Hi Everyone,
I did search the knowledge base here, but could find much sorry if this has already been covered and I missed it.

I need some basic info on changing a throw out bearing and clutch on my 2004 ford ranger 4x4. It has the 4.0L engine.



I am hearing a squak sound when I let off the clutch. This usually happens when taking off from first gear- especially when I am on a hill. From what I understand this sqawk noise is caused by a worn throw out bearing- but please correct me if I am wrong.


This is my daily driver so I have will have to finish this project the same weekend I start so I dont want to run into any suprises.
I am moderately mechanically savy, so I am hopful this is going to be a job that I can tackle.

I am basically looking for any info, wisdom or heads up on what to expect in doing this job.
What tools will I need?
What parts will I need? (besides the clutch plates and throwout bearing
I plan on replacing the clutch plates and throw out bearing..does this also require me replacing master and/or slave cylinder or anyother parts?
How long of a job is this? 3-4 hours? A full day?

Also if anyone has a good step by step guide to doing this it would help a lot.

Thanks in advance..

http://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gall...160484&width=0



Clutch replacement 2wd

tools
besides the obvious collection of ratchets wrenches etc here are a few specific ones that I remember. 12mm 12point socket for drive shaft removal, 13mm 6 point engine to tranny bolts, 10mm socket for PP, pilot bearing tool, torx 30, creeper, transmission jack( if possible see if you can get one that is more like a basket. I had a flat one and the tranny is anything but flat.....next time I think I might try and make wooden jig that I would secure to the jack and help support the tranny)


you need to Jack the truck up. I saw one post where the guy used 4 cinder blocks and then put a piece of 2x8 over most of the block he then took a short piece of 2x4 and stuck it in the hole sticking out his tire pressed up against it. he did it for all 4 tires and the 2x4 keeps the truck from moving. The wheels end up about 10” off the ground. a good workable height. A mistake I made was I only put the front of the truck on car ramps. I had the ramps on a nice hard flat service but where I was working on the tranny was gravelly and I could not use a creeper and with the rear wheels on the ground it was hard to work.This is the only area I had to work with but it made the project way to difficult. Jack the whole truck up on a nice flat service and get a creeper.

Disconnect Battery

-Disconnect shif lever(shifter) , ther is a bolt with one nut on it. remove the bolt and replace it onto the other side of the bolt. tighten the nut and the bolt will pop out. itis a funky wedge typpe thing. the top knob is held on by pressure it is a pain to take off . you should be able to leave it on and just remove the shift lever and boot as one unit.remove the 3 torx (t30)screws holding the stub into the tranny. the stub might need a little force to pop out. Plug the hole with a rag. removing the stub makes the removal and especially the installation of the tranny easier

-drain fluid

-remove drivesahft(mark where the driveshaft bolts to the differential and where it goes into the tranny. it needs to go back in the same spot to keep it balanced

-disconnect slave cylinder coupling.( see video)

-remove starter

-disconnect backup light connection and wires from tranny

-start removing tranny to engine bolts. I left the bottom 2 in until the final removal. there are 8 bolts all together. before I did my job I read all about how tough some of the bolts where and how they use extensions and dropped the tail end of the tranny down first(this is not a bad idea) to access the 2 top bolts.........however, for me all I used was a ⅜ ratchet and a 6 point 13mm socket and I was able to reach 7 bolts. it took some time to remove them but not a huge problem. the 8th bolt above the starter on the passenger side I use a ¼” ratchet.

-I did not have to remove my exhaust if youhave a V6 I think you need to

-remove crossmember and tranny mount. Place tranny jack under tranny, remove remaining bolts and slide the tranny off the engine.....I got stuck here a little because I could not remove the tranny. I thought I missed a bolt. All it was was the nubs where stuck good. I eventually pried it off. This slowed me down a little. Next time I will just pry it right off knowing I had all the bolts removed

-remove PP bolts. loosen each bolt a little at a time. I put the clutch alignment tool in as i took it off. Replace pilot bearing. Replacing pilot bearing can be a pain. they sell a tool fo rit and I would recommend it. clean flywheel with acetone or lacquer thinner.

-install new clutch and PP I tightened mine to 20lbs. tighten each bolt a little at a time.

-installing the tranny is what slowed me down a lot. I was by myself and I had the not so perfect tranny jack. I would not do this again. you need someone to help you put it back in. I had read a few threads about a guy that uses thread rods or bolts. he puts them in the engine bolt holes and uses then as a guide to slide the tranny in I WOULD DEFINITELY TRY THIS . FIGURE OUT WHAT SIZE AND LENGTH BOLT/ROD TO GET.

-Reinstall everything. the slave I got came with a new o-ring and plastic piece. I installed that on the line and popped the line right into the new slave

The only help I had from another Human was I had my wife come out and pour Dot 3 into the clutch reservoir for me. she said she said she let it go down about half way and filled it about 10 times. I loosened the bleeder screw and just let it gravity bleed, exactly how they show in the video. after I thought it was all clean and no air in the line I tighten the bleeder. I never touched the pedal. the fluid bleeds slowly and it might have taken 5 or 10 minutes.


I am sure I missed a few things. Do some searches and look for other threads. it is a doable job for an average backyard-er. but i urge you to stick with the few things I emphasised ...

To answer your question you originally asked me......I say I took at least 8 hours to do the job I did over Thanksgiving weekend.............if I were to do it again I would absolutely get someone to help me at least in removing and installing the tranny and I would do it with the whole truck jacked up on flat ground with a creeper........I bet I could do it in 4 or 5 hours then..........good luck!!!

__________________
2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).

it's a fairly easy job, only things I can say is if you cant get the line released from the slave with the tool (some of them suck/or dnt work) I use 2 flat head pocket screw drivers to push the collar back..
if you replace the master, be sure and bench bleed.. its a must.
if you're not replacing the master, after install the slave will bleed fine/easily
also be sure to change the pilot bearing, and inspect the input shaft for burs
good time to service tranny, drain b4 pulling it out, will be lighter n less messy, clean the drain plug it's magnetic... after install b4 re-installing shifter refill tranny via shifter hole, make it very easy.. 4qts Mercon 5

with out a lift: I found it easier to remove tranny without lifting truck, you can reach everything from laying on you back..
goodluck, Terry

__________________
MY BUILD THREAD
1999 MAZDA 2500SE, 2.5L 4-clanger, 5 speed, Green n slow. Rangers as daily drivers since 1988.
ASE Certified Mechanic, Builder of Show Destroying Protouring and Classic cars..

Thanks alot to both of you..lots of good advise and those videos will certainly help modelageek.
Would it be nesessary to replace the master and slave as well or just the throw out bearing and clutch?
I know dumb question but where exactly is the throw out bearing located?

Thanks agian for all your help.

t/o bearing and slave is one piece unit.
recommend you buy from ford. I dnt trust other makers.. no one want to re-do...

__________________
MY BUILD THREAD
1999 MAZDA 2500SE, 2.5L 4-clanger, 5 speed, Green n slow. Rangers as daily drivers since 1988.
ASE Certified Mechanic, Builder of Show Destroying Protouring and Classic cars..

You do not need to replace the clutch MC. You do want to replace the disc,PP, pilot bearing and slave cylinder. The throwout bearing is part of the slave. The slave is a weak part of the trucks so whenever the tranny is dropped change the slave. As Terry was saying the recomended brand is LUK that is the OEM. Pepboys sells all those parts for about $260

__________________
2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).

good point, choose a LUK or SACH's clutch n pressure plate as well.. spare no expense.

__________________
MY BUILD THREAD
1999 MAZDA 2500SE, 2.5L 4-clanger, 5 speed, Green n slow. Rangers as daily drivers since 1988.
ASE Certified Mechanic, Builder of Show Destroying Protouring and Classic cars..

I just called Pep boys as you guys recommended getting parts from there. They have the Clutch set for 209.99. The guy told me that includes the press. plate, slave/TO bearing, pilot bearing. Does that sound right? seems to good to be true.. autozone, avance ap, etc are all charging 169.00 just for the clutch- not including the slave.
Anyways..I will go pick that stuff up if you guys think that will work..Also it was LUK clutch.
Should I have the fly-wheel machined as well?

A LUK is a LUK, no matter where you get it, my clutch set was $200.00 from mazda dealer.. t/o-slave from ford was $150.. pilot bearing from napa was $7.00

my parts where bought at different locations cause, I made the mistake of not changing all of it at once, a week after clutch install, the slave failed... napa was only local place that had pilot bearing in stock

__________________
MY BUILD THREAD
1999 MAZDA 2500SE, 2.5L 4-clanger, 5 speed, Green n slow. Rangers as daily drivers since 1988.
ASE Certified Mechanic, Builder of Show Destroying Protouring and Classic cars..

Good to hear. I will probably go pick them parts up today thanks to you guys helping. I wont be able to start installing for a couple of weeks+ though.
Thanks again you guys, lots of help.

$209 for a LUK disc, pp, pilot bearing and slave is a steal.it almost sounds like a mistake...

replacing/turning the flywheel is an option. I did not do it on my 1999. if you do do it you should replace the rear main seal $15

__________________
2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).

double check that you are getting the slave with that kit....I think that kit might have the disc, PP, pilot bearing and just the throwout bearing without the slave......the throwout bearing does come out of the salve. most of the time you buy the throwout bearing and slave as a unit.......you do not want to drop the tranny and not replace the slave....

__________________
2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).

http://www.pepboys.com/catalog/partr...ory=4&group=46

Here is the clutch that I found for $209. I called Pepboys and the guy said that it included the slave and throw out bearing. It also has a technical document on the website that has some instructions for the slave so I am hoping that means it is included...but even if I have to buy the slave seperatly..I think this is still a better deal then anywhere else.

That sounds good. I wonder if on your year model the LUK slave comes without the TB and you get the TB from the kit. Make sure you go to my 1st post and find the small link that shows all the pictures of the install

__________________
2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).

the easiest way to bleed these clutches is with a vacuum pump! i've never had an issue with my systems when using a hand pump to bleed them

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1996 GO - 10:1 CR 4.0, P&P 98TM heads, 422 Cam, BBK 66mm TB, FMS 30-lbs Injectors -3.73 & Trac Loc - Caltrac Traction Bars - 5sp swap with hurst shifter - SN95 rear brakes, 12" sport trac front brakes
Suspension - DJM 4/5 - Rear air shocks
Exterior - 5% tint - FR500 18x9 18x10 - clear headlights/fogs - cowl hood - SS mirrors - Undercover