Front gear ratio change

Broncoholic · #1 12-14-2018, 12:39 PM

How does one change the gear ratio for the front drivetrain
In a 99 Ranger 4x4?

Dirtman · #2 12-14-2018, 12:44 PM

By installing different ring and pinion gears.

tomboy · #3 12-14-2018, 03:37 PM

Probebly not as easy as the rear, they have to be set up, and changed the front gear ratio and not matching it with the rear will cause problems.

Broncoholic · #4 12-16-2018, 01:11 PM

Sorry guys I should have added more info.
I assume the front carrier should be pulled out to do the
R&P? What gear ratios and types of lockers are available?

Jimmyspy · #5 12-16-2018, 04:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Broncoholic

Sorry guys I should have added more info.
I assume the front carrier should be pulled out to do the
R&P? What gear ratios and types of lockers are available?

Locker options for the d35 SLA are pretty limited. Aussie makes a “lunchbox” style auto locker for it. I believe lokka makes one as well. The issue with a front locker, especially the “automatic” kind that lock when torque is applied, is that they put a lot of strain on the CV joints, which are already the weak link in the front end. Torsen makes a limited slip differential for the d35 SLA that won’t put as much strain on the CVs as a locker would. It’s also more expensive.

Ring and pinion options are pretty wide. You go all the way up to 5.12:1 I believe (not that you would ever want to on that axle).

Also, to clarify, the front needs to be geared the same as the rear.

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Broncoholic · #6 12-17-2018, 08:24 PM

The plan is to use a full width 9" and full width D44 TTB to get the tires out further (fiberglass fenders and bedsides).
From reading on this site, the mounting tabs are in a different location on a Bronco or F150 TTB from say a 97 Ranger style TTB.

I would think cutting off the attachment points on the TTB axle and move them to the correct location might work?

Is the 99 frame the same as a 97 where the TTB can be attached properly? Will the t-case line up? Sorry for all the questions.
I'm now curious if a 97 Ranger is a better starting point?

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Thought I'd also mention that were looking for as much wheel travel in the front using coil overs and a 3 or 4 link. Need somewhere around
18"+.

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The plan is to use a full width 9" and full width D44 TTB to get the tires out further (fiberglass fenders and bedsides).
From reading on this site, the mounting tabs are in a different location on a Bronco or F150 TTB from say a 97 Ranger style TTB.

I would think cutting off the attachment points on the TTB axle and move them to the correct location might work?

Is the 99 frame the same as a 97 where the TTB can be attached properly? Will the t-case line up? Sorry for all the questions.
I'm now curious if a 97 Ranger is a better starting point?

Jimmyspy · #7 12-17-2018, 08:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Broncoholic

The plan is to use a full width 9" and full width D44 TTB to get the tires out further (fiberglass fenders and bedsides).

From reading on this site, the mounting tabs are in a different location on a Bronco or F150 TTB from say a 97 Ranger style TTB.

I would think cutting off the attachment points on the TTB axle and move them to the correct location might work?

Is the 99 frame the same as a 97 where the TTB can be attached properly? Will the t-case line up? Sorry for all the questions.

I'm now curious if a 97 Ranger is a better starting point?

----------

Thought I'd also mention that were looking for as much wheel travel in the front using coil overs and a 3 or 4 link. Need somewhere around

18"+.

----------

The plan is to use a full width 9" and full width D44 TTB to get the tires out further (fiberglass fenders and bedsides).

From reading on this site, the mounting tabs are in a different location on a Bronco or F150 TTB from say a 97 Ranger style TTB.

I would think cutting off the attachment points on the TTB axle and move them to the correct location might work?

Is the 99 frame the same as a 97 where the TTB can be attached properly? Will the t-case line up? Sorry for all the questions.

I'm now curious if a 97 Ranger is a better starting point?

The TTB is a different animal all together from the d35 SLA.

None of the required brackets on the frame side (pivot brackets, radius arm brackets, coil buckets, etc.) were carried over to the 98+ frames, so those will all need to be added/fabricated. The front crossmember will also need to be removed (and replaced with something) as it will get in the way of the TTB.

Why the desire to switch to the TTB? If long travel 4wd is your goal, then why not stick with the SLA suspension. Vegas Desert Fab and BTF both make long travel “kits” for it. If you just want a capable trail rig, a solid axle will be about the same amount of work (perhaps slightly less) and will out perform the TTB.

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Dirtman · #8 12-17-2018, 09:02 PM

How does a thread start with this....

Quote:

Originally Posted by Broncoholic

How does one change the gear ratio for the front drivetrain
In a 99 Ranger 4x4?

And end up in a discussion about building a one off full custom baja front end? Seems like quite an information gap between the two...

Broncoholic · #9 12-17-2018, 09:58 PM

Yeah, I've seen their coilover with longer control arms and CV's but they want $5K... For that price I would want more than a 8" stroke coilover which looks doable with a taller hoop.

Jimmyspy · #10 12-18-2018, 06:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Broncoholic

Yeah, I've seen their coilover with longer control arms and CV's but they want $5K... For that price I would want more than a 8" stroke coilover which looks doable with a taller hoop.

BTF’s kit is $2,800 ish, but you supply the coilovers and shock hoops.

8” of movement at the coilover is 14” of movement at the wheel, which is a ton of travel.

It’s up to you, but I would think SLA long travel would be an easier path than trying to setup up a non-TTB truck to run beams. Plus, I have no clue how much travel you get out of the F150 beams, but I seriously doubt it’s 14” at the wheel.

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Broncoholic · #11 12-18-2018, 05:18 PM

Thanks for the link! It does look more affordable and I can make all
the tabs, hoops, steering linkage etc.

They also have a 18” travel race setup for $6K then add the cost of coils and bump stops.
Super spendy but looks awesome!