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  #16  
Old 09-17-2009, 04:58 PM
Clem Clem is offline
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I wasn't suggesting you drive to Yakima for a rear, just don't want to see anyone get shafted for a couple hundred bucks.
I wouldn't drive 5 hours for a whole damn rig, 2 hours, yea, I done that. 92 Explorer complete running, drove it home. $400. Now it is a low rider, body is about 1 inch off the ground, and that will soon be history.

Ray
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  #17  
Old 09-18-2009, 10:52 AM
beaujt beaujt is offline
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yeah, i ain't stupid. i have a pretty good idea how much stuff is worth, or if i didn't i learned haha.

i'm hoping that explorer is 2wd?
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93 ranger ext. cab 4.0L auto 6" SJ/custom lift--37" super swamper truxs M/T tires--lock rite locker w/ 4.56 gears up front--warn hubs--exploder 8.8 w/ disc brakes 4.56 gears and detriot locker--one-piece driveline--bushwacker cut-out flares--Bilstein 5150 shocks--2 10" xcite subs w/ 1600W Crunch amp-- tinted windows

waiting for: dual steering stabilizer, put on 3" body lift(in my room), dual shock setup, electric fan, possible SAS with a waggy D44
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  #18  
Old 09-20-2009, 10:12 PM
billyjo21 billyjo21 is offline
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would internals fit in the stock rear end
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  #19  
Old 09-20-2009, 11:17 PM
billyjo21 billyjo21 is offline
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also wondering if a stock stang lsd internals w/3.73 would fit
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  #20  
Old 09-21-2009, 10:27 AM
beaujt beaujt is offline
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ford 8.8 gears are interchangeable with all 8.8 no matter the spline count, but not with 7.5 and vice versa. the posi(l/s) or lockers are not interchangeable, they are specific to spline count and size of the rear end. in other words, an explorer rear (31 spline) locker won't fit into a ranger rear (28 spline).
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93 ranger ext. cab 4.0L auto 6" SJ/custom lift--37" super swamper truxs M/T tires--lock rite locker w/ 4.56 gears up front--warn hubs--exploder 8.8 w/ disc brakes 4.56 gears and detriot locker--one-piece driveline--bushwacker cut-out flares--Bilstein 5150 shocks--2 10" xcite subs w/ 1600W Crunch amp-- tinted windows

waiting for: dual steering stabilizer, put on 3" body lift(in my room), dual shock setup, electric fan, possible SAS with a waggy D44
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  #21  
Old 09-21-2009, 10:55 AM
dixie_boysles dixie_boysles is offline
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i would look for a rearend out of a level II ranger. They are 31 tooth count i believe. Torsen L/S. 8.8....id definitly go with this!
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  #22  
Old 09-21-2009, 06:01 PM
billyjo21 billyjo21 is offline
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ok that help me out a lot
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  #23  
Old 09-21-2009, 10:28 PM
billyjo21 billyjo21 is offline
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i have heared of this level II and have probably seen one but wat exactly is one
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  #24  
Old 09-21-2009, 10:44 PM
Downey Downey is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clem View Post
Remember too, that the shock mounts are located different in an Explorer.
The 92 I have dismantled to put in my B2 are part of the spring mount, (that is not the correct name, but it sandwiches the spring to the perch with 2 U-bolts).
On all other Explorers I have seen up to 97 or so, the shock mounts are on the rear of the diff, while the Ranger/B2 are one on each side of the tube.
I am planning to get a Ranger diff housing and swapping the guts from the Explorer diff into it rather than moving and/or making new mounts.

Ray
well swapping everything over to the ranger housing wont work. im not trying to be rude but there seems to be a lot of wrong info in this thread. the explorer axle is basically an f150 axle just shortened. they have 31 spline axle shafts and bigger bearings and axle shafts. they also have disc brakes from 95 plus i think. they are also and inch and a half wider. so they are 3/4 inch wider on each side not much is noticed. if the axle has a l/s it is a clutch style not a torsion that is gear driven. these l/s can and will wear out. but can be rebuilt.

I have an explorer axle under my truck and i plan on write up a how to soon just havent gotten to it.


ok the swap is pretty easy and can be done in a weekend. yes you need to move the spring perches to the top of the housing and set your pinion angle. your shock tabs also need to be moved over and is pretty simple. the tabs need to lined up with the upper shock mount and placed at a 45 deg angle. the easiest way to line up the shock mounts is it simple use the shocks and an angle finder. bolt the tip of the shocks to the top mount then but the bolt in for the bottom mount so you can line everything up. line it up and mark it. then take it apart and weld them in at a 45 deg angle. the hardest part i found with the swap was the brakes. you need 2 passenger side brake hoses so you can use the stock t connection on the top of the pumpkin. so you will need to run new brake lines just to be on the safe side they are cheap mine as well bend up new ones from the caliper hose to the t connection.


also would like to add the 31 spline Level II axles are far and rare to find. also there axle shafts and parts are different than the other axles so finding parts for them will be a pain in the ass and more expensive down the road. I would highly suggest an explorer axle over a level II axle if you plan on doing any off roading with larger tires.

Prices:

an explorer axle can be picked up for around 100 bucks with everything but some places want more. 200-500.

a Level II axle are rare and cost a ton more usually around 600-1000 dollars.

In my swap i have a little over 100 dollars for everything.


i think that covers everything but its 145 in the morning so if i missed something just ask.

Last edited by Downey; 09-21-2009 at 10:48 PM.
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  #25  
Old 09-22-2009, 07:23 AM
Clem Clem is offline
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I am getting to where the Explorer rear is going to have to be worked on soon, moving spring perches, new shock tabs, (at this time I am thinking about a 4 shock setup, I'll post a drawing when I get it figured out, not something new have seen it elsewhere) sway bar modification, (it can't go in the rear, B2 has a fuel tank there) and a metal cover to replace the plastic that is on it now.
I read that these rears come with 2 sizes of axles, 3/4" and 7/8", both with 31 splines, I am not going to assume the Explorer's come with 7/8", but one can hope.
Another observation, I read that the pinion angle for RBV' is 6*, but the 7.5 in my B2 is 7+*, not quite 7 1/2*. So do I set the angle to 7+* or 6*?
I will probably start removing the perches and sway bar mounts this weekend and hopefully get them and the shock mounts welded back on next week.

Ray
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  #26  
Old 09-22-2009, 08:10 AM
Jay FX4 Jay FX4 is offline
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Do you do your own welding?
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  #27  
Old 09-22-2009, 10:05 AM
Downey Downey is offline
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the pinion angle is going to be different for every vehicle. you need a angle finder and put it on back of the tcase flange and what ever it reads you do the opposite on the axle. like my truck the drive line is at -7* so my pinion angle is +7*
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  #28  
Old 09-22-2009, 10:42 AM
Clem Clem is offline
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Yes, I do my own welding, have been in the fabrication/welding profession most of my life, however, I will have to go rent a welder as some sob broke into my shed and stole my Lincoln a couple months ago.
Downey, thanks for the info, I haven't swapped a rear axle in 20 or so years. but I do still have my magnetic Starrett angle finder.

Ray
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  #29  
Old 09-22-2009, 10:44 AM
Downey Downey is offline
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no problem man if you need anymore info let me know
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  #30  
Old 09-26-2009, 07:47 PM
billyjo21 billyjo21 is offline
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ok so i have 2 questions:1 what year and style of ranger have an ls rearend:AND 2 what year would fit my 1996
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