Hi, I am new to this forum, but not new to working on my truck. It seems like repairs on my ranger come in waves. The latest Wave is as follows- filler neck had to be replaced, Bed rot under liner had to get fixed, EGR sensor (DPFE) replaced, and now my Slave cylinder needs replacement. I might as well replace the clutch and throwout bearing as well according to people I talked to. The thing is places around here want 1000+ dollars to fix this while the cost of parts for me to do it are 340 plus the cost of a transmission jack. My question is how hard can this be? I have the Chiltons for this truck and I have done lots of repairs already. Is there any reason why I should be hesitant on doing this? I figure I should get myself an impact wrench to do this job and a transmission jack from harbor freight. Or maybe I won't need those tools? Anyone tackle this before? Tips tricks suggestions? I'm scared of bunging up my transmission which will cost some $$$$

4.0 V6 4x4 Supercab

I wouldn't be afraid to do it, if I were you. I've been told that you can use some simple tricks to lower the tranny yourself. A floor jack and some chains should do it. Or some ratchet straps. Just lower it with the jack and roll it out. I've also been told that you can use some 2x4s on one side of the frame, and rest them on the ground on the other end. Support the tranny with the floor jack. As you lower the tranny, it will slide down the boards and out from under the truck.

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1999 Ranger, Ext Cab
2WD, 2.5 L Sport, 5 speed, 4.10 axle
Bedliner, Tonneau cover, no mods, 185,000 miles

I use a 10x10x16 chunk of pressure treated wood with a V cut into it as my transmission cradle attachment ontop of my standard floor jack.

You gave us good info on your rig........except year. Depending on year of truck, the flywheel is held on with external torx head bolts....E12 is the size socket you'll need. That is if you'll be doing it the right way with a flywheel resurfacing.

I did my first clutch swap and used the Chiltons/Haynes manual.....haven't touched that thing since. lol.

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'01 XLT disguised as a '03 Fx4 Level II.

It is a 2001 model and thank you for the great info. I am encouraged to hear others have done this themselves. I doubt that the mechanic I talked to had a flywheel resurfacing in his estimate. If that is the right thing to do then that is what I want to do. Also while I'm there I want to clean up any grime, rust, road salt etc. and give the under body a royal treatment of fluid film. To pull the flywheel would require removing the starter correct? I don't mind spending some extra time under there to get everything right.

Thanks!

Not a problem man.


This was actually taken like 2 hours ago....




Pictured is the chunk of wood I use when jacking up the trans to get the x-member out, then lowering it down. I muscle the trans back in for install though.

Since it's a 4.0, the exhaust Y-pipe needs to be removed. The cat-intermediate pipe removal helps in the room to work department, but isn't required. Hit up your local Ford dealer for the Y-pipe to cat-pipe gasket...$10. Use TC-11 or some sort of rust eater/lubricant on the exhaust nuts a few days or few hours before you attempt to attack them with the ratchet. If you happen to snap any of the studs on the Y-pipe to cat-pipe, no worries. Just beat 'em all out when the cat-pipe is out and get 3- 3/8x1.25 bolts and use those to fasten that joint on assembly. On the manifold studs, I always brush on anti-seize since I seem to be in there all too often. lol. Plus having those manifold studs snap is not a fun job to fix. Getting at those manifold to Y-pipe nuts, I use 2 6" extentions on a 3/8 ratchet, a universal, and a shallow 15mm socket.

If your clutch kit doesn't come with the clutch quick coupler disconnect tool, no biggie. You can un-clip it using two small flat-head screwdrivers and some imagination. Little plastic sleeve goes in, line goes in, then pull out. But telling you from experience, NOTHING beats having the proper tool. They only run about $5 at the auto parts store. Some clutch kits come with them.

DONT FORGET A PILOT BEARING!!! This is the bearing the input shaft of the transmission rides on in the flywheel. Speaking of flywheel, resurfacing isn't required, but it sure is a good idea to have done that way you're starting with a blank slate. Machine shop would be the place of choice and it only costs about $20-30 to have done. Quite a bit cheaper than a new flywheel. Also, remember to get the E12 socket. I stumbled upon those and used what I could to get the flywheel off.....8mm, 5/16, 7mm(beating them on and breaking every one of them), then eventually a die grinder to cut the bolt heads off. And let me tell ya, those bolts are NOT cheap! 8 bolts x 3.50 from Ford = $28!

For your un-bodylifted application, it may be a good idea to pull the trans tunnel inspection cover out to gain access to the top bellhousing bolts. Honestly, it's been so long since I dropped one out of a stock truck, that I just can't remember how I did it back then. lol. Possibly let the trans hang with the x-member out and they'll be right in your face and in perfect reach for that 13mm. PS: Ratcheting wrenches are AWESOME!!!!

When bleeding the new slave, I've had good luck with topping off the reservoir, leaving the cap off, opening the bleeder, then pump the pedal only about 3" 3 times, top it off again, 3 small soft pumps again, watch the fluid dribble out onto the floor. Let it dribble til the reservoir goes down to just above "full level", then close the bleeder. Put the diaphragm back on, screw the cap, now pump the pedal with your hand slowly and softly then it'll get firm and you're good to go. Those little pumps really speeds up the gravity bleed process. I just did it like 40mins ago so it's really fresh on my brain. lol. Oh...and this way is a 1-man bleeding operation as well.

While bleeding, it'll get on the Y-pipe so when you start it up there will be burning smell of brake fluid. Nothing to worry about.





Alright....I hope you don't mind I gave you a typefest of tips and tricks that the Chilton's/Hayne's doesn't cover at all. I know I coulda used it when I first attacked my truck 5-6 years ago. Got any questions while you're on the job or just preparing for it, don't hesitate to ask.

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'01 XLT disguised as a '03 Fx4 Level II.

Wow. Fx4wannabe01 I thank you for saving me the hassle of finding out all that on my own. You just saved me many trips to the auto parts store and more importantly some head scratching while my time is wasting away. Joining this forum was a good decision. Your truck looks sweet. It is the same color as mine. I have 4.10 gears so I may do something similar in the way of a lift to get me through the snow and mud. I'm hoping to get this repair done in a couple of days time and not let it become a week worth of work. I do have a borrowed vehicle to use in the meantime. This will be something I will tackle in a couple of weeks after a bunch of other projects I have going get done. In the meantime I will get some tools and supplies together. Thanks again for the help.

You're just lucky that I actually logged in for once. That and the fact that you're actually listening to the help being given! lol.

Thanks for the truck compliment. She's come a long way since '04. PS: Tires are about the most important thing you can do for a rig. That and a decent stereo. lol.

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'01 XLT disguised as a '03 Fx4 Level II.

I will give an update when I get this done (or while I get this done if I need advice) and talk to you then. Hopefully I will still be a married after all this. Thanks again!

It's finally done! New clutch! I still am married although I feel I should get her some flowers as it took a bit more time than I anticipated. Your advice on those e-12 bolts was spot on. I had the flywheel resurfaced and replaced that pilot bearing. The new Napa slave cylinder is so much heavier, and it had a nice steel throwout bearing built in. The hardest part was the exhaust Y as the hardware was practically welded together. one of the bolts on the manifold unthreaded with the nut still attached. I nearly used up a Mapp gas canister and a can of PB blaster getting those off. I had to grind off the nuts holding the flange together at the catalytic end. I was able to drive one bolt out, the others I could not get, so at the moment I have one bolt holding that together. I am taking it to a shop for that to get fixed. Cursing helped a lot. I tilted the engine by lowering the transmission to get at the two top bolts. Once the transmission was clear the engine just balanced that way without a support jack. Getting the transfer case off was a pita, I used a come a long attached to the hitch receiver to get some tension on the jack as I wiggled and tapped with a dead blow hammer. It had some light rust on the input shaft splines which I think was the culprit. I greased those before reassembly. Once I had the transfer case on the bench I flushed it and changed the fluid. Also I cleaned up the whole area above the transmission and fluid filmed it before getting everything back in. All in all it feels great to get that done myself and I saved about 500 dollars when you tally the parts including a 220 heater to heat the garage I was working in which is nice to have anyway, a transmission jack that I bought from grizzly, and an air ratchet which was handy. The clutch kit, and slave cylinder. I had most of the other tools. including the mapp gas torch which is a must have. My next task is to fluid film the rest of the underbody.

Just for reference for anyone else. The trans can be pulled with out dropping the pipes. You just have to turn the trans sideways. Takes a bit of effort but can be done. If your exhaust bolts are like mine and you cant see them from all the rust, this might be a good option.

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Ball Joints/Upper A-Arms How To
Replace Door pin/bushing
Repair broken dome light tabs
VIDEO OHC Install

off topic but where the hell has shane been?! miss his ugly ass on here!! but serious he knows a lot of crap!! he has saved me a ton of times!

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-1995 ford ranger prerunner, 4.0, 4x4, 5-speed, 62k original miles, 2.5 radflo bypass front and 2.5 radflo triple bypass rear, deavers f23, 4.56 gears front and back, 07 seats, 07 mirrors, 35x12.50 bfg a/t, 4" fiberwerk glass front and rear, eagle alloy rims, 6k hid heads, two 8k hid off road lights, 34" led light bar, bed/roll cage/engine cage, 25 gallon fuel cell, cut and extended beams/radius arms
-2000 ford SVT f150 lightning -SOLD Lifted 2001 Ford Ranger EDGE, April's 2012 TOTM

Turn the transmission sideways? How did you do that? I had it strapped to the jack. suppose I could unstrap it and try it next time (please let there not be a next time!)

two guys and some elbow grease! lol we just had a 3 ton floor jack un-strapped just to help hold it there. Have to stick rag in the shifter hole tho, some lube will come out.

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I just replaced slave, clutch and PP on my ranger.

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Ball Joints/Upper A-Arms How To
Replace Door pin/bushing
Repair broken dome light tabs
VIDEO OHC Install

SHANE

O.k. I don't know who shane is but anyways I'm sure he needs to be worshiped by a smiley
Edit- Duh, Shane is Fx4wannabe, got it now, I'm a bit slow, Thank you very much Shane!

I have one question. which type of clutch did you use? I am setting up to replace mine and the flywheel. I want to get a Kit to save money.

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My Ranger is a 1989 it has over 100,000 miles on it. I am working on a tight budget so the restoration is coming. I will be looking for answers from you about repair issues that may arise.
Mr. David M. Jenkins