a bit and there are no leaks anywhere. the slave cylinder and master cylinder is completely dry on the outside.

i am going to tear into it this weekend. any suggestions on what to look for? im kinda stumped and cannot find this problem anywhere on this forum.

also i am having the problem where its hard to go into 1st and reverse. i think that it is related to the clutch not disengaging all the way.
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1998 ranger extended cab, 2wd, 4.0 ohv, 5 speed, sony xploid 52 4 way watt radio, 2 pair of pioneer 240 watt speakers, Cobra 29 LX LCD CB radio pushing 100 watts, k&n air filter, 15 inch exploder wheels, dual exhaust with 4 inch stainless tips, 2 12 inch subs with a 1000 watt amp just for the hell of it!

new project: dirt track modified racing at the local saturday night track.
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  #2  
Old 05-13-2011, 08:21 AM
BrianR BrianR is offline
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Default Re: clutch pedal pressure

I had a very similar problem that was the result of air in my hydraulic lines. My clutch would not disengage until a good ways after the pedal was pressed down and I would smell the wonders of burnt clutch after every drive from the disc not disengaging properly. Try bleeding it before anything and see if that can't solve your headaches first!

-- Brian
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Old 05-13-2011, 10:28 AM
zekew64 zekew64 is offline
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Default Re: clutch pedal pressure

Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianR View Post
I had a very similar problem that was the result of air in my hydraulic lines. My clutch would not disengage until a good ways after the pedal was pressed down and I would smell the wonders of burnt clutch after every drive from the disc not disengaging properly. Try bleeding it before anything and see if that can't solve your headaches first!

-- Brian
Brian, definitely right...And, with most slave cylinders being able to be gravity bled, it should be a one-person job.

However, some other info: The fluid in the clutch is probably bad and needs to be changed anyway. Reason is, just like brakes, even if you don't have leaks, the plumbing for the system still heats up and cools down, thus forming condensation (Pauly Shore's "Beer Can Effect"; from the movie Biodome). And over time, the condensation in the line needs to be purged so that the fluid maintains the proper viscosity, thus, proper pressure.

A trick that I use to check my brake fluid (not sure if it would work here) is to take a multimeter, put it on volts DC. Take one probe and put it into the master cylinder reservior, where the fluid is; then take the second and put it on the master cylinder itself. If you get a reading of 0.3 Volts or higher, change out the fluid, there's too much water in the fluid.
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  #4  
Old 05-13-2011, 11:23 AM
crowdpleazer crowdpleazer is offline
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Default Re: clutch pedal pressure

ok thanks guys! i will bleed it as soon as i can and hopefully that will fix it.

zekew64: that is a very interesting way of checking your brake fluid lol. but i am afraid that it wont work on the clutch resivor because it is plastic, unless i can just put both probes into the fluid?

oh and i do not smell burnt clutch at all (not yet at least). thanks again!
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1998 ranger extended cab, 2wd, 4.0 ohv, 5 speed, sony xploid 52 4 way watt radio, 2 pair of pioneer 240 watt speakers, Cobra 29 LX LCD CB radio pushing 100 watts, k&n air filter, 15 inch exploder wheels, dual exhaust with 4 inch stainless tips, 2 12 inch subs with a 1000 watt amp just for the hell of it!

new project: dirt track modified racing at the local saturday night track.
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  #5  
Old 05-16-2011, 04:18 AM
crowdpleazer crowdpleazer is offline
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Default Re: clutch pedal pressure

ok i bled the system and the pedal is much more consistent, but i dont think its 100%. as i push the pedal down, there is about an inch of nothing then i get pressure. it feels just like a mechanical clutch and not like i think a hydraulic clutch should feel. but it shifts fine still so im not too worried.

my plans are to put an entire new clutch, master and slave cylinders in soon. so if i do that i should have the flywheel turned. since i am crunched for time (i can only have my truck down for barely a weekend) i plan to find a used flywheel cheap that needs turned and turn it myself in school then when the clutch goes out i can just swap flywheels.

so does anyone have a prefrence on what clutch to use? id rather not use the cheapest one i can find but i do not need a performance clutch either.

any comments are appreciated! thanks!

ps does anyone have a used flywheel that they are willing to part with?
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1998 ranger extended cab, 2wd, 4.0 ohv, 5 speed, sony xploid 52 4 way watt radio, 2 pair of pioneer 240 watt speakers, Cobra 29 LX LCD CB radio pushing 100 watts, k&n air filter, 15 inch exploder wheels, dual exhaust with 4 inch stainless tips, 2 12 inch subs with a 1000 watt amp just for the hell of it!

new project: dirt track modified racing at the local saturday night track.
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