I just got OEM clutch or OEM spec clutch. I did get a HD PP tho.

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Ball Joints/Upper A-Arms How To
Replace Door pin/bushing
Repair broken dome light tabs
VIDEO OHC Install

Both the clutch kit and the slave cylinder are manufactured by "Perfection" under the napa "performance proven" line. The clutch kit came with a disconnect tool, and pilot bearing. it seemed like a quality part. I did have to compress the fingers of the clutch and rotated it to compress the springs. I used the truck jack braced under the rear differential to do that as i did not have a press. The disconnect is upgraded. It has a metal clip which replaces the plastic friction sleeve. If you ever had to get that line off again you don't have to push on that plastic sleeve, simply remove the clip.

This is the slave cylinder made by perfection-http://images.buzzillions.com/images_customers/08/18/13984233_101325_full.jpg
notice the throwout bearing above the blue plastic collar

my bearing was the same way on my slave. It did not have the black clip tho, it had the metal inside shit. But the new slave with bearing is alot beefier than the stock setup

__________________
Ball Joints/Upper A-Arms How To
Replace Door pin/bushing
Repair broken dome light tabs
VIDEO OHC Install

Beefier is better for sure the old s.c. seemed wimpy and light weight.

i just had a napa one put in not to long ago with napa everything. slave, throwout. then replaced the rear main seal with a oem.

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-1995 ford ranger prerunner, 4.0, 4x4, 5-speed, 62k original miles, 2.5 radflo bypass front and 2.5 radflo triple bypass rear, deavers f23, 4.56 gears front and back, 07 seats, 07 mirrors, 35x12.50 bfg a/t, 4" fiberwerk glass front and rear, eagle alloy rims, 6k hid heads, two 8k hid off road lights, 34" led light bar, bed/roll cage/engine cage, 25 gallon fuel cell, cut and extended beams/radius arms
-2000 ford SVT f150 lightning -SOLD Lifted 2001 Ford Ranger EDGE, April's 2012 TOTM

Hmmm, My rear main seal was not leaking so I did not replace, maybe I should have? would not be a bad thing to consider replacing while you're there.

^^^ I replaced mine. figured might aswell since the trans was out!

__________________
Ball Joints/Upper A-Arms How To
Replace Door pin/bushing
Repair broken dome light tabs
VIDEO OHC Install

I should have replaced it. Hindsight is 20/20, if it ever leaks at least I know how to get to it.

I've seen the same kits at Advance Auto parts, and they list Perfection as the manufacturer. It seems like most people here seem to like the kits and they work pretty well, easy to install, etc.

Any comments otherwise?

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1999 Ranger, Ext Cab
2WD, 2.5 L Sport, 5 speed, 4.10 axle
Bedliner, Tonneau cover, no mods, 185,000 miles

Not much except take your time check your work. I found that stepping away for a break while I was frustrated with a particular bolt helped. Concentrate on one step at a time and put hardware for each part in labeled ziplok bags, there is nothing worse then missing hardware during reassembly. Good luck and have fun! Thank you everyone for the helpfull advice on my project!

Greetings all! New to this forum and glad to see I'm not the only one who's had a few issues resolved here. Now, here's my issue...

6 months ago I replaced the clutch in my 2000 Ranger, 3.0L Trailhead Package. The plates were worn out so it was time. Now, ever since then I have had a leak somewhere. Narrowed it down to the slave cylinder. Yesterday I replaced the master cylinder and today I replaced the slave cylinder. Now, while bleeding it, I have gotten all of the air out but it is not building up ANY kind of pressure. It's not even giving me enough to attempt to change gears. I don't have any leaks, I have tried several times to bleed and nothing. Please help!!!

Jimmy

I've had a strange new symptom develop with my clutch. I know the slave needs to be replaced, and it's getting harder and harder to get in 1st and reverse. On long drives, an hour or two, at highway speeds, the clutch tends to get really stiff. I was driving at 65-70 mph on the highway and didn't have to shift for about 2 hours. When I got off the highway and stepped on the clutch to downshift, the pedal was really stiff. So I wasn't sure what might be causing this behavior. At first, I thought that maybe it was some weird thing with heat from the tranny causing an air bubble to expand and increasing pressure in the line. But then, I figured that air would be more compressible than clutch fluid, so I dismissed that theory.

I was reading a related post that said this could be an indication that the master cylinder (MC) is starting to go. I usually have to pump the clutch a couple of times when this happens. But it only happens on long drives. Not on my normal daily commute to work, because I shift more frequently.

Any thoughts? I'm getting ready to do the slave and clutch soon, so should I be looking at the MC too?

Thanks for the help.

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1999 Ranger, Ext Cab
2WD, 2.5 L Sport, 5 speed, 4.10 axle
Bedliner, Tonneau cover, no mods, 185,000 miles

Check the fluid. Is it black or is there some sediment in the container?

It's not black, but it is discolored. I wouldn't call it sediment, but there was a small amount of residue in the fluid. You could tell it was dirty, but not black. I was going to bleed it last fall, and I didn't get a chance before it got too cold.

I was confused by the bleeder screw. It seemed to wiggle, like it's on a rubber stem. The bleeder screw was fairly well rusted and I was concerned that if I tried to loosen it, I might break it or cause a leak. So I figured I'd just replace the slave and flush the system at the same time.

I was thinking that the slave is going bad because it's tougher to get into 1st and Rev. Do you think that the bad/old fluid might be the primary cause? Now that the weather is warming up, it's time to tear into it.

Thanks.

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1999 Ranger, Ext Cab
2WD, 2.5 L Sport, 5 speed, 4.10 axle
Bedliner, Tonneau cover, no mods, 185,000 miles