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  #16  
Old 02-27-2011, 02:45 PM
Clinton Clinton is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2010
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Default Re: Shaking at high speeds and when braking

Glad to hear the problem was solved!
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  #17  
Old 03-03-2011, 10:33 PM
zekew64 zekew64 is offline
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Posts: 211
Default Re: Shaking at high speeds and when braking

Just a quick question: Do you have a rack-and-pinion style steering system, or do you have the older conventional system (bunch of metal rods w/grease points)?

If you have the older style steering system, make sure it's always lubricated...if you let it go, it'll definitely give you problems and wear out quicker. The other thing is, your rotor wouldn't give a shaking like that--it's something to do with your wheel balance and/or suspension components. Your brakes would only act like that when you go to stop, not while it's travelling, unless it was so worn/out of spec that it was already past due to be replaced. And if you feel a pulling, check both sides for either a frozen caliper, or caliper bolts--this would indicate that that part of the system was not braking properly, and producing a pulling.

AxlGry, I got to re-reading your original post. The shaking sounds like the stud didn't tighten down all the way, therefore your wheel wasn't tightened. Because your wheel wasn't tightened, it vibrated and broke the tie-rod end off of the steering knuckle.

As a preventative fix, if you ever have a lug stud break, taking off the lug nut, here's the simple fix (and one a home mechanic can do):

Take the new lug stud and coat the head-end with grease around the striations in the head (this is where the stud actually fastens to the hub). Next, insert the stud into the hole you're putting it in. Before you go to try and tighten it, by hand try to start it into the threading in the hole (this is important). Next, take 4 or 5 washers and put them on the stud, then thread the lug nut on the stud (if you don't have the caps newer studs come with, reverse the lug nut with the flat side against the washers; otherwise, thread the lug nut normally). After you put the lug nut on the stud, against the washers, tighten up the stud as far as it will go (a breaker bar or a 1/2" drive ratchet with handle extension will help here). After tightening up the stud as far as you can get it, loosen and then remove the nut and washers; you can then put your wheel back on with no problems.
__________________
Billie, my "sparkly" blue 1992 Ranger
SPECS: 2.3 I4; Rebuilt motor at 194,263 miles; straightened driveshaft when engine was rebuilt

FIRST MODS: 2" suspension lift and rear disc brake conversion

Last edited by zekew64; 03-04-2011 at 07:34 AM. Reason: Extra information
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  #18  
Old 03-08-2011, 04:00 PM
AlxGry AlxGry is offline
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Posts: 670
Default Re: Shaking at high speeds and when braking

Quote:
Originally Posted by zekew64 View Post
Just a quick question: Do you have a rack-and-pinion style steering system, or do you have the older conventional system (bunch of metal rods w/grease points)?

If you have the older style steering system, make sure it's always lubricated...if you let it go, it'll definitely give you problems and wear out quicker. The other thing is, your rotor wouldn't give a shaking like that--it's something to do with your wheel balance and/or suspension components. Your brakes would only act like that when you go to stop, not while it's travelling, unless it was so worn/out of spec that it was already past due to be replaced. And if you feel a pulling, check both sides for either a frozen caliper, or caliper bolts--this would indicate that that part of the system was not braking properly, and producing a pulling.

AxlGry, I got to re-reading your original post. The shaking sounds like the stud didn't tighten down all the way, therefore your wheel wasn't tightened. Because your wheel wasn't tightened, it vibrated and broke the tie-rod end off of the steering knuckle.

As a preventative fix, if you ever have a lug stud break, taking off the lug nut, here's the simple fix (and one a home mechanic can do):

Take the new lug stud and coat the head-end with grease around the striations in the head (this is where the stud actually fastens to the hub). Next, insert the stud into the hole you're putting it in. Before you go to try and tighten it, by hand try to start it into the threading in the hole (this is important). Next, take 4 or 5 washers and put them on the stud, then thread the lug nut on the stud (if you don't have the caps newer studs come with, reverse the lug nut with the flat side against the washers; otherwise, thread the lug nut normally). After you put the lug nut on the stud, against the washers, tighten up the stud as far as it will go (a breaker bar or a 1/2" drive ratchet with handle extension will help here). After tightening up the stud as far as you can get it, loosen and then remove the nut and washers; you can then put your wheel back on with no problems.
Interesting theory about the loose stud breaking the TRE. I tried to pull it in with washers and an impact wrench but it was just the wrong one. Thought it would be ok. After i got the new one i did the same thing and with some spray she slid in, then replace the TRE and since then no problems....well....at least not suspension wise!
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