Is there any special tools required for this? I have to replace my rear u-joint as well as the rear pinion seal this weekend, and since I have never done this on a Ranger, I was wondering if there was anything "special" I had to get as far as tools go. Thanks!

Rafal

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You will need an old beam style torque wrench rated in inch pounds, to measure the turning torque of the diff. before and after install. I know a lot of people don't check this spec. and say it's not important, but when It comes to the my rear end I don't mess around. lol. Also in addition to the new seal a new crush sleeve should be used.

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2003 Ranger FX4 level II. 3" BL, 33x12.50 Goodyear Dura Tracs, Custome front and rear bumpers with winch hookups, bed mount full size spare, Electric fan, and of course a glasspack.

thanks, I was planning on replacing the crush sleeve as well. I have a press in my garage so the u-joint should be cake, I just wanted to make sure the Ranger didn't have something weird with it. I've done seals and such on my lightning before so i have an idea of what I'm doing.

Rafal

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hey man how do u go about putting in the new crush sleeve, and do you really need to do that step or just do the seal and see if it leaks then. my truck only has 5x,xxx miles on it so im suprised my pinion seal is leaking already but owell. and basically do you just drain the fluid, mark the location of pinion flange and driveshaft flange. then remove driveshaft bolts and move it to the side, then mark pinion flange orientation on the housing of the diff. then mark the nut orientation on the pinion stud, and then the pinion stud orientation to the pinion flange. then measure the depth of the stud from the nut. the remove the nut and count how many turns it took to get it off, then hit the pinion flange off the pinion. then finally remove the pinion seal, install new seal, the put the flange back on making sure the mark is lined up on the diff housing. then put the nut back on and tighten the number of turns it took to get it off and lined up with the marks you made, check the depth measurement that you took earlier and if all good, then bolt driveshaft back up, refill with fluid and LS additive, and bolt the cover back up. psssh that was alot of typing but does that sound the right way of how its supposed to go??? cause I just nervous about all the talk about having to measure the bearing preload I think is what it is, and all that??

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2006 Ford Ranger Supercab 4x4 XL. 4.0 5spd Removed Mud Flaps, Cranked T-Bars, Dual Alon's Mag Mounts, Billet Grill Inside Added 04-05 Chrome Surround. Shackles, 3 Inch Body Lift, OHC, 15x8 Classic Locks with Chrome Rings & Powder Coated Rings. 33x12.5 Duratracs, Bilstein Shocks, UltraGauge, James Duff Traction Bars.

To Come: Stock Square Fogs, Offroad Lights, Hurst Shifter, Speakers, and Stock Headunit With Aux Plug.... maybe a few other things haha