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  #1  
Old 03-12-2011, 07:19 AM
Ford Ranger Owner
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 56
Default 97 4WD Ball joint/Ujoint replacement

OK...I need some help from the pros...
I have to replace both sides upper/lower ball joints and from what I can see/feel, the axle U-joints need replacing as well. Before I start tearing the thing apart, I want to make sure there aren't other parts (seals, dust covers,etc) that will need to be (or should be) replaced.

Secondly, although 99% of the time, I go with Ford/Motorcraft/OEM parts, does anyone feel comfortable with any brand of AM parts. As of right now, I'm looking at $400.+/- in parts. I can cut that in half going with Moog BJ's and u joints.

Any help/advice or even step-by-step directions or photos would be helpful
Dave
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  #2  
Old 03-12-2011, 08:13 AM
Ban Survivor. (x2)
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 6,767
Default Re: 97 4WD Ball joint/Ujoint replacement

I just did all of this on my 96 plus a clutch. All ball joints, u-joints, inner axle bearings came right around $270 or somewhere around there. I bought parts from autozone. Get the 1 year warranty stuff, they have lube tits. Lifetime do not.

Replacing the u-joint on the stub shaft is the tough part. The front diff has to be dropped. You will need a small grinder and notch the control arm where the alignment bolt is for the diff. This way the bolt can slide up and out. Otherwise, your taking the control arm off.

I would go ahead and replace both axle seals on the front diff if your going to take it out.

If you rent the ball joint tool just know that it is useless. The only useful part is one of the peices can be use to hammer the ball joints in. Do the bottoms before you do the tops. Might as well replace tie-rods also if it needs em, you should get an alignment after and the shop might charge you more if they have to F around with old parts. Make sure you pop the camber bushings out and wire wheel them grease it so it can be turned. Make sure to mark them with paint so you know the alignment shop moved them, most wont do it.

Also should replace the drive shaft u-joints just because it will be out. As I said ^^^ I did all my u-joints, axle shafts and drive shafts. BJ, tie-rods, gear oil and was less than $300.
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1999 | Ext. Cab | 4.0 | 4x4 | 4.10's
Quote:
A Gladiator does not fear death. He embraces it. Caresses it. Fucks it. Each time he enters the arena, he slips his c0ck in the mouth of the beast, and prays to thrust home before the jaws snap shut. - Oenomaus
Ball Joints/Upper A-Arms How To
Replace Door pin/bushing
Repair broken dome light tabs
VIDEO OHC Install
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  #3  
Old 03-12-2011, 08:27 AM
TTB man
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,923
Default Re: 97 4WD Ball joint/Ujoint replacement

How To: Replace 3rd member in TTB D35

There are inner and outer bearings on the rotor. Inner bearing has a seal on it. Pull the spindle off and there's a bearing on the inside of the spindle with a little seal. I would definitely replace any bearing I buy with Timken. I swear by them. As for u-joints, I always go with brute force (non greasable, fully sealed) for strength . As for taking the stub shaft out of the 3rd member, you will have to push out the c-clip for it to slide out. Dont for get to put your rubber boot back on the passenger side axel shaft
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1993 Ford Ranger Ext. Cab | stepside | 4x4 | 4.0L | Lifted | 35" BFG KM2s | MT Classic IIs | Dana 35/Disc 8.8 with 4.56's | Duals | Etc

RIP JASON
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  #4  
Old 03-13-2011, 04:35 AM
Ford Ranger Owner
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 56
Default Re: 97 4WD Ball joint/Ujoint replacement

Thanks guys , to both those who posted and emailed me. The smart/economical way to go, seems to be Am route. Also, although they aren't "bad", Im going to replace all TR's as well. This way, I have everything new. I priced everything up at Autozone and it tops out at a little over $300.00

Also thanks for the tech advice/tips as well

Dave

edit: 300.00 is ALL of the above listed parts>>>>my original 400.00 quote was just BJ's and axles u-joints

Last edited by 98offroad; 03-13-2011 at 04:37 AM.
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  #5  
Old 03-13-2011, 09:10 AM
TTB man
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,923
Default Re: 97 4WD Ball joint/Ujoint replacement

Do NOT go with cheap ball joints. Just My opinion, but I've seen them fail and it's scary. I would get either spicer or moog or OE. Put some money into them and they wont steer you wrong
__________________
1993 Ford Ranger Ext. Cab | stepside | 4x4 | 4.0L | Lifted | 35" BFG KM2s | MT Classic IIs | Dana 35/Disc 8.8 with 4.56's | Duals | Etc

RIP JASON
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  #6  
Old 03-13-2011, 10:10 AM
Ban Survivor. (x2)
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 6,767
Default Re: 97 4WD Ball joint/Ujoint replacement

well ya know, I should have done this. Buy your stuff from auto zone but do it over the course of a week. Just over $20 at a time, this way you get your 1 point. I think its 5 points gets you $20. You could come out of that with $60 on your card!
__________________
1999 | Ext. Cab | 4.0 | 4x4 | 4.10's
Quote:
A Gladiator does not fear death. He embraces it. Caresses it. Fucks it. Each time he enters the arena, he slips his c0ck in the mouth of the beast, and prays to thrust home before the jaws snap shut. - Oenomaus
Ball Joints/Upper A-Arms How To
Replace Door pin/bushing
Repair broken dome light tabs
VIDEO OHC Install
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  #7  
Old 03-14-2011, 01:52 PM
Ford Ranger Owner
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 56
Default Re: 97 4WD Ball joint/Ujoint replacement

WTF?????????????????

Dana 28 or Dana 35.....I was under the impression that ALL 97 model year Ranger 4wd had a Dana 28 and only model year 98's, made in 97 would have Dana 35's

No tag on my front pumpkin, so how can I tell for sure?
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